wbrooks63

The rear end on my ‘88 (convertible) wants to step out over bumps and I already have a new set of KYB Shocks, but am considering replacing the Panard Bar and LCA at same time. I am looking at some cost effective alternatives (cheap) I see on Ebay. Has anyone installed/used these? I’ve already replaced bushings to the stock bar and nothing looks loose, may be due to convertible body flex too. I have a ‘89 convertible too and does not act like this.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

If your car is lowered or has sagging springs you'll need to make sure you buy an adjustable unit. What is your budget? Founders, BMR, UMI and others make affordable options.

Firechicken82

If you're interested I have a set of older Lakewood LCAs in awesome shape. They may have 1000 miles on them. A set of LCAs and a panhard bar should get you pretty solid. How are your springs?

DaveyDug

iTrader: (3)

I put Founders non adjustable Panhard bar and LCAs on my '89. Tightened things right up.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

LCAs and Panhard bar won't make any difference to that. Won't fix it.

Note that I DID NOT say "don't upgrade them", "you don't need them", "don't do that", or ANYTHING ELSE of the kind. Please keyboard warriors, don't accuse me of any such. What I DID say is, those parts will not address that symptom.

Without knowing exactly what's meant by "step out", usually the things that help that the most are, springs & shocks. Wore-out saggy ancient stock springs won't control the unsprung weight of the axle properly, and shocks being the main part responsible for damping bouncy behavior, would be the very first thing I'd look at.

wbrooks63

I agree and already have new shocks. Just asking if replacing these units, at same time, would improve what prob is old / worn bushings and shocks. Even tho the car only has 108K miles, it’s still 35+ years old. Before I bought this car in 1988 (own since new) I had a ‘85 t-top and that camaro would shake more than the convertible going across RR crossings and such. The rear springs were actually replaced ~1-2 years after I got it by dealer as it was bottling out with passengers in the rear seat, no problems since then. Still looks to sit correctly/level and I don’t plan to lower the car. I’m not really looking to auto cross but looking to get back to new or better ride / handling quality.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

What I'm about to tell may SUCK, butt that doesn't change the message.

Just that something is "new" doesn't automatically mean that it's "perfect".

In the case of shock absorbers, their damping needs to match the properties of the spring/mass systems they're supposed to be damping. Even "new" shocks mismatched to the springs can be inadequate. Specifically, stiffer springs tend to require shocks with MUCH more damping than stock; and since there are acoupla different "levels" of KYB shocks, if yours are the near-stock ones, they may not be right. If you've replaced the springs, it might help to know what you put in there.

Yes "old / worn bushings" are a problem. Butt again, not likely the cause of the rear axle bouncing out of control. Keep in mind also, the main "bushings" in the rear, are in the LCAs; and if you replace the LCAs with something better, they'll come with new bushings anyway. LCAs are CHEEEEEP. I have the Lakewood ones with square tubing and poly bushings, and with occasional greasing, they've lasted me since the early 90s. These I think they were. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-20140 There are other various similar parts available from many sources: you can check the board sponsors, Summit/Jegs, your local speed shop, etc. Keep it simple: "adjustable" is "nice" butt not necessary; rod ends, the same thing; avoid the ones that have a triangular brace kind of deal, they are STRICTLY for drag racing ONLY and do n ot work well on the street.

You may also find that just replacing all the sway bar parts back there will help. Get poly from Prothane or Energy Suspension; again, board sponsors, mail-order, speed shops, even AutoZone carries some of them. Measure your bar (will probably be a metric #) and get the next smaller SAE size bushings that matches. E.g. if you measure 24mm, that works out to about .944", which is slightly greater than 15/16"; get 7/8". The end links will probably want to be 2¼" by the way they're measured which is the length of the tube in the middle.

If those things don't help, replace the shocks.

kestell123

Just my two cents, The most improvement you can make on the 3rd gen verts is subframe connectors .They were too flexable new and just get worse as they age.If you can afford it get the outer and inner Alston styles.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Very true. As far as improving the apparent ride quality, and overall tightening up the car.

However, they won't cure a problem of loss of traction over bumps. And, convertibles can't use many of the common ones in the marketplace, because the factory already pretended to reinforce the unibody on them, and that interferes with the aftermarket ones.

But yes: they are absolutely a most worthwhile addition. Just, not likely to have much of an effect, let alone a cure, for this particular complaint.

Firechicken82

I totally agree w all the points made. But it's a slippery slope. I started w stock parts and moved to poly bushings in stock parts. Then all not stock parts w poly bushings and now some roto joints, inboard and outboard sfc's, all the fancy powder coated parts blah, blah, blah. I love the way the car drives. Will I like it when I'm 55? Who knows. Something to think about is, do you wanna fix it or mod it. If you mod it, how far do you wanna go. If you tighten up the rear, now will the front feel loose? It's all down hill from there!