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As I was saying, I have installed the Spohn Spherical sway bar ends and the greasable bushings. The install was very easy, did not have to drop the sway bar, which is hollow, BTW. Biggest pain was taking the wheels off, having a bad back, its tough to work with something so bulky and heavy.
Here are photos of the install.
Thanks for your interest,
Louis
Last edited by Ct1987; 08-06-2019 at 07:36 PM.
Reason: Re post.
Yeah, leaving it up for less than 2 days isn't a long time. Who cares if no one posts? I put up stuff other people don't show interest in, but the post gets read.
As I was saying, I have installed the Spohn Spherical sway bar ends and the greasable bushings. The install was very easy, did not have to drop the sway bar, which is hollow, BTW. Biggest pain was taking the wheels off, having a bad back, its tough to work with something so bulky and heavy.
Here are photos of the install.
Thanks for your interest,
Louis
What made you decide to go this route instead of traditional sway bar end links?
How well do they work vs The energy Suspension ones?
I autocross my 92 and I keep killing poly end links.
They get all deformed easily.
Hi McLovin, I just installed them last week so I have no experience with them yet. I am sure they will perform better than the stock. They are very sturdy and will not bend as the original ones do.
I'll have to pick some up.
$155 is low enough to try something out.
The front links are at a weird angle and never line up.
Even the aftermarket a-arms put the end links in different positions.
I'll have to pick some up.
$155 is low enough to try something out.
The front links are at a weird angle and never line up.
Even the aftermarket a-arms put the end links in different positions.
Love your handle. ............The ends will line up perfectly when finished. My suggestion to make the install easy, remove front wheels.
Loosen the two bushing brackets on the bottom of the front end but don't take them off. Remove one side link at a time. To install the new one. mark the threaded rod and loosen the locknut off and take it apart .This will make it easier to install. This step eliminates the removal of the sway bar. It will be obvious how it will go together. fasten the black bottom part first. Its a very large locking nut, so you will need something like an adjustable wrench to hold the bottom black piece as you tighten. Its real hard to tighten the large bottom nut.
Once you have both ends replaced. then take off the bottom brackets. There will be enough room to remove the metal bracket and then slide the bushings out . The kit Comes with a special grease for the poly bushings. When you are finished, grease the bushings using the zerks,being careful not to bend them.
As I was saying, I have installed the Spohn Spherical sway bar ends and the greasable bushings. The install was very easy, did not have to drop the sway bar, which is hollow, BTW. Biggest pain was taking the wheels off, having a bad back, its tough to work with something so bulky and heavy.
Here are photos of the install.
Thanks for your interest,
Louis
Ct1987 How are these working out for you? I'm curious as to how these would change the character of the sway bars.
Ct1987 How are these working out for you? I'm curious as to how these would change the character of the sway bars.
Hi Bandit, I did not have much chance to drive the car before the cold weather set it. Car has been in storage since November, The little driving I did do, proved to me that the steering was more steady, car behaved nicely on a fast turn. For the small investment, it is well worth it.. My next addition to the front end is the Wonder bar, and I will call it quits at that.
Hi Bandit, I did not have much chance to drive the car before the cold weather set it. Car has been in storage since November, The little driving I did do, proved to me that the steering was more steady, car behaved nicely on a fast turn. For the small investment, it is well worth it.. My next addition to the front end is the Wonder bar, and I will call it quits at that.
I'm curious how these are working for you. Last spring I installed these on both the front and rear along with the Spohn 1.375" Front and 1" rear bars. I thought the rear bar lined up a bit weird, but couldn't get it to line up the way I thought it should assumed I was nuts and cracked on with it. At the same time I replaced all of my suspension (caster camber plates, shocks struts, strut tower brace... blah blah blah), had Subframe connectors installed, and replaced all the steering components.
I didn't get to drive it much (cause the car has no top and Florida likes to rain - a lot) so when I finally did get to drive it again I was hearing all sorts of new noises from the road I hadn't heard before, because... holy chassis stiffness batman. Fast forward a bit and I had one reoccurring noise that seemed very unhappy/unhealthy. It was a binding/crunching kind of noise and only when the suspension would shift in the rear, or when the I would turn full lock to lock on the steering and try to turn. For a while I chalked it up to having replaced everything with spherical ends (first experience), and I was just going to have to use dry lube constantly. While this quieted the front down, it did little to nothing for the back end.
After investigation I discovered I had installed both the front and rear links incorrectly - apparently the position you mount the spherical side matters (though I don't remember getting any instructions from Spohn on this so I installed it as per the picture on their site.... which apparently was wrong). From what I've found the front links need to be installed on the a-arms so that they would fall toward the wheels (if they were not attached to the sway bar), and rears should swing toward the front/rear of the car. Once I changed the position the noise in the front of the car vanished and hasn't returned. The rear on the other hand is a different story, which leads me to my inquiry.
After digging I discovered the reason it looked weird when I installed it is because the car has apparently been lowered. When I bought the car it had big chrome ghetto rims on it (not knocking, just what we call them), and slowly they grew on me so I never changed them. While I don't know for certain I'm guessing to fit them they lowered the car. This pushes the rear bar holes forward (toward the front of the car) and causes a pretty aggressive angle for the links. So much so the washers that hold the poly bushing are rubbing on the sway bar at rest.
Does anyone know if there's a end link relocation kit I can buy to move/shift the end-link forward on the body? If there isn't my other option is to cut a new notch on the u-bolt axle clamps so I can shift the bar rearward about an inch. Any one tried this or had this problem?
I'm curious how these are working for you. Last spring I installed these on both the front and rear along with the Spohn 1.375" Front and 1" rear bars. I thought the rear bar lined up a bit weird, but couldn't get it to line up the way I thought it should assumed I was nuts and cracked on with it. At the same time I replaced all of my suspension (caster camber plates, shocks struts, strut tower brace... blah blah blah), had Subframe connectors installed, and replaced all the steering components.
I didn't get to drive it much (cause the car has no top and Florida likes to rain - a lot) so when I finally did get to drive it again I was hearing all sorts of new noises from the road I hadn't heard before, because... holy chassis stiffness batman. Fast forward a bit and I had one reoccurring noise that seemed very unhappy/unhealthy. It was a binding/crunching kind of noise and only when the suspension would shift in the rear, or when the I would turn full lock to lock on the steering and try to turn. For a while I chalked it up to having replaced everything with spherical ends (first experience), and I was just going to have to use dry lube constantly. While this quieted the front down, it did little to nothing for the back end.
After investigation I discovered I had installed both the front and rear links incorrectly - apparently the position you mount the spherical side matters (though I don't remember getting any instructions from Spohn on this so I installed it as per the picture on their site.... which apparently was wrong). From what I've found the front links need to be installed on the a-arms so that they would fall toward the wheels (if they were not attached to the sway bar), and rears should swing toward the front/rear of the car. Once I changed the position the noise in the front of the car vanished and hasn't returned. The rear on the other hand is a different story, which leads me to my inquiry.
After digging I discovered the reason it looked weird when I installed it is because the car has apparently been lowered. When I bought the car it had big chrome ghetto rims on it (not knocking, just what we call them), and slowly they grew on me so I never changed them. While I don't know for certain I'm guessing to fit them they lowered the car. This pushes the rear bar holes forward (toward the front of the car) and causes a pretty aggressive angle for the links. So much so the washers that hold the poly bushing are rubbing on the sway bar at rest.
Does anyone know if there's a end link relocation kit I can buy to move/shift the end-link forward on the body? If there isn't my other option is to cut a new notch on the u-bolt axle clamps so I can shift the bar rearward about an inch. Any one tried this or had this problem?
Hi ,
I only installed the front ones and they have been terrific. I am very happy with the install.
08-04-2019 | 06:04 PM
