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Re: BEWARE moog idler arms, and other generic brands - they are incorrect for these c
Hi, 3rdGenGuy here.
A few of my subscribers have pointed out that the newer AC Delco idler arms are actually the incorrect geometry. The newer AC Delco idlers match whatever idler arm angle MOOG has been incorrectly making for a while.
I assume it's to fit a wider range of cars.
I ordered a AC Delco: 45C1065 from Amazon.
Thankfully it matches my old AC Delco idler arm. It also matches my Pitman arm angle as well.
So I'm not sure how many bad AC Delco Idler arms are out in circulation, but make sure to check your before installing.
I painted my steering links, so ignore the black paint job.
Re: BEWARE moog idler arms, and other generic brands - they are incorrect for these c
Well damn, I thought I read and got the right one (Ac Delco) and It appeared correct at a quick glance but I didn't think to study it. I just installed all new suspension today. The dang new Moog inner and outer tie rods are too long though. I guess I will have to cut them.
Re: BEWARE moog idler arms, and other generic brands - they are incorrect for these c
Just ordered the McQuay Norris FA1399 from RockAuto and it came boxed in some random brand name box with part # FA1399 written on the box, but thankfully it was the right one!
The drop was 1.5 inches (not the wrong 2 inches like the Moog one) and it had that thick casting line along the edges which usually indicates the right part most of the time.
I think pretty much any idler arm with part # FA1399 should be correct.
Anyways just make sure you follow the center link height setting instructions before tightening up the bolts, I couldn't get my center link high enough like @whitedevilTA with the Moog part because it had too much drop.
On my car, in order to have the center link level I pretty much needed to almost max out the height adjustment even with the FA1399 idler arm to properly level the center link with the front crossmember, even then I barely had any more adjustment left upwards.
I used an app on my phone to act as a digital level and a flat piece of solid steel I had laying around to compare the angle of the center link to the angle of the front crossmember to the closest 1 degree.
This ended up fixing the terrible steering I had at higher speeds.
All good now thanks to this thread, finally!
Last edited by FunctionXY; 05-27-2024 at 12:06 AM.
Re: BEWARE moog idler arms, and other generic brands - they are incorrect for these c
Originally Posted by dixiebandit69
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I just replaced some suspension components on my car, including the idler arm, and I can say this:
THE AC DELCO IDLER AND THE MOOG ARE THE SAME.
I had a Moog arm sitting on a shelf in my shop for years, and because of this thread, I didn't use it and bought a Delco piece from Rock Auto a few days ago.
It was the same part, down to the casting number on the arm (6717-C WN2).
Same shape, same parts kit (why did they only come with one lock-nut when two are required?), etc.
I'm not calling the first poster a liar or anything, but I am saying that now Delco seems to be substituting the part.
Agreed in 2024, just did the same complete Moog (with Moog Idler Arm K6249) steering linkage replacement on all my original GM parts. Mine is an all original 1984 Z28 (48k miles), which was still factory parts before I did the work.
I leveled the centerlink (relay rod) to 1 mm. without any issues.
Last edited by mickey_bigdaddy; 06-10-2024 at 02:16 PM.
Re: BEWARE moog idler arms, and other generic brands - they are incorrect for these c
Originally Posted by FunctionXY
Just ordered the McQuay Norris FA1399 from RockAuto and it came boxed in some random brand name box with part # FA1399 written on the box, but thankfully it was the right one!
The drop was 1.5 inches (not the wrong 2 inches like the Moog one) and it had that thick casting line along the edges which usually indicates the right part most of the time.
I think pretty much any idler arm with part # FA1399 should be correct.
Anyways just make sure you follow the center link height setting instructions before tightening up the bolts, I couldn't get my center link high enough like @whitedevilTA with the Moog part because it had too much drop.
On my car, in order to have the center link level I pretty much needed to almost max out the height adjustment even with the FA1399 idler arm to properly level the center link with the front crossmember, even then I barely had any more adjustment left upwards.
I used an app on my phone to act as a digital level and a flat piece of solid steel I had laying around to compare the angle of the center link to the angle of the front crossmember to the closest 1 degree.
This ended up fixing the terrible steering I had at higher speeds.
All good now thanks to this thread, finally!
Is this what you got? I got this for less than $5 on Rock Auto, but wow this box looks OLD! The arm itself has a little surface rust, so I need to clean it off and paint it. It does have Made in USA stamped on it though.
Re: BEWARE moog idler arms, and other generic brands - they are incorrect for these c
remember the mount on body is slotted for adjustment up or down. even with 600+ BBC's this drag link/center link. is almost 2 times the diameter of the stock GM unit.. was thinking of machining 1/4" off the top if I needed the room.or 1/4" plates on the motor mounts. but in the end everything dropped right in. no mods needed. and 1/4" space from center link. and 1/2" on ea side of pan from lock to lock. this pan is way to fat. for my needs. but was the only Aluminum pan on the market that would fit the stoke and rods of this 615BBC. bolt in unit.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 08-24-2024 at 01:08 PM.
07-26-2020, 03:18 PM
