Ladder bars vs. 4 link..opinions please.
#1
Ladder bars vs. 4 link..opinions please.
The car is a 69 Camaro I'm working on. It's a weekend cruiser, and driven to and from the track. HP level is pretty moderate, just a healthy small block with no power adders.
What would the pros and cons of each be?
What would the pros and cons of each be?
#2
you'd have to back1/2 it either way. i'd go with ladder set up if i was picking and wanted something for the street. if i used the 4 link i'd go with cage, plus a new front SFand all the bracing and a rack stearing set up.
#3
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Your 69 has leaf springs. The easiest setup is a set of ladder bars with a floater kit. You probably won't like them on the street since they'll bind when going over bumps.
Installing a 4-link into your car will require back halfing it. There's no other way to do it. You'll need to completely change the leaf spring system to a coilover system.
Another option is a set of Caltracs. They work with leaf springs and are like having the bottom bar of a 4-link system. NHRA now allows them as traction devices in Stock Eliminator.
Installing a 4-link into your car will require back halfing it. There's no other way to do it. You'll need to completely change the leaf spring system to a coilover system.
Another option is a set of Caltracs. They work with leaf springs and are like having the bottom bar of a 4-link system. NHRA now allows them as traction devices in Stock Eliminator.
#4
Ideally I'd like to just bolt on a set of new springs and caltracs. The car just isn't really gonna be fast enough to really need a full back half
The problems are this. 1. I've been told the front spring mounts have some rust problems. havn't see how bad it is myself..might be able to shore it up easy enough. 2. I'm not sure if the leafs will clear the tires. If the frame is rusted there and I have to move the springs anyway...then ladders sound like an easy and still effective solution. I was cosidering a 4 link..basically because I don't knowmuch about them and thought asking would be a good idea.
The problems are this. 1. I've been told the front spring mounts have some rust problems. havn't see how bad it is myself..might be able to shore it up easy enough. 2. I'm not sure if the leafs will clear the tires. If the frame is rusted there and I have to move the springs anyway...then ladders sound like an easy and still effective solution. I was cosidering a 4 link..basically because I don't knowmuch about them and thought asking would be a good idea.
#5
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,754
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From: Ahead of you...
Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
Jester,
You can get a kid to move the springs inboard in order to run bigger tires or just for the rust damage.
There are fiberglass springs available for those years F-Bodies also, FYI. Takes like 45lbs unsprung off the car.
Neither ladder bars or 4 link is a good idea for a street car.
You can get a kid to move the springs inboard in order to run bigger tires or just for the rust damage.
There are fiberglass springs available for those years F-Bodies also, FYI. Takes like 45lbs unsprung off the car.
Neither ladder bars or 4 link is a good idea for a street car.
#7
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,754
Likes: 7
From: Ahead of you...
Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
A 4 link is not a suspension like a GN or Late model Stang. It is a setup for maximum drag race (straight line) traction, made possible by loading the tires propoerly. 4 link systems do not allow hardly any lateral or vertical movement before binding and causing problems. A ladder bar system allows a lot more vertical motion, but still sux on the street.
Keep those damn leaf springs!
Keep those damn leaf springs!
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