SHOULD I GET 1.75 INCH DROP LOWERING SPRINGS OR STICK WITH STOCK
WOULD LOWERING SPRINGS MAKE IT LOOK BETTER OR WORSE IN YOUR OPINION

POST PICS OF YOUR LOWERED 82-92 CAMARO'S / FIREBIRD'S / TA'S

 

WHAT MY CARS STANCE IS LIKE NOW

 

 

Two questions;

1. What are the roads like where you live?

2. How much do you enjoy repairing urethane ground effects?

 

You think 1.75 inches will make a big difference?

 

I have stock V6 springs (lowered the front almost 2") in the front of my 1983 Z/28 with Monroe Sensatrack front struts, and my '85-'90 front ground effect scrapes constantly on any kind of incline. Rather annoying, really. I'm quite sick of repairing it, to the point that I'm tempted to put my '82-'84 nose and ground effects back on just to regain some clearance.

 

before

after sportline 1.75 drop...would actually not mind about another half inch lower in the front....doesnt make much of a difference....doesnt hit anywhere really..only steep driveways..but can be avoided going slow and sideways. im in north nj

 

I would lower it if you do not mind driving with extra care.

I would stay at 1.5" to 1.75" drop max, but keep in mind, the stiffer the spring/shock combo you run, the less chance of bottoming you will have.

The biggest problem most have is using cut weak stock springs & cheap struts. I also do not like soft progressive springs (Eibach for example) for this reason.

The heavy Moog replacements (cut for desired drop) or aftermarket competition springs make a huge difference. My Firebird is lowered approx 2" & never has bottomed in normal driving.

If you run a good strut (Bilstein, Koni etc.) that has good dampening qualities, it will limit the movement on bumps that cause bottoming. Go cheap here & you will hate a lowered car.

 

I'm measured the rear height on my car going down 0.75" just by me sitting in the driver's seat. So take into factor that the car will always be lower when you're driving it.

Personally, I prefer stock height. I think your blue IROC looks great as is. I like to be able to wash the top of the tire when I wash the car. To be able to see the tread patterns. To wash the wheel well out.

Many people here prefer lowered cars. I don't. To me, your car looks to be the perfect height.

 

If you lower the rear it will bring the front up slightly. Not a lot but it might be enough for you.

 

Tried that. I have Gabriel Hi-Jacker rear air shocks at only 35 psi right now, just enough to not have them completely useless. It's not bottoming out from suspension travel that's the problem btw...It's simple geometry from having a long rear end that close to the ground already on an inclined surface. My car scrapes going 2 mph with no suspension travel at all if the incline is more than 7 degrees. Going in at an angle can help sometimes, but not always an option. Keep in mind my other car is an MR2 Mk1 which is factory stock lower to the ground than many lowered 3rd gens, and it pretty much never scrapes...Shorter nose, different geometry.

 

Your springs hold the car up not the shocks. You can remove them all together and not lower your rear. You would have to swap out the springs to lower it.

 

My car with a 2" drop. The airdam scrapes everywhere..

 

Yes but I have the air shocks as is to keep the rear up slightly up, not to mention I occasionaly use my car as an El Camaro for hauling work stuff. I've had 500 lbs of tile in her before, and thanks to the air shocks, no bottoming out. Besides that, San Antonio roads are no where NEAR adequate to lower anything.

 

You should see Illinois roads...100* temperature fluctuations throughout the year with tons of road salt and a broke state legislature unable to repair roads.

 

Our problem here is they keep diverting the gas tax that is supposed to go to road maintenance for pet projects, and the roads deteriorate. Add to that that South Texas is the most geologically active area in the nation with multiple fault lines and daily tiny earthquakes, and you have a very unstable road base. Then they compound the issue by half-assing the actual construction when they do it with barely adequate base thickness and a slapped on coat of asphalt. Brand new roads here last around 5 years on average before showing heavy cracking and rutting.

 

The first photo is of my 84 Camaro before it was lowered. The second and third pictures were taken a few weeks after it was lowered using sportlines. Going to get the adjustable panhard bar on in the spring along with the relocation brackets etc. I really like the stance the car has now.

 

No offense intended, but if that's an '84 then please please PLEASE take the IROC-Z emblems off...It's bad enough everyone already thinks all 3rd gens are IROCs without adding to the confusion.

 

No offense taken. When it gets repainted I will be shaving all the emblems. It's not an Iroc, it's a berlinetta.

 

Seeing as '85 was the first year of the IROC-Z...

 

If it was my car I would lower it, like I did mine.
First pic is stock ride height , The last two pics are after a set of custom
made springs were installed, 2 in lower in front, 2.25 in lower rear,
I do have to watch steep drive ways and speed bumps,

 

This is nearly identical to how mine looks. I love how it looks and I've gotten so many compliments. I'm running Hotchkiss lowering springs, approximately 1.5" - 2" all around.

I don't have any problems with bottoming out unless I hit a dip in the road that's sudden or a steep incline. Even speed bumps don't pose a problem if they aren't too steep. Only the big hump style ones taht you go over and come right down on cause me problems, and even them it's just scraping on the frame a bit.