Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

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Old 05-03-2011 | 08:39 PM
  #1  
TNT_Z28's Avatar
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From: Minnesnowta
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28
Engine: 355ci, XE262 , 650dp
Transmission: T-5, RAM clutch
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

I need some suggestions for a good set of sub-frame connectors...

any input, suggestions, advice, experiences are welcome...
Old 05-03-2011 | 08:52 PM
  #2  
BlackenedBird's Avatar
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From: Central Texas
Car: GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Aussie 9-bolt/3.27 posi
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

I'm ordering Alston SFCs from TDS on Thursday, for my 'bird.
Old 05-03-2011 | 09:10 PM
  #3  
RaverRacerX's Avatar
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From: Rockville, MD
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: Ellis Juan
Transmission: t-56
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

Originally Posted by TNT_Z28
I need some suggestions for a good set of sub-frame connectors...

any input, suggestions, advice, experiences are welcome...
as long as they connect the 2 sets of frame rails, you are gtg. i personally like the setups that the lca's end up bolting through
Old 05-03-2011 | 09:44 PM
  #4  
TNT_Z28's Avatar
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From: Minnesnowta
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28
Engine: 355ci, XE262 , 650dp
Transmission: T-5, RAM clutch
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

-weld in
-bolt in

is one better than the other?
Old 05-03-2011 | 10:17 PM
  #5  
BlackenedBird's Avatar
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From: Central Texas
Car: GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Aussie 9-bolt/3.27 posi
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

Bolt-ins will wiggle over time & wobble out the holes, making them loose & less effective.

The Alstons I want are bolt-ins, but my intention was for using the bolts for ease of installing them, then welding them in afterwards.
Old 05-03-2011 | 11:52 PM
  #6  
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Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

I bought UMI subframe connectors, they are VERY good quality, are very affordable, the lower control arm bolts through them,, are tucked up nicely, and the fit well with stock exhaust (single cat, not sure about dual...)

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Old 05-04-2011 | 03:26 AM
  #7  
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From: Halifax, N.S.
Car: 89 T/A
Engine: LB9
Transmission: W/C T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi, 3.73 Richmond Gears
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

Check Spohns web site, nice weld in SFCs.
Old 05-04-2011 | 10:13 AM
  #8  
BlackenedBird's Avatar
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From: Central Texas
Car: GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Aussie 9-bolt/3.27 posi
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

Originally Posted by 89transam*pearl
Check Spohns web site, nice weld in SFCs.
"Nice" is a matter of opinion.

I had some. Cost $244 new & sold them for $150. IMHO, bad cantilever design & parts would not have fit together without cutting & being modified.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...pohn-sfcs.html
Old 05-05-2011 | 09:40 PM
  #9  
UnderCover89TBI's Avatar
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From: Manteca,California. Nor Cal.
Car: SOLD IT. Mopar guy only now.
Engine: gone
Transmission: gone
Axle/Gears: gone
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

I use UMI. Buy them through summit to save on shipping. One of the best mod's I have ever done to the car!
Old 05-05-2011 | 09:43 PM
  #10  
calamitascamaro's Avatar
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From: Putnam Valley, NY
Car: 1992 RS 6spd
Engine: Carbed 357c.i.
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Soon to be Strange S60
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

Also use UMI. Damned good quality.
Old 05-06-2011 | 06:21 AM
  #11  
JamesC's Avatar
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Posts: 19,282
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

http://www.globalwest.net/82-02-fire...onnectors.html

JamesC
Old 05-06-2011 | 09:29 AM
  #12  
ASE doc's Avatar
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Posts: 4,337
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From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: SUB-FRAME CONNECTORS

I used South Side Machine subframe connectors. They are made of thick wall square tubing and weld in along the entire pinch weld, fitting tightly into the body at each end and becoming part of the chassis. The LCAs connect to them at the rear. they dont have the K-bars that run to the rear crossmember like the UMIs do. That's the one thing I would improve.
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