jsanders

I'm a firm believer that before you start upgrading and adding performance to any vehicle that it needs to be able to support the new found glory of HP. So my first task on this board was reading up and doing all the research I could on the suspension of these cars. What is a typical part that needs to be replaced, and what can and should not be upgraded. So here is a list of parts that I found should be replaced and or upgraded to make the car not only safer, but be able to handle the new power that will be gifted to it.

Rear LCA Relocation Kit: http://www.spohn.net/ $59.00
Sub-Frame Connectors: http://www.top-downsolutions.com/ $184.00
2x Ball Joints: http://www.summitracing.com/ (Moog) $29.95 each
Rear Sway Bar Bushings: http://www.summitracing.com/ (ES) $30.25
Front Sway Bar Bushings: http://www.summitracing.com/ (ES) $12.50
2x Inner Tie Rod Ends: http://www.summitracing.com/ (Moog) $46.95 each
2x Outer Tie Rod Ends: http://www.summitracing.com/ (Moog) $29.95 each
Idler Arm: http://www.summitracing.com/ (Moog) $74.95
Adjustable Panhad Bar: http://www.spohn.net/ $119.00
KONI Specials (Reds): http://www.koni-na.com/ $585.60 *set*
Eibach Pro-Kit 1" Drop Springs: http://www.motors.ebay.com/ $236.55
Rear LCAs with Poly Bushings: http://www.spohn.net/ $105.00

Total: $1513.70

And with this list that should give you a better than new suspension from the stock options. I have spent a few days surfing the internet and this site for the better prices while maintaining quality products not cutting any corners.

The only thing I could not find on any parts store or even local parts stores was a pitman arm. I have seen the Suspension 101 thread and it shows there is a pitman arm, but all my other sources says there is not. So if there is a pitman arm, where can we find the replacement? If there is not one, can somebody chime in and say if there is or not please.

Also, this build list is for my 92 RS and my strut/spring combination is setup for a light street application while maintaining the proper suspension geometry of the car while being lowered at the same time.

If any of you know of any sites or sources I can get any of the above parts at for cheaper, please let me know. ALL of the prices above are from internet parts stores and vendors. So you can probably get a better deal at a local parts store such as Advanced Auto, Autozone, Pepboys, or O'Reillys.

Thanks for looking and give me your opinions and suggestions.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

The pitman arm is a non-wear item. There is no reason to replace it unless it is bent or you want a nice new shiny one.

As for the Moog parts, you should check out www.rockauto.com. They have great prices and are pretty reasonable on shipping. Also if you search the net you will find discount codes to help you get that price even further down. Another suggestion is to search for the part number in Google shopping and then sort price ascending and you will find some very good prices that way.

camaronewbie

I can save you a few bucks. Unless you are sporting 400+ hp at the track, no need for the LCA's or relocation brackets - that's one of those items that everyone spends money on, when in reality very few people see any difference out of (except a lighter wallet). If you don't see a need for a tubular torque arm, then you don't have a need for LCA's and relocate brackets.

Another thing, and granted this is my opinion. Moog. Everyone talks moog. Moog in these car is standard off the shelf same old stuff that every parts place on the planet carries. So, I assume it's stock quality - let's face it, if it's on the shelf at autozone/advance/oreilly (whom all compete on a best price basis), then it's generally bottom shelf goods.

Want better than stock replacememt, then go better than Moog. I recommend the NAPA parts - they carry two part numbers, one cheaper and one more expensive. The cheaper matches what autozone/advance/oreilly sells (same moog or equilavent stock stuff), BUT the more expensive part numbers are really nice beefy components.

So, take your list, skip the LCA's and relocation brackets, and use that extra $150+ to get better than Moog tie rod ends, ball joints, etc.

The other MAJOR component missing that you should already have anyway - Wonderbar! It's quite necessary and the best piece you can add at all. Grab a junkyard OEM bar from an IROC, or get one from TDS - but you really really need!

Other thing - not as necessary but nice - strut tower brace - I snagged one off ebay about $70, and I could tell some difference after installing it, so it must help box front end.

If you get your list of part numbers complete, and take to autozone/advance and talk to a MANAGER!!, you can special order just about everything from them, usually in store in 48 hours, free shipping to store, no hassle return. Of course you can't get TDS stuff or Napa stuff there, but most of the list they can special order for you, at cheaper than internet pricing.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I'd go with after market strut mounts before adding the STB.

JamesC

jsanders

Allright! Thanks for the advice so far it looks as if I have more shopping/research to do.

jsanders

How big is the stock front and rear sway bar on a 92 Camaro RS? I'm looking to replace the bushings with poly bushings, but there is a bunch of different options for sizes...

jsanders

Never mind I found out about the RPO numbers and mine is a F41: F-34mm R-21mm... Thanks!

jsanders

Spohn seems to carry just about everything I'm wanting to replace. Some of their prices are cheaper, and some are about the same. But they claim to have better quality parts, and I have not read anything bad about their parts. Whats the general consensus on their upgraded parts over stock replacement parts?

camaronewbie

On your sway bar bushings ... NEVER go by the written word! Anyone could have swapped anything in your car at any time. Small set of calipers are cheap, get a set, and measure yourself. Harbor Freight sells a set of calipers for like $10 - well worth it. Or grab a adjustable wrench that opens at least 1.5 inches, and use it to measure. Clean the area right at the bushings well, get mud/gunk/rust off down to smooth metal, then measure.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

I agree - these vehicles are old enough that parts could have changed on the car if you're not the original owner. no telling what the previous did or didn't change

jsanders

Yeah, good point guys I will get under it and do the proper measurements just to be sure.

luckydoghr1

Well, i think my pitman are needs replacing, either that or the gear box. Correct me if I'm wrong but the pitman arm comes off the splined gear box shaft and attaches to the center steering link, right? There is a lot of play where the arm attaches to the splined shaft. In other words the pitman arm will move back and forth on the splined shaft. This was cause a few years back. My Camaro is a drag car and I used to run a TH350 trans in it. The tall 1st gear ratio would launch the front end 4' into the air and then crashing back down. After a while, in video, I noticed that when the front tires landed they would rapidly turn side to side a few times before smoothing out. I've seen lots of cars that wheel stand to this. I cured the wheelie issue by putting a powerglide in the car, but would like to correct the pitman arm - gear box issue........thanks

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I did many of those parts a bit at a time & did notice quite a change in the car...
The only reason you'de need LCA relocation brackets would be if you lowered the car, then that would call for adjustable LCA's and Panhard bar.... Mine were stock... rubber was worn and 1 was bent... so I got some non adjustable LCA's and Panhard bar with Poly bushings, not too expensive... I got spohn frame connectors (get weld in ones), many poly bushings (sway bar, tie ends, torque arm mount, trans mount) a wonder bar, strut tower bar new springs...

Stay away from spohn a arms! I also got new Bilstein struts / shocks and new springs... car rides much different then the worn out car I bought a few years ago...

Rafael

jsanders

I do plan on lowering the car 1" with the Eibach Pro-Kit on some Koni Specials (reds). I would say with how worn my suspension is now I would not be surprised if I was about an inch lower that stock already lol. I do plan on buying everything as I go along, but I'm going to wait and replace everything all at once. Should be a shocker at how the car drives after all of this is done. But since this will be a street car, I have no plans of taking it to the track at all. I think with such a short amount of lowering, I'll skip on the relocation brackets and LCA's this time around.

Also I had plans of buying everything from Spohn, but I found out that O'Reillys has heavy duty replacement parts of everything I need. Lower prices, free shipping, and a lifetime warranty on all the parts. Also through the company I work for I get a discount at O'Reillys as well. My original estimation of $1500 to redo my suspension will be probably closer to $1000-1100 if I go through O'Reillys and get their heavy duty lifetime warranty parts. This was all through the mouth of the district manager today. Also help that Springfield, MO is the headquarters for O'Reillys and the main warehouse is also here. I could have all my parts in 24 ours or less...

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

You obviously have no idea what the LCARBs are for, they are not for strength, they are to restore the anti squat geometry on a lowered car. Ever notice how the rear squats much more with the arms pointing down from the axle to the front? Think about a pole vaulter sticking his pole into the ground to vault over a height. How would he vault easier/higher? With the spot on the ground or up high? Now replace the pole vaulter with a live axle and you have your answer

RoosterC

What did you end up putting in there?

eseibel67

On the front end parts, Moog is the way to go. They have a major design upgrades from stock - check out the bearing on your stock idler arm and then hold the Moog K6249 up against it. Also, Moog uses special metal internally that holds and distributes gease. If you grease them regularily and you don't abuse your car over potholes, Moog front end parts will outlast you.

I've been in the parts game for 25 years. Yes, there are other brands out there that are good, but if you want the best, get Moog. The name is not just hype, you are getting quality for your money.

jsanders

What do you mean? What brand of parts? I have not yet, still buying and getting all the parts in. It will be late summer early fall before I have the chance to do all of this. I have bigger fish to fry like moving into a new house by July 1st. But I'm going with Moog parts just to let you know, I feel with the discounts I'm getting and the lifetime warranty it's the better way to go.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

very much agree. i've sold their parts while at two parts stores and you can see a difference. they also include some neat little features most don't notice - wrench landings to make adjustments/install of tie rods a bit easier, ball joint boots that have a channel for grease to flow to direct away from the wheel, and then all those nice inner working upgrades (gusher bearing, full ball socket, etc).

since they make a good bit of OE parts, they know the compromises that went into making the part originally to meet the price point GM wanted; if you know the weaknesses, its pretty easy to know where additional strength is needed.

jsanders

Well, I went to have everything priced from O'Reillys and even after a discount their price for everything MOOG is a lot more than I thought. Now that leaves me wondering if with the price difference going with MOOG over Spohn is really worth it? The following prices are for:

2x Ball Joints
2x Inner Tie Rod Ends
2x Outer Tie Rod Ends
2x Tie Rod Adjusters
1x Idler Arm
1x Center Link

MOOG (O'Reillys): $492.29 (after taxes; local pickup)
Spohn: $372.76 (after s&h)

Is the MOOG brand that much of a better quality over the Spohn brand?

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

I normally don't recommend competitors, but since we do not yet offer the Moog stuff for the fbodies (and i'm working on it), you can grab all those from Rock Auto for a much better price than. I just did all of those parts (minus the ball joints, already had picked those up locally) for under $275 with discount coupons. I also opted to go with the UMI tie rod adjusters (a little more money) since they are a much beefier design than the stamped metal pieces of the factory design.

jsanders

You're right, RockAuto does have the best prices. I just used the part # look up feature on RA, and used the part #'s from O'Reilly's website. With the above list here are the prices in total:

O'Reillys: $492.29
Spohn: $372.76
RockAuto: $323.28

Where can I find the cupons and what not for RA?? Oh and all the RA parts are MOOG brand parts.

jsanders

And if anybody is wondering what the part numbers for the MOOG parts are, I'll help take the guess work out of it.

Ball Joints: K6145T
Inner Tie Rod Ends: ES2227RL
Out Tie Rod Ends: ES2226RL
Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeves: ES2032S
Idler Arm: K6249
Center Link: DS1049

These should work anywhere, they work on RockAuto.com and the numbers are good for O'Reillys as well.

jsanders

Ok, was able to find a website that gave the cupons for RA and the total purchase went from $323.28 to $307.59 for everything on that list. That is one HELL of a deal if you ask me. And yes that $307.59 is AFTER S&H!!

eseibel67

Outers are ES2226RL, just did them last week.

jsanders

Oh, thanks for catching that!

DeltaElite121

I realize this is an old thread, but this seriously helped me out a LOT (just got done ordering about $1,000 worth of suspension and I would rather just get it all done at once). I've never used RockAuto before, but the price difference is massive to say the very least after comparing between there and everyone else.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

A good start, but I would switch a few things out.

Skip the LCA relocation brackets and idler arm. You really only need the LCA relocation if you go with a deep lowering kit. Like the Sportlines. The Pro-Kit probably isn't any lower than what the car is right now. If the idler arm is working, no need to replace it.

Take the money saved with the above and get the delsphere version of the Panhard bar. Then take the rest of the money saved and get the Koni Yellows instead. I would spend extra for the delsphere LCA over the poly as well. Just as quiet and no wicked snap of the rear end coming around like can happen with poly.