simple: proper tire pressure
#1
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simple: proper tire pressure
Okay, I've done my own engine work, rebuilt my entire suspension, redone my entire interior AND painted my own car, BUT WHAT IS THE PROPER AIR PRESSURE IN A TIRE? I shouldn't even be second guessing myself, but it is in the vicinity of the pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire, right? NOT the automobile manufacturer's recommended tire pressure. My reasoning is, when you go to aftermarket tires, the pressure is specific to tire not the car, as in moving to tires for 17" rims up from 15s. The 17s will have much higher pressure and running 32 lbs would destroy the tire AND rim. Am I right? I only ask because in the past month, I have had two different mechanics at two different shops tell me that I am absolutely wrong and I have actually had to intensely argue my point to the point of almost busting a vein in my head.
#2
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Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
Yer pretty much right on.
Tire pressure is more a function of tire design and the actual application. The tire placard that comes with the car ha the recommended tire pressure for the car with the OEM tires under most normal conditions. Change the type, brand, model or size of tire (or the intended use of the vehicle) from OEM and the best tire pressure may change. For maximum MPG run higher air pressure. For higher speed stability and maximum tire heat reduction run higher pressure. For quicker responsivness increase pressure. For increased traction decrease pressure. For maximum comfort run less. For maximum handling you may need to run different pressures on each axle or even each tire.
Keeping in mind that you asked about larger than stock diameter wheels and tires with short sidewalls, yes pinch flats and rim damage will occur easier at lower pressures. Running near max tire pressure will reduce the likelyhood of this type damage.
Some times you just gotta say "yeh, right, what ever you say" when dealing with run of the mill mechanics or shop workers.
Once a buddy had a "wheel alignment/suspension specialist" at an NTB tell him he should cut off the long things sticking up out of the top of the struts with a hacksaw because they were close to the hood. He was talking about the adjusters on a set of adjustable Koni struts.
Yeh, sure, I'll be sure to destroy a set of high rent adjustable struts dude.
------------------
Tracy /AKA IROCKZ4me
'86 IROC-Z Camaro
"Cogito ergo zoom"
[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited November 18, 2001).]
Tire pressure is more a function of tire design and the actual application. The tire placard that comes with the car ha the recommended tire pressure for the car with the OEM tires under most normal conditions. Change the type, brand, model or size of tire (or the intended use of the vehicle) from OEM and the best tire pressure may change. For maximum MPG run higher air pressure. For higher speed stability and maximum tire heat reduction run higher pressure. For quicker responsivness increase pressure. For increased traction decrease pressure. For maximum comfort run less. For maximum handling you may need to run different pressures on each axle or even each tire.
Keeping in mind that you asked about larger than stock diameter wheels and tires with short sidewalls, yes pinch flats and rim damage will occur easier at lower pressures. Running near max tire pressure will reduce the likelyhood of this type damage.
Some times you just gotta say "yeh, right, what ever you say" when dealing with run of the mill mechanics or shop workers.
Once a buddy had a "wheel alignment/suspension specialist" at an NTB tell him he should cut off the long things sticking up out of the top of the struts with a hacksaw because they were close to the hood. He was talking about the adjusters on a set of adjustable Koni struts.
Yeh, sure, I'll be sure to destroy a set of high rent adjustable struts dude.
------------------
Tracy /AKA IROCKZ4me
'86 IROC-Z Camaro
"Cogito ergo zoom"
- 355 cid
- AFR heads
- Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
- modified SLP runners
- TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
- fully balanced
- Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
- SLP cat-back
- Paxton supercharger
- Nitrous Express nitrous oxide
[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited November 18, 2001).]
#3
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Sidewall pressure is the maximum pressure when the maximum load is on the tire. Sidewall pressure usually says 35 psi.
Typical radial tires with normal loads on them work best around 32 psi.
Get some tire chalk (white grease pencil type). Go to a parking lot when it's empty. Make a heavy line across the tread then drive a short distance across the parking lot. Get out and see where the mark is worn off the tread. On the edges means the tire pressure is too low. In the center means the tire pressure is too high. Don't try doing a burnout or anything. Just a nice gentle straight line drive.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)
Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586
Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Typical radial tires with normal loads on them work best around 32 psi.
Get some tire chalk (white grease pencil type). Go to a parking lot when it's empty. Make a heavy line across the tread then drive a short distance across the parking lot. Get out and see where the mark is worn off the tread. On the edges means the tire pressure is too low. In the center means the tire pressure is too high. Don't try doing a burnout or anything. Just a nice gentle straight line drive.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)
Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586
Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
#4
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Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Sidewall pressure usually says 35 psi.
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#5
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Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
What is written on the tire and what you should run ARE TOTALLY DIFFERENT... If it says max pressure 44 DON'T INFLATE TO 44!
The max I'd run on any tire is 38 PSI... In general, 32 is the universal pressure, I would start there and go up or down from there depending on what I wanted to do with the car, but no real out of the ordinary wear will result as long as you stay within reason.
The max I'd run on any tire is 38 PSI... In general, 32 is the universal pressure, I would start there and go up or down from there depending on what I wanted to do with the car, but no real out of the ordinary wear will result as long as you stay within reason.
#6
There is only one correct tire pressure for a specific tire on a certain car. By this I mean you will find out how wrong you are when your tires prematurely wear out. The manufacturer recomendations are real close. As for tire and wheel changes it should not very real far as long as the vehicle weight is not changed drasticaly. The chalk idea from Stephan sounds like a good starting place. Then periodicaly check tire wear and adjust accordingly.
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