Timmys88Z

I'm tired of this ****, just lost to a 2001 GT twice (beat him once) and I'm tired of babying it off the line.

So what can I do to my car (which is basically stock right now) to make it hook outta the hole without adding slicks??

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Tim Currie

1988 Iroc-Z
-350
-T-Tops
-'Free' Mods

The Score 12/1 and 1 Tie
14.76 @ 91 mph (you figure it out?)
AIM TCurrie1
ICQ 67616089
"Steer with the rear wheels"

Tas

Limited Slip rear, better tires, lower control arms, maybe a better torque arm.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options

[This message has been edited by Tas (edited November 05, 2001).]

ViciousZ

iTrader: (1)

Lower control arms and relocation brackets will help a lot and won't cost you an arm and a leg. Or if you're serious, you could get a set of drag radials. Nitto makes some that last about 12-15K and are sticky as all he11. Plus they're street legal and everything, they even do OK in the rain.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

Norm Peterson

Relocating brackets, and be sure to get the weld-on style.

Norm



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1979 Malibu w/some cornering tweaks and a few other interesting things

Cam28_boy

What's wrong the the bolt on type? Norm Peterson



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1991 Z28 5.7L
All free mods/afpr/hurst lock up harness/flowmasters(off)/lakewood Lca's/accel stock size injectors/msd6A-plugs, ignition coil/k&n/lakewood adjustable panhard rod.
1/4mile 13.7@102. Expected et next outing 12.9@? (with slp 1 3/4 headers and new ported sportsman II heads along with 24lb injectors, adjustable torque arm spohn or bmr)

Timmys88Z

Ok.....

What are they? What brand? How much?

IROCKZ4me

control arm relocation brackets, AKA antisquat brackets:

http://www.spohn.net/index.cfm?fusea...t&productid=11

http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.htm

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/cab.htm

http://www.lgmotorsports.com/page.cfm?id=3&folder=g2


Or try a shorter torque arm

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...589&prmenbr=76

[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited November 05, 2001).]

cy Z28

I would reccomend the www.lgmotorsports.com torque arm. The shorter one's are better for drag racing, but you're really not making the power to need a torque arm. If you don't have posi, get it. Second go buy some Lower control arms. If you want some used ones cheap, e-mail me. I've got a friend that has some for sale.

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Cody "cyZ28" Young
'84 black on black Z28

355, 5-speed (on the way out. What goes back in, ooohh baby!!)
http://www.geocities.com/mustang_tbird/codypage.html

Chad91Rs

Lower control arms
Lowering brackets
Posi
17x11" rims with 315/35/17"s in the rear

This combination works very well for me.

brian89transam

I've read that you should shim your front sway bar on the left side with washers, 4 or 5, they should be placed between the steel sleeve and the two washers on either side that hold the bushings. If you do this you will should see an improvement of almost a tenth in your 60ft times. I haven't tried this though and I am curious to see if and why it works.

IROCKZ4me

I haven't heard of anyone shimming or preloading the front swaybar. Usually if they do anything to it they disconnect the endlinks or remove the whole bar completely to allow more weight transfer to the rear wheels.
If someone is doing this the idea would be to put the weight of the car + the preasure of the swaybar where it will do the most good. Generaly for the best launch you want more weight on the left front tire than on the right front tire. You want just the opposite on the rear, the most weight on the right wheel. It is common to preload the rear swaybar, and/or to install a large oversize swaybar. It is also common to use an airbag inside the right rear spring or in both rear springs with more air in the right side. The reason this helps is because it helps to overcome the natural torsional force created by the torque. This force tries to lift the right rear tire off the ground.


I'm not so sure that I can agree that this car isn't making enough power to benifit from a better torque arm.
If he is having a traction problem then he will benfit greatly from improving the position of the instant center regardless of the amount of horsepower he is making.
While a posi unit is definitely a good thing that he may or may not already have in the car, beleive it or not, it will not make as much improvement as an optimized instant center. Especially if you factor in actual improvement VS $$$ + installation time. Boxed control arms, while a good improvement also can not compaire. Relocation brackets are the best bang for the buck (and allow adjustments), followed by the shorter torque arm.


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Tracy /AKA IROCKZ4me
'86 IROC-Z Camaro
"Cogito ergo zoom"

• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

EFI Performance Club on Yahoo

Norm Peterson

I don't have any problems with the brackets themselves, it's just that bolted connections have a nasty (and somewhat unpredictable) habit of loosening up in service, especially when vibration and impact loading is present. Trust me, you do NOT want anything that starts to act like another pivot point to develop in your rear suspension. You could, however, install the bolt-on brackets and when you were positive that they were properly aligned, weld them in.

Norm

[This message has been edited by Norm Peterson (edited November 06, 2001).]

jethro

What kind of car? And no problem with rubbing, backspacing, what kind of rubber are you running, and what on the front?
Thanks


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Jethro
1987 IROC Z 13.92 and 1.92 60' street tires stock engine

Chad91Rs

Some answers to your questions.
1)91 RS Camaro
2)The only rubbing is on hard dips in the road against the outer wheel well lip since the tire does stick out past the wheel well
3)backspacing is 6" on the 11" rim, with some hammer massaging of the inner wheel well needed
4)Pirelli P7000 Supersport 315/35/17's rear
5)17x8" rims w/ 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1

jethro

Thanks Chad...
I think that's too aggressive for me... I don't want to do any hammering.... LOL. My 1987 IROC is perfect, 25,000 miles on it is all, but I love racing it! I might go a little larger... 9 inch rims prolly... and I'm going to try those Nitto 555's.



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Jethro
1987 IROC Z 13.92 and 1.92 60' street tires stock engine