I've got the knuckle disconnected from everything except the lower control arm... and it just won't come off! (and yes, I've removed the pin and nut)

My service manual says to use tool "J-24292A" to remove the knuckle from the ball joint, but I can't find a picture or description of this magical tool anywhere in the manual or on the web.

Should I just let loose with the hammer, or is this tool really necessary?

 

the tool in question is commonly refered to as a pickle fork, go to any parts store and ask for one and they'll know what you want. some stores rent them but the cost isn't much to buy one and if you do much you'll need one around when the stores aren't open or all theirs are loaned out.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

Michael,
It depends on why you are removing the spindle. If you are replacing the ball joint, then do what ede mentioned above.

However, if you are working on something else, and plan to use the ball joint again (like I did last week when I put springs in my car), do not use the "pickle fork" tool. The Fork is destructive in nature, and at the least it will ruin the rubber seal on the ball joint.

The way I would disconnect the ball joint from the spindle in your case is like this;

1. re-attach the spindle to the strut, so you can let the control arm "hang" from the spindle.
2. Place a floor jack under the control arm, leaving about 1" of clearance between the bottom of the control arm and the top of the jack pad(just in case). Remove the ball joint nut, then rethread it back on about 5 revolutions. This will "catch" the control arm when the ball joint is freed from the spindle. The jack is there for a back up.
3. Now hit the bottom of the SPINDLE around where the ball joint stud is attached. DO NOT HIT THE BALL JOINT, OR THE STUD. Just the spindle. The harder you whack it, the fewer hits it will take to release. It should come loose w/about 4-5 good, sharp blows.
4. Raise the jack untill it hits the control arm then giv it one or two more pumps to relieve the pressure from the ball joint nut on the control arm. Remove the nut completely, and lower the jack carefully. Your spindle is now free of the ball joint.
*be careful of lowering the jack too much and letting the front spring fly out!

[This message has been edited by Tom 400 CFI (edited September 30, 2001).]

 

I did it the same way Tom described. Worked like a charm.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

Just to add to what was said about using a hammer. Use 2. Hold a good sized shop hammer against one side and whack the other side with another hammer. I use this technique for tie rod ends as well.