Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Those with lowered cars please help simple question???????

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Old 09-06-2001, 09:03 PM
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Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
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Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Those with lowered cars please help simple question???????

I am thinking about lowering my car soon. I have stock Iroc springs on there now they let my car hit on every bump which I am sure is becasue of my stock shocks and not the springs themselves. But what I am worried about is my car always seems to die far from home and I have to have it towed all the time. It goes on a flatbed and they always scrape the hell out of my car, the nose and tail pipes, when they pull it up on the bed. This even happens when they use boards to lessen the angle of the bed to the street. If my car does this at stock height wont it be worse when lowered??? and like i said my car is towed ALOT. Any of you lowered guys have this problem when being towed worse than I do? What do you do about it? I dont want my car scraped or ripped up.

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Old 09-06-2001, 09:21 PM
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
yes

My car sits so low that I even have problems getting a jack under it to do routine maintanence. I have to turn the front wheels and slid the jack under the car between the wheel and fender. I've had mine towed after blowing an engine earlier this year and the boom that goes under the front to slid around the front wheels bent up my rad airdam. I was surprised that it actually went under.

If you want the lowered look you must be prepared to deal with the problems that come with it also. The factory put the car at the higher level for a reason. If they came from the factory at that low level everyone would complain.

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Old 09-06-2001, 09:35 PM
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All I can tell you is that when I drove tow trucks lowered cars cost more to tow. I spent 2 hours loading a lowered Toyota truck one day and charged the guy $65 per hour while I was loading and unloading the truck. That's in addition to the towing charge.

If you want to measure things, the front needs to have 4" of clearance for the stinger if it's going to be wheel lifted. IIRC ramp approach angles for most flatbeds is around 15 degrees. Never ever let them tow an F-body from behind, that will rip the nose off of the car if they a pothole or medium size bump in the road.
EDIT: I just noticed your sig pic. Towing from behind will rip the rear louvers off the car. Don't ask me how I know.

If you must lower your car get towing insurance. That way if they damage your car your towing insurance carrier will make them repair it and/or lose all buisness from that company. (That can add up to millions depending on the city the towing company is in.)

[This message has been edited by 87RS402 (edited September 06, 2001).]
Old 09-07-2001, 09:46 AM
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Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 87RS402:

Never ever let them tow an F-body from behind, that will rip the nose off of the car if they a pothole or medium size bump in the road. </font>
Dont worry that will never happen I always demand a flatbed. I did see them tow a 4th gen from behind once. I felt sorry for that guy.

What makes me worry though is even at stock height when the car is pulled off the back of the flat bed the nose of the car scapes the ramp of the flatbed and looks like it is going to rip it off. Lowered and it would be off. Same goes for my tail pipes. Other than towing problems I dont think any bumps around me will be TOO much of a problem if I lower it, just the towing I am worried about.

Which leads me into my next question about handling when lowered. Wait Ill just ask this in a seperate post.



[This message has been edited by john5.7 87Iroc (edited September 07, 2001).]
Old 09-07-2001, 10:23 AM
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
My car is lowered quite a bit, and yes the air dam drags and even folds under itself when being winched up on a flatbed.Someone
has to pull up on the front fender so I can get a floorjack under an A-arm,and after I get it up a couple inches I can put one side on a stand and get the jack under the crossmember.Both of these minor inconveniences are worth dealing with (for me, at least) since the handling is so much better.If you wanna play, you gotta pay.
Just have touch-up paint on-hand to deal with the chewed-up air dam, and a little more routine maintenence will keep you from being towed so often.

------------------
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Old 09-07-2001, 12:42 PM
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Axle/Gears: 3:42 / 3:27
If your car needs to be towed so much, why don't you spend the money on making sure it doesn't brake down? I would rather see a not so cool looking car that runs than a cool lowered car on a flatbed with the nose half ripped off!!

You have a nice looking camaro as it is, don't risk screwing it up.

------------------
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Old 09-07-2001, 06:33 PM
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Mine has only been towed back to the pits 3 times in the last 12 months because of blown engines.
Old 09-07-2001, 07:25 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by john5.7 87Iroc:
... Lowered and it would be off. Same goes for my tail pipes.</font>
I wouldnt worry about the nose or pipes rubbing, it's normal. If you want to see dragging watch a private property impound. I drug a 2000 Acura backwards, in park with the parking brake on, onto the deck. That's dragging.

My advice? Do what you want with the car and get towing insurance. A good driver will be able to get the car on and off without damage regardless of weather or not the car is lowered.
I hate to reccomend them but AAA contract towing companies do alot of lowered cars and are usually prepared for them. It just takes time and alot of lumber to walk the car on and off.
Old 09-07-2001, 08:32 PM
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Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Omega:
If your car needs to be towed so much, why don't you spend the money on making sure it doesn't brake down?

</font>
I dont want to make my car sound like a piece of crap cause its really not. Its just that soo many little things happen. Like one time my brand new coil died on me and I couldnt figure out what was wrong in the parking lot so I had to have it towed home. Another time another brand new part, my radiator, something like a rock
Somehow hit it and broke a hole in it and had to have it towed home. And another time (I hate to say it in this post) but I bottomed out on a speed bump and it ripped my trans drain plug right off of the pan but that was due to stupidity, Higher than normal speed bump, and bad shocks. So its just that I have very bad luck. Maybe I should look into buying a trailer or something . Thanks
Old 09-07-2001, 09:01 PM
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Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt/3.27
My Formula is lowered with Eibach Sportlines and I've had to have it towed on two occassions. The first time was with a rollback that practically ripped the air dam off. The next time I had it towed with the front wheels off the ground without incident. The driver said he has better results with lowered cars using this method.


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Old 09-07-2001, 10:47 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mongoose:
The next time I had it towed with the front wheels off the ground without incident. </font>
Except that your tranny had no lubrication the whole time it was being towed.
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