My front left tire is toed outward, but my inner and outer rods are already contacting each other inside the sleeve. Am I right in assuming that this means they are maxed out? What could cause this and what's the fix for this?

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

You might have a bent steering knuckle. At least that was the case in one car that I know had that problem.

 

They may have done this if the steering wheel wasn't installed correct. Check the other adjuster--is it almost unscrewed all the way. All that matters to the alignment is total toe(if you don't mind the steering wheel being crooked), so you can toe it in with the other adjuster if needed.
This isn't normal, so I would try to figure out what happened. Has the car been wrecked?


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

82camaro, when you say the other adjuster, do you mean the inner tie rod?

I had hit something on that front left side in the past, but had the dealer check it out. They did find a bent steering knuckle, so I had a new one installed. Both of these are Bell Tech's drop spindles (JUST FYI). Even AFTER that, I ordered a complete Baer Brake Kit, which comes built on Bell Tech spindles already. So being on my second set of steering knuckles, I wanna say I can safely rule that out.

About the steering wheel...I am no alignment expert, but I am taking the steering wheel, making sure it is straight, and trying to adjusting my toe. If my steering wheel is my problem to begin with, what's the fix? I thought that the steering wheel only went on one way? It is a Grant, by the way.

I have been living with this prob for a while, and it's finally starting to **** me off!

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

What he means is that if the wheels are tracking straight, but the steering wheel is still crooked, they (alignment people) bring in one side, and open up the other to correct the steering wheel.

 

Try evening up the sleeves on both sides (so that the tie rods are both the same distance apart in the sleeves), and then set the toe completely ignoring the steering wheel. Then go inside, and since it's a Grant, you can take off the 5 bolts/screws that hold the wheel to it's hub and adapter. Then rotate it closer to center (it might be way off). Then adjust the sleeves again to fine-tune the steering wheel to level.

 

The best way I've found to correct this is to center the pitman arm, remove the steering wheel and center it. Then get it aligned. Most 'good' alignment shops will do this for ya for a minimal charge.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

Is centering the pitman arm an easy job? Any special tools needed?

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

[This message has been edited by Omar (edited July 21, 2001).]

 

I dont think its a good idea to pull the steering wheel off and center the steering by removing the wheel and adjusting it to where the car steers straight when the wheel is straight. You'll have different amounts of turns from left to right depending how much you had adjusted it. There's a little notch in the stud that the steering wheel mounts to which depicts center. Mount your steering wheel accordingly to that notch.

 

He has a Grant steering wheel. I've done three of those in three different Camaros. Every one of them was about 35 degrees off-center out of the box (where the stock wheel was straight). The hub mounts to the adapter with three bolts, and the wheel mounts to the hub with five bolts. I think in the factory, they mount the wheel to whichever hole they line up first. Nobody was suggesting to center the wheel depending on the cars tracking. If you go get an alignment at a shop, you'll notice they straighten the steering wheel and lock it (with an expandable tool), then toe the car in.
As far as the splined shaft on the steering wheel column, the steering wheel (stock) or adapter (aftermarket) should only go on that thing ONE way because of the horn wire.
Centering the pitman arm means just to turn the wheel until the arm is aligned with the box. No tools needed.

 

Well, I take that back. That's assuming the pitman arm was centered on the output shaft to begin with. It should be though, unless it was removed and re-installed without marking. If that's the case, you'd need a pitman arm puller (no pickle fork for you bud).