Checking squareness of Iroc before welding in sfc
#1
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Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 94 lt1 modded
Transmission: t 56
Checking squareness of Iroc before welding in sfc
My Iroc has never been in an accident (to my knowledge) It rides fine and tracks straight.
Is there any way to check it out further or do I need to before welding in some sfcs ?
Thanks for the info.
Kory
Is there any way to check it out further or do I need to before welding in some sfcs ?
Thanks for the info.
Kory
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Do some measurements with a tape measure. First, compare the distance from your front wheel to back wheel for both sides. Then compare the distance from RF to LR and LF to RR. Make sure you measure form the same place on all four wheels.
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87 IROC 350, 3:42 Torsen, pocket ported 083 heads, complete Edelbrock exhaust, Most free mods, Most little mods, aluminum d/s. Edelbrock STB, SSM sfc's, boxed rear suspension pieces, urethane bushings everywhere.
Stock cam, chip, runners, base, and trans
13.94@103mph, 2.25 60'
In the works: ported SLP runners, ported base, Xtreme Cam, homemade suspension pieces, and 27x10 Hoosiers.
Goal: 12.999
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87 IROC 350, 3:42 Torsen, pocket ported 083 heads, complete Edelbrock exhaust, Most free mods, Most little mods, aluminum d/s. Edelbrock STB, SSM sfc's, boxed rear suspension pieces, urethane bushings everywhere.
Stock cam, chip, runners, base, and trans
13.94@103mph, 2.25 60'
In the works: ported SLP runners, ported base, Xtreme Cam, homemade suspension pieces, and 27x10 Hoosiers.
Goal: 12.999
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You would take it to a frame shop.
Those guys have jigs made out of huge beams that they bolt or chain the car to, and pull the chassis with big hydraulic rams. They have all the measurement eqpt and body specs. In fact, I would recommend having one of them put your SFCs on, because that way you can be certain that the car is square and level. You can get reasonably close with a tape measure, but to get them on there really right, that would be a whole lot smarter. Since that's their regular sort of business activity, it doesn't cost much either.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Those guys have jigs made out of huge beams that they bolt or chain the car to, and pull the chassis with big hydraulic rams. They have all the measurement eqpt and body specs. In fact, I would recommend having one of them put your SFCs on, because that way you can be certain that the car is square and level. You can get reasonably close with a tape measure, but to get them on there really right, that would be a whole lot smarter. Since that's their regular sort of business activity, it doesn't cost much either.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
#6
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Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 94 lt1 modded
Transmission: t 56
My dad just had some work done on his car at a high end collision repair shop. I had him ask the guy there how much it would cost to have them put my car on the rack and check it. He said that it would cost 100 dollars. I think that the 100 is a small price to pay for peace of mind. By the way the shop was Goffs colision center in Waukesha Wi.
Kory
Kory
#7
I too just got some SFC and want to check the chassis out.
Now I understand the first part of the measuring.
But
Then compare LF to RR & RF to LR is this measuring them diagnolly?
Does anyone have specs what the distances should be? I know that a spec sheet did come out with all the chassis measurements what they shold be.
I want to take it to the shop and get them to check it out before they weld in the SFC.
Now I understand the first part of the measuring.
But
Then compare LF to RR & RF to LR is this measuring them diagnolly?
Does anyone have specs what the distances should be? I know that a spec sheet did come out with all the chassis measurements what they shold be.
I want to take it to the shop and get them to check it out before they weld in the SFC.
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#8
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Car: 1985 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci from 79camaro
Transmission: 5 speed manual on lsd
If these measurements don't add up indicating that its bent.... to fix it depends on what is bent! My iroc had the front left wheel sitting about 3/4" too far back in the car. To fix it I replaced the K member and a-arms. thats it. No frame shop and pulling with girders required. Its quite tricky to figure out what is bent though. I used several long straight bits of metal clamped across bits of the car to figure mine out.
Si.
Si.
#9
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3/4" ?? holy crap!
that had to of not driven too well, had soem pulling on on side or something
dang
that had to of not driven too well, had soem pulling on on side or something
dang
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Car: 1985 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci from 79camaro
Transmission: 5 speed manual on lsd
Yeah it pulled a bit to the left but not so seriously because the rest of the alignment was correct....ish. Having got the k member and a arms on the car now, I know that the chassis isn't bent. The a arms show'd the bent bits quite well but only when they were off the car.
Si. :lala:
Si. :lala:
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