Q's 91z28

Just getting started on redoing most of the suspension on my car. Just wondering what is the best way to go. I've been looking into UMI and Spohn (which I know are both great companies). Long term goal is to install an LS1 drivetrain into my 91 Z28. I'm starting with an LS1 rearend and moving forward from there. Currently I've installed Eibach Prokit Springs to drop the car about 1 inch. I would like to have a nice weakend driver without feeling like the car is going to fall apart on the first pothole I hit. At the same time, I dont want to overdo it since my car wont be a drag strip type car. I just realized that I need LCA realocation brackets, so I'll be ordering those soon. Any info will help since I plan to buy the rearend this weekend and start buy parts for the rear before I install it.

navyCM

iTrader: (3)

i went w/ UMI and i love it. using a set of KYB shocks all the way around. a big improvement over the crap i had stock(was extremely wore out).

ive had no complants thus far w/ the UMI suspension. the only thing i have not installed is the SFCs. i need to clean up the undercarrige and re-spray some undercoating b4 welding them in.

UMI Sales

Glad to hear that you like the products and thanks for the business! UMI Performance offers a variety of suspension parts that may interest you!
Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer.
http://umiperformance.com/82-92fbody
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

Research every part and decide which brand you want for that part. Consider price, material used(because of weight), and how you want to build your car (street driven, all-out drag, etc.). I wouldn't recommend going completely with one brand. I have Top-DownSolutions.com, Spohn, UMI suspension/chassis parts and am probably going to buy an Edelbrok strut tower brace. Look into package deals. Price the small things like Polyurethane bushings at summitracing.com and your local auto parts store.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

What are your plans for the car- do you like to corner hard in the car? or will it just be a cruiser? I take it from your post, you're concerned about ride comfort.

navyCM

iTrader: (3)

get the poly bushings from TPIparts.com i researched and found they have the best price, it has been awhile though so that may have changed.

Q's 91z28

The car will be more of a cruiser than anything. I am concerned about comfort because I would like to be able to do long drives at some point. Also, since I'll be upgrading to an LS1, I'd like the suspension to reflect the time and work that I've put into the car.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Well, I would reccommend going with combo ended LCAs and PHB. There is the option that Hotpart.com offers with the poly-ball set-up. There is also the option of DIY LCAs and PHB (click my signature picture and go to page two of my car domain- plenty of pics of the LCAs). With these options, you will have the advantage of arms that won't flex/deflect like the stock pieces do, you won't loose much if any ride comfort over stock, and you will have LCAs that operate properly (not binding like the double ended polyurathane ones will in cornering). Double rod end parts will give you more performance, but the ride comfort and and road noise will suffer some, and the rod ends need to replaced about every 15-20k miles and are pricey.

You may also want to invest in some sound deadener for the car as well. The design of the 3rd gen uni-body wasn't very tight from the factory, and with age and mileage, it only gets louder. For a cruiser, it would be one of the first things I'd install. I'm going with the kit from 'Fatmat' this summer to quiet my car down some (rod end rear suspension, KONIs, lowering springs, polyurathne bushings about everywhere... yeah, it's not quiet).

You should also consider weld in SFCs and a 'wonder bar'/steering brace for the car. They will reinforce the chassis and cut down on some of the noises in the process. It will also let the suspension operate more correctly.

Dokken10

iTrader: (18)

I was told that the Spohn rod ends like the ones on the end of the Torque arm and the A-arms are wearing out rather quickly and when you call Spohn all they will do for you is give you the companies name and phone# that made them and you will have to buy them.

I don't have them but that is what I was told by a TGO member and someone else posted on this thread that they are lasting about 15-20K which they should last alot longer than that.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

a lot of rod ends are made in china anymore and dont last for ****.

I would recommend UMI, there parts are truely top notch. They just lack a K-member. Which i have been waiting on for quite a while now

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

The repurchase method is correct, as far as I know. Although, I don't think I'd go with QA1 anymore. They moved their production to China, and quality control has suffered accordingly.

They last longer than 15-20k miles, but mine started making noises about that time. Now, (~30-35 on PHB and ~20-25k on LCAs) they are about shot. Sounds like a freight train going over speedbumps and pot holes lol. Mine are the pre-China QA1s and are the same parts Spohn uses. Maybe 'need' to be replaced at 15-20k miles was misleading, but mine were noisy by then and I don't plan to go back with rod ends. Either 'Johnny Joints' or the rubber ends I have on the LCAs.

Dokken10

iTrader: (18)

Who is QA1?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

they are a very large company that makes suspension components, shock, coil springs, rod ends ect. and ect. and ect.

http://www.qa1.net/

Dokken10

iTrader: (18)

I sure miss the days when parts were made in the USA and lasted. Not this crap from China or that area.

Dokken10

iTrader: (18)

Even the ends making noise at 15-20K is still not good and tells me they are worn and going bad. Kinda like a belt pulley bearing squealing, it will still work but its bad.

Q's 91z28

I've been leaning towards UMI. Their prices are pretty good and quality also seems to be good. I do wish they would offer a k-member for my LS1 swap. Maybe with time though.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

The pieces I have are the American made pieces. The PHB end lasted longer than the LCAs. There are higher quality ones that will last longer, but they cost more.

I was just trying to show you what was out there. There are many options, you just have to decide what you want to do and what you want to spend. I think UMI offers good quality parts, but you may want to look into different suppliers for different parts as different suppliers have certain advantages over others with certain parts.

If you are going to do a LS1 swap, you may want to look into a 'Drew's' crossmember or one from Skulte. They are made in a way that allow alot better ground clearance will long tube headers (which is about the only way to go on a LS1, the stock manifolds are essentially shorties).

Q's 91z28

Thanks for the info. Never really considered Skulte. I guess its just a matter of doing some homework.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

I don't believe that every product that moves to China automatically becomes lower quality. It does show they are trying to cut costs and sometimes lower standards are in place automatically during the change. However, going overseas could also mean that the company could invest in better/more machines/production to make the product, better materials, and more money for marketing to have a product that is better and sells better. I've seen both sides in the field that I work. Most of the time though, China is crap.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Skulte doesn't offer alot of parts, but for the crossmember I'd go with them or the piece that 'Drew' sales. Long tube y-pipe exhaust clearance is really bad with the Spohn, UMI, etc parts.


I wasn't automatically discounting them because they are made in China, but because I'd read that the return/failure rate had increased considerably since they'd relocated.

Q's 91z28

Quick update.....ended up going with UMI for the LCAs and Panhard bar. Also purchase some LCA recolation brackets. I'm getting the rearend painted this week and will update the thread with pics of the installation.

**If anyone has done a 4th gen rearend (99+) swap, what ebrake setup did you end up going with?

UMI Sales

Hello
Thanks for choosing UMI Performance! I am sure you will be satisfied with the quality and performance of our products.
Thanks Again
Brad

Jekt

was going to say shop around at all the sites. when you order though check out summit. they have everything and the most youll pay for shipping is $11.95. i think i looked at the same part at UMI and they wanted $25.

UMI Sales

Well if we could get the rate on shipping like summit does seeing how they ship thousands or packages a day. Then we would be able to charge a lot less for shipping then. We are not responsible for what our carrier tells us we have to charge! Summit carries our products though and you might be able to get a little better deal.
Thanks
Brad

Jekt

not meaning to sound like i was bad mouthing you or anything. just saying its usually not the cost of the part but the shipping that can kill a sale. i know it is probably nothing you can do but some companies chargbe outragious shipping to make more money. They will charge $25 and then the shipping cost on the package says $8.65.
youll still get money just suggesting a way to save a few bucks so he can spend it on parts instead of shipping.

73duster

whatever i get i will make sure that the parts are'nt made in china. I will only do business with american made stuff.

UMI Sales

That is a great point! And UMI Performance manufactures all of their parts right here in the USA. It goes from bare steel off the trucks to the great parts that get delivered to your house. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks Again
Brad

Q's 91z28

Got the rearend from the paintshop back on saturday and also received all my UMI stuff last Thursday. Everything looks GREAT . Thanks to UMI for some great quality parts. I was not able to get work done on the car this weekend because it was about 103 outside (way to hot for me). Hope to get it all done during the week and give the car a test drive with the new updated parts . I have a feeling I'll be going back to UMI for more parts.....(do I hear group buy on subframe connectors )

Here are some pics before the install.

UMI Sales

That looks really good! Thank you very much for the business. And great to hear that you are satisfied with the quality and I am sure that you won't be dissappointed in the performance either!
Thanks again
Brad

ra90rsfbody

I am interestedin sub frame connectors

jjohnston

So, I've been reading the posts here, and it sounds like UMI make good components, but are people saying the Sphon products aren't that good?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

so i see UMI finally has some stickers! all the stuff i've bought from you guys and i never got any stickers!

tony_cogliandro

iTrader: (3)

i read every post here and i did not see badmouthing spohn. one comment was made about them but do a search of spohn on this site and see how many times you see people using their products.
you need to research each part and see who makes the best one for your application.

jjohnston

I think what it was is I read that post, and a lot of the others were talking about UMI, and Just thought maybe... I'll do some looking. I think the thing that got me was them wearing out at 25k miles. Not sure if thats normal for this type of part... Its new to me. Just want to make sure I'm getting quality parts.

I'm looking at their stearing rebuild kit, and then noticed they also had A-Arms, LCAs etc, and was going to just get it all from them...

I did the LT1 swap, and want good handeling, but also a comfortable ride, because I mostly will be crusing with it not racing...

jjohnston

I'll have to research springs too...

UMI Sales

Like I mentioned before Everything looks great! But the rod ends go on the rear end and the poly on the chassis. Just figured I would tell you now so you are not wondering about the ride quality.
Thanks
Brad