Trick414

I'm in the process of doing the front suspension/steering on my car.

So far, I replaced all the steering components on my car: inner and outer tie rods, UMI tie rod adjusters, idler arm, center link, and sway bar bushings and end links. Ball joints, coil springs, camber/caster plates, control arm bushings, and new tires are in line for the next couple of weeks.

I had it aligned after I did the steering parts. I went ahead and got the "lifetime" alignment from a local shop. I figure I'll soak them for 4 or 5 alignments before I'm done. The tires are 11 years old, so I suppose I could have waited until I was finally done with the front end before getting new tires and an alignment, but I figured I would do it piece-meal and still be able to drive it around.

Anyway, after the alignment today, the tech stated there was some play in the steering. It was considerably tighter than prior to the steering component replacement, but still a bit of slack. I'm sure the steering box is wore out (like the rest of the components) but I decided to replace the rag joint first.

So, here it is:

1. Disconnect the battery and unplug the airbag connector near the steering column. It is under the dash. Remove the lower dash cover and look for the yellow wire that is marked SIR - supplemental restraint system.

2. Remove the bolt on the rag joint that goes to the steering box and pry it out.



3. Remove the bolt and nut on the shaft near the firewall (near the brake booster)



4. Pry and fight the shaft out of the car. The brake lines get in the way and space is tight. However, it can be done. The shaft collapses so that makes it a bit easier.

5. Drill out the rivets and remove the old rag joint.



6. These were odd rivets. I used a hacksaw to dispose of them.




7. Here's the new rag joint. Notice it is a bit bigger and a bit thicker than stock.





8. I pulled the sleeve back on the shaft and filled it up with some lithium grease. It didn't help much, but I figured it couldn't hurt.



9. I got some new bolts, nuts, and washers and assembled the rag joint.



10. This was the monster. The coupler bolt and the rag joint bolt didn't want to play nice. I ended up going in the other direction with a regular hex head bolt. I had to pry on it to get it to slip over the collar but finally got it on.






So, what should have been about a one hour job ended up being about 4 hours. That includes two trips to the hardware store (and a beer stop...which might partially account for the extended length repair...).

The result: not much help. The old rag joint was 17 years old. It was only slightly more "sloppy" than the new one.

The steering still has some play in it. I plan on replacing the steering box in the near future along with the rest of the upgrades.

My suggestions:

1. Get one of the "rag joint eliminators" discussed on the forums here. They might transmit a bit more road vibration, but I don't think it would be too bad.

2. Buy the whole shaft assembly (if available) and bolt it on in about 2 minutes. If you can buy it for $100 or less, it will be well worth the money.

I hope this helps.

Trick414

pekowski

Trick414,

Thanks for the detailed write up and pictures. I'm about to do the same job and this will help out a lot. BTW, did you use the HELP! brand part number 31002 rag joint for this job?

Ray

Trick414

Yes, it was the HELP! 31002, about $10 at Autozone.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

For all the hassle, I would've just done the eliminator. Oh wait, I did.

At least now it'll be easy to replace next time!

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

Yup, i got the rag joint eliminator. I love it, took out a lot of slack, was a big improvement. Comes with new hardware and instructions pretty straight forward, taking out the steering shaft took me longer then actually installing the rag joint eliminator.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I have the new rag joint in my car right now, and had planned on doing it this weekend. But, I've heard the rag joint eliminators cause a spot in the steering to bind or to have an odd feel. Is this true?

Cadillac

This is the first time I've heard of this repair/upgrade.

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

I have never felt any bind, nothing wierd. Just a more tight feeling all the time.

naf

iTrader: (7)

A lot of the play in the box can be taken out by properly bench adjusting it. Looks like you need a seal kit for it anyway, 'bout $30 at AZ. I've not had any luck with reman steering boxes myself. In the end putting a kit in my old one or a used one and properly adjusting it always worked better.

lonesomecrow

i dont wanna be a threadjacker, but i just bought a repair kit for my box, it is an "HX", and replaced all the seals, i had a hard time putting the darn ***** into place, and now what is really killing me is how to put in the adjusting screw/plug cover, the one with the 4 screws, it goes in a few turns but then it kinda locks too tight and i dont wanna force it in so i dont strip it, do you have any suggestions on how to do this? thanks in advance!

naf

iTrader: (7)

Is this the aluminum top cover for the pitman shaft? If so, you'll have to ensure the rack is centered and drop the pitman shaft in from the top. May have to turn the shaft slightly to keep it from hanging up until it slides all the way in. Also make sure you have the adjusting screw (allen head on top) all the way out.

lonesomecrow

thanks man that really helped!!

myvmax1

Could some one elaborate one this.

My steering has some slop in it, and while I'm sure it is not all to blame on the box, perhaps I could eliminate some of it...


Thanks,

lonesomecrow

http://www.monte-list.nu/tech/boxmesh.shtml here are the instructions on how to "bench adjust it" it is the second part of the how-to. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/PowerStrgGear(4).jpg and that is a picture with instructions in case you need them, the whole process that is explained in the second part of the first link is detailed in the section that reads "12. ADJUST THRUST BEARING PRELOAD" of the second link. Hope this helps.
And to everyone just FYI I tried replacing the rag joint but there was way more slop than with the old one, so i just replaced the whole shaft with one from a pretty good donor at the local Pick'n'Pull. In the next days I am gonna try to order the Rag Joint Eliminator for a better result.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

What size of bolts/nuts to use would be useful information. Oh well, I'll find out in a couple hours.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

I recommend (4) 5/16"-18 button-head bolts, 1.5" long. I only used 2 button-head bolts and 2 hex-flange-head bolts but would have liked to go with 4 button-heads. The button-heads provide a little more clearance. Oh well, it should be ok.

Trick414

Those button-head bolts look like a pretty good idea.

So, they "grabbed" good enough to crank down the nuts?

BIG_MODS

iTrader: (9)

I had one in the car but took it out because the steering effort went up 10x. It went up to the point that it felt like I didn't have power steeting. I needed 2 hands to turn the wheel. I guess some people get lucky and might have perfect allignment so they don't need the flex that the rag joint provides, but that wasn't the case for my car.

If anybody wants to give it a shot, I'll make you a deal on my old one.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

Had to use the tool to tighten them, inverted hex or whatever it is, along with a 1/2 inch wrench on the other side. Its not like a lagbolt where you can't get a tool on it at all, can't really tell in the pics I posted though. It has something on the head to tighten it.

Guest

I had a very bad tight spot when I used the rag disk eliminator. the aluminum dixk will cause bind is some cases. I have an '87 Camaro with a quick steer 12:1 box and I had bad bind. I when to a borgeson joint aftermarket type shaft and the bind went away with the two pivot points rather than one pivot and the rag joint (or one entirely once th erag joint is eliminated.

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