My 91 Bird needs new struts so I got some Gaberial struts on ebay brand new in the box for $15 dollars. So my question is how hard is it to replace them and will I need alignment. Now I have a fractured left elbow which I still can do things ,but with a strut replacement be to hard for me to do. I didnt a search but didnt find anything. thanks

 

Struts for $15? Dang, that's dirt. Do a search for the how-to. Very easy.

JamesC

 

I just changed my front struts yesterday so it's pretty fresh in my mind on what to do.
Jackup front and insert jackstand.
take off tire
use jack to keep tension on your spring, you want to snug the jack under the spring but not take the weight off the jack stand. I also chained the spring to my frame ...just incase.
remove the breakline mounting bracket
remove the 2 nuts that are holding the strut.
the strut locking nut which is connected to the strut mount under your hood was difficult to remove (thanks rust) so I had to remove the strut by removing the strut mount (note: if you remove your strut mount its recommended you get a wheel realignment - I also marked my strut mount positions so I can get it as close as back to normal as possible)and pulling it up out from under the hood. Then it was caveman action trying to seperate the mount from the strut.
After you remove your old strut, remember to replace your strut mount using your marks as a guide. replace everything. EASY 1-2-3..
Goodluck

 

Thanks for the info, I really want to replace them but without redoing the alignment do you guys thinkg that will be possible.

 

Sure. But why not do it right?

JamesC

 

You only need to do a wheel alignment when you move your strut mounts (the mount with the cap and 3 bolts on it under your hood) but its always good to get a wheel alignment especially if you notice uneven tire wear.

 

just get a jiffy marker and trace all the way around the strut mount plate under the hood. then when u go to bolt it back up it should be fairly close. but yeah alignments are often over looked too much. if its out bad enough it effects handling, performance, fuel mileage as theres more drage on the tire not going straight, and tire wear...depnding how bad its out u can eat threw tires fairly quick. oh and if u do go to get the alignment, make sure all ur tierods, drag link, ball joints idler and pitman do not have any play or they wont do the alignment...wel they shouldnt anyways.

 

Well Im not trying to be cheap, but man many places want to charge $60 or $70 and up on a basic alignment. Im trying to restro this car but doing it on a very low budget due to my 68 charger is taking most of my money. So Ive got the running great, fixed some holes in the floor, New carpet and seats and new Rockford Fosgate system and going to paint it black and do a K.I.T.T replica. Not a full fled K.I.T.T but at least with the Light in the front and removing my GFX and Black GTA style wheels So money is tight, but If I can find a place that will do alignments for $29.99 or even $35 then ILL do that. There was a couple of places that charge these prices but arent there anymore or have raised the price. SO will keep looking but will try my best to mark everything so I dont have to do a alignment. Thanks oh I forgot whats a "jiffy maker"

 

I think you can change the struts without messing with the alignment, as long as you don't move the mounts or the steering linkages.
It would be tight, and I'm not sure if it's possible, but I think it would be worth a shot if you don't want to pay for the alignment.
I'm lucky, I have a place that does alignments to my specs for $35.

 

jiffy marker...black felt pen...anything that will help u know where the strut mounts go when ur installing it. i do my alignments for free lol....... what are ur alignment settings? iv been playing around with mine but dont know whats best yet.

 

well 60 isnt bad either, **** i went to BIG O and they charged me 80 for an allignment. i dont think you need an alignment for struts thats not necessary just mark the tops and i hope you have an impact gun cuz thats what me and my buddy had to use to get that ****!ng top bolt off. if your gonna do everything do your ball joints and struts and inner/outer tie rods, idle arm and pitman all at once so you gotta do jus ONE alignment. thats what i did and she handles like a champ now. 15 bucks isnt bad i paid bout 100 for my KYB gr2's.

 

Anyone please input air vs gas struts. i put air shocks in back and was wondering about how the ride would be.

 

i believe the advantage to air is taht u can stiffen up or soften the ride to how u like it. but u can get adjustable gas shocks as well which dont need any extra work to install. but if u have money u can run a compressor and have an on board airsupply so u can raise and lower it as ur driving. which is just bad ***.

 

Too bad your cheap LOL !!! or I would just say go for Tubular A-arms and coilovers.

Other than that, just do as stated above. You have to remove the strut caps no matter what, so make sure you mark them good.

 

whaaat? no!
you have to remove the plastic dust cap to get to the nut, thats it! you dont have to remove the strut mount at all, no need to mark it, no need to remove it. Why make more work for yourself?

 

How do you remove the middle strut bolt so its drops. I do not have air tools but I am waiting on a electric impact. Need Help please

 

To remove mines, I removed the strut mounts and pull the strut out from the engine bay. I turned the strut upside down and put the top end in a vise, and got a wrench to crack the nut. It wasn't easy....thanks rust

dont forget to get your car aligned after removing your strut mounts...

 

Thanks shamble but I got my brother electric impact to break them loose after I broke an align wrench. I now just need to get the k-member to drop but thats another story.

 

Anybody remember what size the bolts and nuts are that hold on the strut. I don't have any metric sockets that big.
Thanks!

 

fight the urge to remove the front spring.they are a bear to get back in.

 

the bottom bolts are 24mm

 

get a cheap angle finder. use it to measure the camber angle of the wheels (how far the top is in towards the car compared to the bottom) before you work on it, then get the angle back to the same when you are done.

 

I was able to loosen the top bolt by spraying it with PB Blaster and letting it sit overnight. Then, I supported top hex bolt with a small breaker bar while turning the top nut. I tried posting photos, but its not working.

 

Standard sockets will fit the bottom bolts. I only have standards that large and they worked fine with a good tight fit. I used an impact to remove them. IIRC, those bolts are suppose to be tightened/torqued with the suspension loaded to almost 200 ft/lbs. You will have to search or hope someone else remembers the exact torque. I found the torque specs in my chiltons manual.

 

Two short threads that cover the installation of the two lower strut to spindle bolts:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ts-torque.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...lts-bolts.html

RBob.