BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

is the mount for the floor right under the center console? i was under my car tonight removing the old arm and driveshaft and i just eyeballed it and it looks like its right under the console. am i right? if so this is gonna suck.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

thats about where it is, why does it suck? the console is not that hard to remove, nor the seats.


ahh, carpet could be interesting

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

took 3 hours to put one in start to finish and i was being slow about it.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

for some reason its always a pain to remove my console dont no why.i also have a cage in the car that might create a challenge. oh well im putting it in tonight. we will see if it was worth it on friday.

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

tell us if it was worth it or not, i used an energy bushing on my stocker and it made a diff, im fixin to pull my stocker and weld up some rolled steel bars up and down it to make it stronger, clean it up and paint it with some engine paint, im planing to my own pan hard rod and the conecter that goes from the pan hard to the sub frame also, i just like building it my self, just nice to say i made it my self and it works good lol........ but i think i will have to buy some lakewood traction action bars.....lol the seem a little hard to fab up unless someone knows some trick i dont!!!

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

dont bother with them, they are not all that they are cracked up to be, just get a good torque arm and your all set

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

do you think the rolled steel bar will work to make my stock arm tighter?? im using a real good bushing? im runnin the bar down the top and bottom and making connecters from top to bottom with it.... the steel bar im using is super strong, kinda like rebar but no ridges, a little bigger, and harder to bend.... im using black iron pipe on my panhard rod with end links off of a 3 point hitch for a tractor (the adjutable type), will prob use black iron pipe and the end links for my control arm since you think the traction action bars aint worth it, but i got to beef it up, my trans shifts so darn good, i need to make the rear alittle bit more secure LOL, now just need to figure out if i want to advertise i got good parts by painting them chevy orange or red motor paint or just painting them black

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

got it in. it was a pain. had to raise and lower the lift about 10 times. and remove the bar 4 times. havent put the interior in yet but it wont matter because i only have half of an exhaust. i had to cut the driverside off before it goes over the axle. just need to modify it a little and it will be ready again.havent set pinion angle yet.

Shagwell

xx11seczxx - should be a very noticable improvement - be sure to post your results.

89RS_82Z - the traction action bars deffinitely suck. Poor design. - As 86TA stated, just go with tube control arms and a good torque arm. - As for your DIY, I wouldn't use solid bar stock, bend wise it's weaker than pipe. I went 1.66 60fts on a 3/4" black iron pipe torque arm, but it was a full build, not just bracing. You should really think more about buying/building a complete arm, as the pinion adjustability is probably the biggest part of the gain, the second gain being divorce from the trans. IMO - use 1" pipe for the tq arm, 1-1/4" for the control arms(basing off of black iron I.D. sizing). For street tires, atleast one-end poly mounted.

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

Shagwell ..... did you use the end links for a tractors 3 point hitch on your control arms and your panhard (if you built a panhard) or did you use something else like the rod ends in jegs?

not sure about building a total custom tq arm yet or buying one, as the car is not raced, i just want to tighten it up a little, now that it was mentioned if i do decide to beef up a stock one i will use black iron pipe and run up and down braces like so /\/\/\/ if possible. im going to the local U-PULL-IT and using junk yard parts for templates, and if i do the tq arm i will moddify a junk yard one as to not possibly destroy my factory one, as i said its not a track car so i dont think the work involved to do total custom or $$$$$ for a all ready built one is worth it............ unless you guys think that the cutom built or all ready made one is worth the time or money on somethin that isnt running at the track

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

yea please let us know how it works out and the diff it made. i have one i got used and i repainted it im putting it in when the new motor goes in...in the spring and i havent heard anyone post results. its the only peice of the rear suspension i havent upgraded even tho i added a poly bushing to the stocker and i def felt improvment. so it should be noticeable.

as far as fabbing up your own LCA/panhard rod. i posted a thread in Fabrication about 2 months ago, it still there wthin the first 2 pages on how to fab your own up to be stronger than most aftermarket and lighter than stock.

i used thick wall mild stell tubing and it really only cost me about as much as the poly bushings cost me. demensions etc are in the thread. wasnt hard to do and these things are STRONG! i upgraded my handmade panhard rod to a UMI adjustable when i lowered mine but other than that, improvements over stock where incredible.

J's T/A

iTrader: (2)

I just put one in with my new engine.. I really like the difference it made, bites a bit harder out of corners and just seems to give the car a bit more traction off the line too. On the bad side for me in fourth gear it transmits a bit of gear whine I didn't have before.. My car will never see a strip however so these are SOTP observations.. Though IHI here on the board can give a strip opinion of the arm.

My main reason was getting the darn thing off the tranny and preventing the frame tearing folks have had with the t56 from the levering action on the crossmember.

all in all I would say it is a very good mod. Be happy you had a lift, I was on my back with jackstands.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Having a Moser rear myself, I still don't see how that was possible....

I tried the Jegster arm on mine, and there's no way it would've fit without major grinding on the torque arm bracket...it was angled waaayyy off.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

amen to that. mine was a royal pain. i had to oblong the holes to make mine bolt up. still havent set pinion angle and that was like 4 hours. interior isnt back in yet either. but im also running wires under my carpet.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

is this torque arm supposed to resonate noise or is it only my car? rear end is very loud. trying to set pinion angle and dont think im doing it right.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

My rear section of the jegster torque arm bolted on in under 5 minutes with no issues. Yes it was angled way off, but that's why it's adjustable so you can set pinion angle properly. A lot of that depends on ride height since it's bolting to the floor so ride height would affect the initial pinion setting.

I didn't oblong any holes, maybe you just had to remove the powder coating? The holes for everything on my moser rear went together smoothly.
----------
It might be whine from the rear itself, my exhaust is too loud to notice other noise, but an improperly set pinion angle could make this more apparent as well.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

thats what i figured. the rear has some noise but it got loud since i put the arm in.

wdigitog

That would figure since the arm is now bolted to the floor pan/tunnel! Any vibration would be transmitted to the cabin.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

No - I'm not talking about the arm being angled too far up or down, you're right - that's what the adjustments are for. I'm talking about the side-to-side angle. If bolted to the Moser rear, the front of the TQ arm wouldn't even go under the tunnel - it was hitting the bottom of the floorboard. The ONLY way to remedy that would have been to grind on the nose of the torque arm mount on the Moser rear so the arm could be aligned (or "swing") to align with the tunnel. Not uncommon, and I've heard about others having to do the same - and it's much,much more than just grinding off powder coating.
I can only guess that you have some older style Moser TQ arm mount or something.....because if you seen the way the Jeg's arm bolted to my Moser rear, it would be pretty obvious that it isn't a "bolt-in" proposition by any stretch.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

i no my arm hit the floor on the drivers side in the back. a little hammering and its clear.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

my moser rear isn't even 6 months old so I'm sure it's the up to date one. No idea what you had issues with, I did have to beat up the floor a little near the torque arm mount, but that didn't bother me.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

thats about the same with mine. about 6 months old but ive got a 12 bolt not a 9 inch.didnt bother me to hammer it in. im at the point were i dont care i just want to hook.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Don't get me wrong xpndbl3; not saying you're lying - But I tried every way to make a Jegster arm fit, and I ended up getting a refund. Frustrating because I think it's a good design and I wanted to run it. I got the adjustable one too!!.....

The crossbrace on the TQ arm butted up against the "nose" of the Moser TQ arm mount, but wouldn't pass over the nose throwing the angle off if that makes sense...I ended up grinding the nose down for an hour on that heavy casting just so my UMI non-adjustable would fit...

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

On my jegster torque arm there were 4 sets of holes that you could choose from, 2 of them wouldn't work IMO without a lot of work and the other 2 just slid right on.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

what do you mean by 4 sets of holes? you can run it on only 2?

Shagwell

those tractor type rod ends are corse threaded and considerably weaker than performance oriented rod ends. I never changed my panhard. I welded a piece of pipe into the stocker to re-inforce it, but my main concern was not cornering loads. For the control arms I used poly leaf spring bushings from energy suspension. Piece of pipe for the arms, cross piece on each end that had the proper I.D. for the bushings I used. IIRC, I took 1-1/2 pipe and split it on one side, compressed it a bit and welded it back together. I'm going to run a spherical on one end with the new chassis to eliminate bind under body roll. My tq arm was solid rod ends top and bottom at the diff housing, poly at the front.

xx11seczxx
I already responded in your other thread.

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

cool, im going to start on mine after the holidays, i guess this will help alot on making it more stable on that 1st to 2nd shift, i know the energy bushing and tranny mount helped loads on that, i guess the control arms will firm it up some more, correct me if im wrong

Tranzamman

Anyone have a write up on the install of one of these jegster arms ? -- What about install photo's

aurum_duck

iTrader: (2)

i'm installing mine now, tomorrow, tonight.... one day at a time. it's pretty simple, but I want to see some pics of the tunnel mount plate. i've got a 4th gen aluminum driveshaft, concerned that it wont clear the torque arm and also, since i havent sized it up yet, just wondering if the mount covers where the ebrake comes through the tunnel.

I've got the instruction sheet if anyone is interested. I reallly want to see a pic of one installed... particularly the mount in the tunnel and the arm itself.

aurum_duck

iTrader: (2)

Found a pic on webshots... stole them from a fella' with an early thirdgen camaro.

install is simple... 3/4" spacing on the slider (at the front) with the grease nipple down and load off vehicle. THen, load the suspension with creative jack stand placement and verify that the 3/4" is still between the head of the slider and the torque arm itself... exposed 3/4" I suppose from the pic. Drill, mount, torque and test pinion angle. Instructions say 5 threads showing on bottom, each side; 3 threads showing on top. thats a start, but will need angle finder to adjust properly. Should be able to plant hardcor e after that. Thanks for the pics, whoever. Looks like a 4th gen driveshaft will clear, and the ebrake comes out underneath, where it is not touching in a bend of the tunnel mount.... see for sure when it goes in this week.

http://image63.webshots.com/163/1/82...4drOEBf_fs.jpg

http://image52.webshots.com/152/8/91...4hKjluE_fs.jpg


http://image44.webshots.com/45/7/36/...4fcrgkL_fs.jpg
http://image46.webshots.com/46/0/2/3...4mkdfQU_ph.jpg

http://image46.webshots.com/46/6/65/...4KXjfSy_fs.jpg

http://image48.webshots.com/48/2/84/...4WsbdKh_fs.jpg

nightrider327!!!!!!!!thanks again!!!!!!!!!!

Bradlyj8Z28

iTrader: (2)

So, any more thoughts on the Jegster torque arm? Pics maybe? The post above mine just says "forbidden" when I click them.

Blind Driver

Looks like the links are dead. This is the first I've heard of the Jegster

I can find the above links on google, but can't enlarge them

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I'm using the adj. jegster torque arm and love it. Been using it for about 4 years now. So far best 60' times are in the low 1.60's with it and many other aftermarket parts.

Heres my pics of it on the stock 10 bolt rear
http://rides.webshots.com/album/551082180CMaOxC

Theres a couple pics in this album of it on my moser housing 9" ford setup on same car
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561702598OdsQff

Bradlyj8Z28

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for sharing the pics. Great looking settup. It looks allot better than my Sphon settup. Really feels in the way with the torque arm going to the crossmember, and the crossmember hangs really low and scraps on speed bumps.

I am not looking for a Cadillac ride but do you feel a lot of drive live vibration with the Jegster arm?

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

No not really. I did pick up a little vibration with it but nothing major when I 1st installed it with pretty much stock suspension

Now I have alot of driveline vibration, stiff ride, etc but its more due to the roll cage, sfc, stiff springs and shocks than the torque arm, plus the dual 3" exhaust pipes touching the floor pans, trans crossmember, etc

gtpro700

I know it is an older thread but had a quick question. Why have slider 3/4" out when installing it without the rearend under a load and then put it under a load? Couldnt you just install it 3/4" out when the rear end is held with jack stands? Not sure of the first part and why you would position it with the rear end not at ride height and then bring the rear to ride height? Thanks guys!