91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

There are normally at least 1-50 people a month asking about how to either lower a car or build one to take the twisties like a....well, fast. I made this write up so to avoid re-posts.

Section 1: Lowering a F-Body The Right Way

If you are wanting to lower you car, there are several things you have to take into consideration.


The first thing that needs to be done (especially on the older cars) is to check the bushings for wear and tear and replace as needed. This includes inner and outer tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, etc. This isn't an absolute necessity, but starting to modify - or even drive - a car with worn components.... This is especially true if you are going to build the car to turn (as in Section 2).

When selecting bushings, sticking polyurathane everywhere isn't really the best choice. While polyurathane is great in sway bars, it looses it's shine in places like the LCAs. In the LCAs, the polyurathane can create bind in hard cornering. That's another thread, though. Rod ends work well in the LCAs, but to some they are too harsh. I have a set of LCAs built from parts ordered from the circle track suppliers. Heavy duty rubber bushing on the body and a rod end on the axle. A-arms don't see the same twisting forces that the LCAs undergo, so polyurathane is pretty good here. The same is true in the pan hard bar. I prefer a combo ended set up for the PHB, as well. I use NAPA parts for the steering linkage bushings (tie rods, ball joints, etc). A word of caution, polyurathane anywhere will squeak more than rubber, but it's not really enough to be a bother as long as your in the car.

When replacing springs, GET SHOCKS WITH YOUR SPRINGS. If you lower a car, it does more than just make it look cool. Lowering springs normally not only lower the car (causing the shocks to set at a place they are not designed to do) but are have a higher spring rate (stiffer). Both of these related facts cause stock or replacment shocks (Auto Zone, Advance, NAPA, etc) to wear out much faster. This isn't only bad for handling, it's literally dangerous after prolonged periods; it causes the vehicle to be harder to control at speed and can increase braking distance. Shocks to consider are KONIs, Bilsteins; these are somewhat common and more expensive names. But, if you don't want to spend that kinda money (keep the stock springs ), there are other brands that will work such as Tokico, KYB, etc.

In addition, when you lower a car, it affects your suspension geometry. The basic fix is LCA (lower control arm) relocation brackets. They will allow you set the angle of the LCAs back to stock after lowering. An adjustable PHB (panhard bar) is a good idea, because lowering a car without one will cause the rear alxe to set off center. It's not very noticable nor neccesary, but it is a good idea.

Section 2: Making an F-Body Handle....Better

*This list isn't for people who want to auto-x - some of the things I mention will change what class you'll run. This is for people who want a good handling street car*

For those of you looking to do more than just get ride of wheel gap (though, nothing wrong with that)
Best first mods (after replacing worn out bushings, etc):

1. Tires: Good ones = MONEY I've heard good things about GoodYear Eagle F1 GS-D3s, Falken RT-615 and Kumho MXs (although, MXs aren't a very good wet traction option) I have some 275/40ZR17 BFGs on 17x9.5s

2. Shocks: (again, money) KONIs or Bilsteins. I'm not sure, but Sam Strano may revalve Bilsteins for 3rd gens. I know he does for 4th gens.

3. Springs/Sway bars: Springs...lower isn't better unless you have the spring rates to back it up. The right spring rate and ride height with the right shocks makes a big difference. With sway bars, the biggest you can get isn't necessarily the best; finding a balanced set of bars for your car is very important. (for example, my 25.4 rear bar is too big and causes the car to over-steer instead of under-steer, especially under throttle)

An agressive street allignment (usually overlooked) is in there somewhere...not sure where to list it, but it is VERY important. I can link a listing of what is reccomended if you are interested.

Most people won't agree with that listing/order, but it's what the auto crossers and road course racers recommend when your first getting into it. All the other stuff (LCAs, PHB, relocation brackets, SFCs especially) helps of course, but you will see the most bang for the buck with that list... just expect to a lot of bucks.

Section 3:$$What You Can Expect to Spend$$

To give you an estimate, I have the following in my suspension:
KONIs around ........................$750
Pro-Kit: ................................$245
Camber/caster plates ..............$149
Wonder bar............................$70
LCAs around ..........................$200
PHB .....................................$160
rear sway bar $......................$160
front sway bar I used
from my parts car...................$150
brake pads were about ...........$110-120
SFCs....................................$200
(Not really a part of the suspension, but if you are going to be going faster, you need to be able to stop faster and the Zone won't cut it)

Total ~ $2200

This is a simplistic explaination of what is involved in lowering a car properly/making it perform, and there is much more depth to be had. But, at least it keeps the same questions from being asked all the time


PS. This is not the only way to do things. This is not neccesarily right for you. And if you die or wreck or loose a bet after reading this, don't blame me.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

How big of a deal and how necessary are the caster/camber plates?

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

How can you tell if the rubber bushings are worn? Just look for cracked rubber?

Will the squeak from the poly bushings be noticeable during street driving or for when I autocross?

What would a good aggressive street alignment be? I autocross my IROC but I also use it as a DD.

BMmonteSS

Great write up....just one little problem. You mention that you need the spring rate to compensate for the lowered ride height. The pro-kit actually uses softer than stock rates........how does that work?

Might want to go into what kind of spring rates are needed for different ride heights.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

In most cases, the stock strut mounts are worn out. Replacing them with the J&M or Spohn parts is a good idea as they are more durable for harsh driving. They also offer a wider range of allignment adjustments. There's probably some advantage I'm over-looking.

You can tell from looking (if it's not noticable during driving) at the bushings if they are cracked or look dry rotted, worn, etc. Take a look at a new bushing for comparison.
The squeak is noticable in the LCAs from inside the car (the colder it is, the worse even when greased regularly) so I'm pretty sure people outside can hear it too. On the sway bars, I can't really hear it inside the car and I've not noticed it out side unless I am jacking one end of the car up and the other end gets fully relaxed/extended.
I'll have to look into the allignment specs. I can't recall the correctly off the top of my head.

The Pro-Kit is 714in/lbs and the only stock springs stiffer (that I know of) are the Moog 5662s at 748. I'll look more into what is needed for different lowering levels...that seems like a head-ache. Is there any set rule of thumb for that?

Dockrocker

Great write up. Also, depending on what suspension package the car came with, the bigger sway bars from the factory are pretty good. Some will just need springs, shocks, tires (assuming all the rest of the components are in good shape) and let her eat. I have had several 4th gens, an M3, two C5 corvettes, but I love my third gen, its the only car I have kept through all the years and would never consider getting rid of.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I didn't think about adding that when I was writing the page. I'd go back and edit if I could.
I too love your 3rd gen. lol.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

FYI
Moog 5662 = stock Z-28 springs. 700lbs/in
Moog 5664 = stock convertible and S-15 truck, 750lbs/in

in one article that was released online they swapped those two numbers, and the typo spread like wildfire. 5650 = stock sport coupe, ~650lbs/in.

Just for the record, I have yet to hear my full poly car make any squeak at all... But it's common that people say they hear squeaks, i've just never heard it.

Here's the front end alignment specs 91_5.7 was probably thinking of;
https://www.thirdgen.org/suggested-front-end-alignment
The table is all butchered (at least in my browser), but a copy paste into msword fixes it I think.
Again, FYI - When I went to get my car set up to this, the strut mounts didn't have enough travel to get to "hard street use", so I only got close.
Use a die grinder to lengthen the slots on those, or get new strut mounts from Spohn or Hotpart. IMHO I think that's a very good way to improve the handling of your 3rd gen - especially if you are unsure of the current alignment specs.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the additional tech. Those allignment specs are a little garbled on mine as well. Not too hard to figure out what they mean though.

Something I forgot to put in the article is front A-Arm bushings... I've heard alot of good things about these from Global West. Can a mod or someone edit this into the original post?

iansane

iTrader: (1)

The main benefit I've seen from the spohn steel version of the original Hunter Motor Sports aluminum strut mounts was the increased strut mounting height. It puts the attachment point for the strut something like 2" higher than stock, offering you more strut travel, and more likelihood you'll be in the struts "sweet" spot.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Also, they bushing/bearings are more solid/sturdy than the stock pieces, offer more camber/caster adjustment, and will most likely out-last whatever you buy from AutoZone, etc.

camaro91

someone should sticky this!!!!!!

VAN454

For sure, this NEEDS to be a sticky!! Great right up. One question, I have an '88 GTA with the WS6 set-up, what parts of this are worth keeping? I assume the sway bars should be big enough to do the job, what about the springs? Are they stiff enough? I plan to start doing some of this stuff to get handling better, so I imagine that any shortcomings of the standard set-up will start to show when I do other things.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

The spring rates with the WS6 would be ok unless you plan on squezing everything out of the car. I'd reccomend getting new OEM ones to replace the stock ones if you don't want to lower the car. The stockers are worn out and sagging.
The sway bars will be fine as well if you have the 36/24s. But, sway bar/spring choice will depend greatly on the driver (you). I'd reccomend getting a selection of bars to tune to the handling to what you want.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I see no mention of a Strut Tower Brace....I put a 3-pt Edelbrock one on my 87 GTA, all stock suspensio except for a OEM Wonder Bar. I got it cheap & used, so I didn't have "I-spent-too-much-money-to-not-feel-a-difference." in the back of my head & didn't really expect TOO much. Besides, I had buyers interested if I didn't keep it. Nobody could say FOR SURE, it would fit under my Pontiac hood. Whole thread, ZERO replies....

But It sure felt better, so I took it off to compare back to back. Semi-sloppy. Put it back on....Tight.

oil pan 4

iTrader: (1)

I have poly every where up front, no squeeks yet. Only have it on the rear sway bar in back so far.

RacerX13

If your poly bushings are squeaking you didn't use enough of the lube, and the little tub that comes in the kits usually isn't enough. Buy the bigger tub of it and use what seems like way too much of it-get a nice thick layer if it on both sides of everything and let it splooge out all over the place-you can clean it up after. I put them everywhere front and rear in my Biscayne and they never squeaked.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I've not tried a STB, so I can't really give an account for them. Some people swear by them, and some seem to thing they aren't worth the weight. I'll get one if I can find one used and within my mods budget and post up about it in this thread. It's good that it made a difference in your car, though.

I lubed the crap out of my LCAs throught the fittings, and they were still noisy. May have been the lube I used, but then I took out the control arms they were really coated inside. I'm glad you've had more luck with them though.

Novaguy

I'm new here, this is a great thread. I love drag racing but thats for my 69 nova. Reading this was intresting. Appreciate the help the thought and knowledge everyone has to offer. I have a 92 rs planning to redo the suspension time for new centerlink. The cars suspenion is stock right now. Love hitting the corners hard. Was reading up on bushings. Mogg has a new bushing out made of polyurethane & rubber mix. Suppose to handle and reduce sweaking. Do not know who handles/sells them yet. Read this on there sight. Thanks

Novaguy

I'm new here, this is a great thread. I love drag racing but thats for my 69 nova. Reading this was intresting. Appreciate the help the thought and knowledge everyone has to offer. I have a 92 rs planning to redo the suspension time for new centerlink. The cars suspenion is stock right now. Love hitting the corners hard. Was reading up on bushings. Mogg has a new bushing out made of polyurethane & rubber mix. Suppose to handle and reduce sweaking. Do not know who handles/sells them yet. Read this on there sight. Thanks

Dewey316

I would mix and match the bushings, and get the best one, for the intended application.

For example, on the front A-arms, there is NO substitute for the Del-A-Lum's from global west. They are the bee's knee's of a-arm bushings, and I haven't seen it mentioned at all this thread.

I agree with most of what was said in the initial post. Honestly some of the stock parts do a pretty good job. The stock LCA's really don't do a terrible job, so long as the bushing are in shape. They are descently strong in tension and compression, but will allow for twisting, so that you don't have a snap oversteer situation.

Shocks/Struts are KEY. After that it is front end grip. Our cars rear suspension can get a lot more cornering grip than the front can, due to the huge amount of weight we have. Get the front to get all the grip you can out of it, then start stiffening up the rear in roll, until you balance the car.

My best advice to people is get to an auto-x event, or something like that, where you can push your car to its limits in a SAFE and LEGAL setting. See what it does, then start messing with it, make changes, keep notes, and start learning how diffrent changes effect the driving experiance. Don't really compare times, unless you are a really consistant seasoned driver. Just get used to making adjustments to things, and the changes it makes in the way the car drives. WHen you start figuring out how these changes work, you start to get a feel on how to adjust them to what you want. When you can do that, then you can make your car handle.

Anyone can through aftermarket parts at their car, that doesn't make it better. I would put a well tuned very lightly modified F-Stock or ESP car, up against someone who threw every aftermarket part they could find on their car, wihtout knowing how to make all the fine adjustments, and get the most out of it. As they say, tighten up the nut behind the wheel first. That goes for with modifications too. Learn how this stuff works, learn what does what, learn what adjustments effect what, and then start throwing parts at it, when you find issues with the handling, that you are not able to correct with the adjustments available to you. The rest is just lightening your wallet.

--John

vorgath

OK, I may have messed up. Got the front springs out, cut 1/2 coil off, but not 100 percent sure i cut the top of both coils. I MAY have cut 1/2 off top on one of them, 1/2 of bottom on the other one how can I tell for sure ? And IF it happened,I don't think I can just go ahead and cut 1/2 coil again, to "balance it out" .... aaargghh !!!

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I think I need to go back through the original post and rework it and add information. The original post is a little old and I've learned a good bit since then.
I agree with what Dewey had to say about working on the nut behind the wheel. Experience and knowledge is as much the key as parts. The Del A Lums only came to my attention recently, and I agree they are among the best you can get for the front a-arms. Selections of bushings and what parts to replace vs what parts can just use new bushings in the case of a budget build should also be covered.

I'd be happy to work with experienced members of the forum to make a complete and informative sticky to avoid having new members post the same questions over and over again. It could also serve as a point of reference for parts, techniques, common problems/solutions, etc. I don't know everything and don't pretend to. I just like to use what I do know to help others.

Dewey316

The experienced people don't agree on a lot of different things. Try to get Dean and Mark to agree on things. When they both agree, it is usualy a good sign that that is the best option, lol.

--John

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure we could get people to at least agree on the basics. Upgrade brakes, replace worn parts, good shocks, good tires, stiffen the uni-body with SFCs, wonder bar, drive the car to decide what you want for springs, sway bars, etc. If you're wanting to auto-x, pick a class, read the rules, mod the car accordingly. If a group couldn't come to a consensus, then we could just take a vote. Make a compilation of the best knowledge for a basic guide for beginners and include an idea of what to look for and try for people looking to get more from their cars.

JADIII35

This is a great post and I don't have much to add. One thing to address would be a solid poly bushing for the torque arm (if not replacing with a new one) as this proved wonders in straigth and cornering traction.

In regards to "lowering" how important is the "Bump-Steer Kit"?

What are the best lowering spring - shock/strut combos to replace a WS6 package?

Thanks guys!

JADIII35

Hello evryone,

I am now able to move forwrd with upgrading the springs and shocks/struts. From a WS6 package, would the pro/sport-kit and koni red/bilstein be a good improvment?

Thanks in advance.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

STB takes the flex out of the front- you'll find that flex in medium to fast sweepers.
Poly all around here (for years)- no squeaks AFTER proper lubing.

paul_huryk

I just want to point out to everyone that the third gen suspension is one of the best street suspensions ever built for a street car - in theory anyway.

But GM in its never ending red tape compromised a few important items that would have made the cars world class even in 2008.

Chassis stiffness - not much of it. You throw in some subframe connectors and some other goodies like an STB, you get stiff quickly.

Deflection of stock suspension parts - rubber SB bushings, stamped metal control arms & panhard rod - horrible... Get good aftermarket stuff and you are another step there.

Rubber - even though the top models came with 245-50-16 rubber, going up to an agressive 275-40-17 will increase handling by 0.04g with no other changes.

Struts/shocks and springs. There has been a lot of write ups on what is best... May schools of thought and tested results. The one thing I can say is that the adjustable shocks have a proven advantage as you can get them 100% dialed in for whatever springs you run. I think that in a street car, progressive springs are a good compromise, but linear springs are better in terms of roll progression and feel. I have had both in my cars.

Sway bars - used for final tuning. I prefer stiff front and small rear so I can keep the power under control - loose rear is not fast - sometimes suicidal.

The last item I want to point out is the major advantage of strategic weight reduction (not movement). Since the cars are front heavy, eliminating weight works wonders. 30 lbs for a hood, 20lbs for ditching the A/C, stripping 150lbs+ with an LS1 are the types of things that turn these cars into true terminators.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I'm not completely sure, but I don't the think the bump-steer kit is really a requirment unless you are very low. Still, it would be a good idea. I would say that the Pro-Kit/Reds would be a good improvement. Might want to ask KONI if the Reds will handle the ProKit.

I wish I could edit my original post and include the post by paul_huryk

Guest

There is no "this package is great for everyone" setup. Why?
Cars are all diffferent even when new. Different weights and options
Driver styles are all different, brake options, braking habits (overall general skills with the brake pedal) have everything to do with how the car will rotate into a corner.

Bumpsteer kits? only needed if you request your alignment mechanic to "bump" the car on the alignment rack and check for bumpsteer where the toe settings go bad. This involves a rack with a pulldown strap and turnplates under the front wheels so the steering angles can be checked not just straight line, but also when cornering. Generally, high amounts of positive caster will result in tierod angle shortening and the bumpsteer kit may just lower that enough vertically where the toe stays more intact as the control arm travels upward parallel with the tierod yet the upper mount point (strut mount) is so greatly angled that the caster gain increases dramatically in travel and pulls the spindle rearward also. When this happens, the result is toe out condition in bump. Dropping the puter tierod a bit may and usually will correct the articulation central point of the tierod geometry.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Another hole in my knowledge filled. Thanks D.
I didn't realized I'd given a "package that is great for everyone". If so, this wasn't my intention.

Guest

You didn't give any specifics.

I was simply adding to your sticky about the questions people continuously ask about what springs I should use, what swaybars should I use, what tire and rim size should I use. It was a blanket statement I made suggesting that even if one persons car is 100% done to their liking (and that could mean 50K into it) anther person wold still like to change it to their own feel.

i guarantee if I bought anyones car on these boards I would definately change things on it I don;t care how much is done to it. I will give a basic example to make the point. In my racing feild, there are 35 craftman style supertrucks- ALL are suppose to be somewhat spec and identical, yet, no two of them run the same identical parts and settings. Even if they did, there tires are different durometer of rubber, their chassis' have different age fatigue, drivers weight is different, drivers style is different....etc.

Now with that said, people also drive around in different temperatures. Some in 50* average weather, some in 80* average weather. The cars balance will vary alone on temperature believe it or not. example- I change spring rates softer for the heat of the day qualifying as for what I do when I run the same day at night during the race. I loose mechanical grip in the heat and the cars balance goes to hell also. I have three different "basic"packages I run based on temperature all on one track- and from there I taylor the car to the days condition and tire changes. Now granted, street cars are in no way as critical a situation, but just to address the all out handling senerio, it still is affected daily with road conditions. My car could not pull that 1.07g's every day that I did record it at, I might even have a day where I could have pulled a 1.11 given more ideal situations of surface temps and weather alone without changes. Likely though, the older the tires get, the harder the rubber gets and the #'s drop.
----------
If suspensions where and easy thing for people to grasp, then top level crewcheifs would not be making $1,000,000+ a year salaries.

Just food for thought.

Yes, even their heads hurt with this game. Its not easy

Excellegions

Hey, I drift my camaro and Iwanted it as low as possible, I tried dropzone and AG springs and they didn't drop as much as I wanted, wasn't trying to spend nearly $1000 on springs, so I cut the originals about two coils to get this look. It's nearly perfect, doesn't bottom out as much as you would thing, and it's not a v8, however while drifting, if the wheels are sticking and I dont have a good slide, I have this uncontrollable hop that doesn't stop. also happens on the highway sometimes when there's a dip. It gets retarded how many times it hops. I realize that it's because I don't have performance shocks, I just got new stock ones thinking that would be cool. I was looking at the KYB AGX, They are around $400 for the set, I wanted to know if I install these with my cut springs will it in anyway raise the car? And Will I get rid of the hop?

Fords88Bird

Hey I like how ur car sits Excellegions, the spring rate on there is prolly only 300-400 lbs and when u cut them that rate increased some but still not enough to stiffen things up enough. A lot of people are against cutting springs (I'm not one) but if u start with a higher spring rate than ur stock ones and trim a bit at a time u end up with a custom set that puts ur car just where u want it and will handle better. U prolly got a 3"-3 1/2" drop and u wont find that in any aftermarket kit so u have no option but to cut your own. I got to find some time to drop my car and I will get some new Moog's with 600-700 lbs spring rate up front and trim to fit, I'm looking for a 2"-2 1/2" drop on mine. New struts won't raise ur car and could take care of some hop but their going to be overworked with your spring set up. Later.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Ok. Thank you for the addition input. It's always good to have more knowledgeable people than myself helping with the thread...even if it's not a sticky.
I would recommend going with a set of KONIs. I know it's something of a cliche, but they really are worth the money. I don't think that the KYBs would hold up with the car being lowered that much. And I'm never a fan of doing something twice. Plus, you'll have improved dampening with the KONIs over the KYBs.
I noticed when I installed my KONIs, it lifted the car slightly over the worn out Monroes on the car. It ma the same for you, but I'm not sure.
You don't have to spend that much on springs to get as low as you want. Several companies, including Eibach and SSS, sell springs to you specs at around $60-$80 a corner.
I'm not sure what spring rates you're looking for for drifting, but there is a member that goes by Crazy Hawaiian that could probably help you.

Excellegions

You're right about the koni's pinching my pocket, jegs sells them for nearly $700, vs the $360 for the KYB, it sucks to hear someone say the KYBs wont hold up. All I need is one opinion for me to go back to the drawing board about something, yet those koni's are wicked expensive, I never thought I would be spending so much just on the shocks, this was suppose to be a low budget build. do you strongly believe the KYBs won't stabilize me?

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I'm not saying they won't work. They will work better than what you have and will make the car more controlable than it is now. They aren't, however, designed to work on lowered cars, especially cars as low as yours. Also, they won't compare well to the KONIs dampening at first installation and they most definatly compare well when they have been on the car and put through their passes a few times.
What I'm saying is the longer they are on the car, the less effective they will be in doing their job. I've learned to not think of it as 'just shocks'. I look at the fact that, in essence, the shock control the suspension. It would be like putting a good set of heads, cam, headers, etc on a fuel injected engine and then not tuning the computer- without the proper control, anything else you do is futile. The best price I'm aware of for them is from Hotpart.com 684.86 with free shipping. If it makes you feel any better, I've been working on my car for over 4 years to get what I have now.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Another option are the KONI Reds. They are the step below the Yellows, and a couple of steps up from the KYBs.

Boosted Bird

Hey Excellegions. Get some rod ended LCA's (or new ones period) to control your wheel hop also. Think it will help more than shocks.

Fords88Bird

, plus LCA relocation brackets. Later.

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

Excellegions,

If you don't have Lower Control Arm Relocation brackets yet, I would get some. The whole purpose of them is to eleminate wheel hop, esp on lowered cars.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Getting the LCAs and brackets will help your wheel hop.
Still, I'd get some better shocks to control the car better.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

I have had the koni yellows and switched to the kyb agx's about a year ago. I have a 2 1/2" drop and autocross. Most of the third and fourthgen cars I race with use kyb agx's. Their adjustments seem to make more sense and they hold up really well to the stresses of autocrossing. My rs has an ls1 so maybe the lighter front end makes the difference?

Excellegions

I think everyone has the wrong idea on what I mean about the hopping. I have a lowered 1993 lt1 and the wheel use to hop when I take off, Installing tubular lca stopped that, that's not the same hop that's going on in my rs, It's like a sussention hop because the car is to springy, I guess, or is that whell hop as well?

Fords88Bird

Excellegions

I know, at the same time I had to stop and think about it myself, it just seams as if the front of the car is whats dont "most" of the hopping.

Norm Peterson

Got me scratching my head a bit with that. I would have expected a too-high position of a front-steer steering arm to result in toe-in in bump, as the tierod end wants to pull inward faster than the knuckle's rotation about the FVIC does. But maybe there is some plan view Ackermann-related geometry involved that I'm not seeing that covers the front view effects and then some?


Norm

Norm Peterson

If you're getting this driving in a straight line on the highway, are you sure it isn't just a case of shimmy or caster shake?


Norm

Excellegions

While driving, it's fine, untill there is the slightest dip or something, then it hops and takes a while for it to stop hopping,

Pointing towards a differnt direction, we are drawing the plans to drop a v8 in this car, what do you believe is the weight difference between the two engines? I was hoping to leave the springs and put the kyb shocks.