Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Hey all, Ive been doing some searching on Koni yellow shocks/struts and havent really gotten a good answer on where I should start them off with on settings?

I just got a Eibach pro kit and Koni yellows, and plan on installing them this week. Im also a novice road racer and have plans to road race this september. My 92Z currently has 36mm front and 24mm rear swaybars, wonderbar, 18" ZO6 wheels, Lakewood LCA and adj panhard rod and now my pro-kit and Koni yellows. If anyone can give me some good shock setting advise for the street and track settings to start out with I would appricate it very much! Thanks in advance.

cali92RS

Well, when I had my Koni yellows, I always had them at the stiffest setting, street or otherwise. But i like the harsher ride.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

I've just installed mine, I've probably only got 25 or so miles on 'em. I set both the fronts & rears to about the mid-point to start with. Figured I'd put 'em through some hard miles up in the mountains (I live just about at the base of the Rockies), & then decide whether they need to be adjusted or not...

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

It depends on your sway bars. Some reccomend to start at the softest setting and go from there. I've noticed that my car doesn't handle best at full stiff. I have the fronts set to about 1/3 and the rears at 1/4 stiff. I think that I may back the rears down to 0 due to my rear bar being too big for the car. Alot of it has to do with driver preference as well.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Well I have the big sway bars on my Z 36 front (hollow) and 24 rear (solid) I guess Ill give your settings a try, and just go from there. Thanks

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

No problem. I have a stock 24mm (not installed) I'm thinking about installing sometime and see if that helps things. The 25 (and maybe the 24) are too much bar for auto crossing. For high speed stuff, it seems to be ok, but at lower speeds, it seems to be to much... makes the car want to slid out when I apply throttle when exiting a turn. I remember I tried running the rear's on 0, and it didn't really help that much.

RWB____s

I autocross mine with the rears at full soft and the fronts at 2 clicks firm

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

When I was messing around with the fronts, I couldent "feel" any clicks? Just on the rears. The fronts to me felt like they just turned up and down smoothly? Im I missing something here?

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Mine do the same way. No clicks. I think he may be refering to clicks as 180 degree sweeps.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

So it looks to me like the fronts have a total adjustment of 720* from full soft (CCW), and the rears have a total of 4 detent adjustments?

So now Im thinking of starting the rears off at 0 (softest setting) seeing how Im running the 24mm rear swaybar, and the fronts about 360* from full soft (CCW) Does this sound about right to you guys? Thanks again.

RWB____s

correct! sorry my bad. Set the rears to full soft and leave them alone. Your done there. The front setting will depend on your frt. spring rate. My frt. springs are over 700 lbs spring rate. So yours may be different. Try setting the fronts to full soft and adjust according to you own preference. Driving the car each time and adjusting as you go. Have fun they are great shocks.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Ok then, Im running the Eibach pro kit for springs, Ill have to look again but I think the fronts are in the 700 lbs area. Thanks again for the help!

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

They are 714 lbs I think.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

WOW! I just finished up the Eibach pro-kit and Koni yellow shock upgrade and man does she ride nice now! I have the Koni's set-up on full soft settings front and rear right now, but I plan on tighting up the front a bit tomarrow.

I had the stock 92 Z28 springs in there with TPIS shocks and struts (6 yrs old), there supposed to be some re-valved Corvette shock type damping.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

It's nice, isn't it? I don't really like it on bumpy roads, but on a good highway or secondary road, I love it. Firm without being harse.

Dr G

Koni Yellows, Eibach Springs and poly bushes are a nice way to start your setup. I'd recommend setting fronts and rears to the midpoint of their adjustment - getting a full geometry/alignment setup and taking things from there. Good luck with things!

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Polyurathane isn't the best thing for the LCAs.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

When I had my front arms off I noticed the rubber bushings were pretty worn and cracked up from dry rot. I think this winter Id like to replace them with some new rubber ones, as I hear the poly's are pretty rough for a daily driven car.

Now to find out how to get the old bushings out, lol.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

It's not that the ride with polyurathane is rough, it's that they don't operate correctly in that application.

Think about how the LCA bushings work: the cushion the movement of the rear axle up and down as well as allow the LCA angle (imagine them as a line running from front to rear) to change (when the car is put into a corner, the rear axle stays stationary while the body moves slightly to the outside of the turn over the rear axle changing the angle of the line I mentioned before). This is how the suspension is designed to function. Now, consider the stiffness of the polyurathane... it's so stiff that it doesn't allow this angle change as readily as the rubber which puts a bind on the LCA which is released - in an unpredictable - fashion. That's why most auto-crosser's or road racers will tell you to run rubber or rod ends. I made mine to have a rod end on the axle and rubber bushing on the body - works better than stock while allowing the ride not to be too harsh.

Dr G

Koni Yellows, Eibach Springs and poly bushes are a nice way to start your setup. I'd recommend setting fronts and rears to the midpoint of their adjustment - getting a full geometry/alignment setup and taking things from there. Good luck with things!

George

With this setup I have the rears full soft and fronts at two turns for use on a long high speed road course (Mosport International):

1983 WS6 TA, ZZ4 Crate Motor, Demon 650 DP, 3:23 Gears, Hedmans, Hooker Cat-Back & Cut Out, Prokit, Koni Yellows, 32/21 Bars, Spohn LCAs, Brackets and SFCs, BMR Adj. Panhard, Global West Steering Brace, SLP Hawk Rims, KDW 275/40/17s, Poly Bushings, Earl's Brake Lines and some other stuff that I can't remember right now.

George

The edit function doesn't seem to work so I'll add this here:

Track air pressure is about 40 front and 36 rear hot with KDW 275/40/17s.

For street I'll just run about 32 all around because there's no point in beating the snot out of the car.