Corky

My son's '88 bird is a mess. He hit a curb with both front wheels @ 25mph. Passenger side wheel is hitting back of wheel well and drivers side is at a funky angle. I found an '86 bird at the bone yard that I will remove the K-member. The only difference is the '88 has a 2.8 V6 & the bone yard donor has a V8.

Does anyone know if the V6-V8 K-members are different & any thing that is a real PITA on this swap? Any advice apreciated.
The removal looks pretty straight forward, but I know looks can be deceiving!
Thanks,
Corky

Jay

iTrader: (2)

they are the same. Pretty much straightforward swap. The only thing you will have to do is change the motors mounts. Also if you get the whole assembly including A arms and springs, you'll have to use the V6 car springs.
Note the position on the current car and make sure to put the motor mounts in that position on the new K member.

Apeiron

You might find there's damage to more than just the K member.

Corky

I looked pretty hard under the car for unibody damage, but couldn't see. It may show up when the K-member is removed. Then it will be off to the frame shop.
Thanks for the responses.
Corky

Corky

If I have the time, I will take my digital camera and document the removal and installation of the K-Member. This might be a good addition to this site.
Corky

92purplehaze

iTrader: (8)

real straight forward swap, you will need 2 people. if he hit hard enough you might find it a little hard to line everything up. the trick is to get a couple bolts started and it will pull the k-member up to the subframe. will you be doing it with the engine in?

Corky

Yes, engine will be in, but supported from top with home made I-Beam bracket & floor jack underneath as a back-up. From what I understand, there are alignment dowels for the crossmember to sit properly - not sure, just read that somewhere.
Thanks,
Corky

92purplehaze

iTrader: (8)

yes there are allignment dowels, be careful of the brake line screwed onto the k member

Corky

I noticed that on the passenger's side. Can the K-Member be removed without disconnecting the brake line or does the steel line have to come off? I didn't notice the driver's side brake line.
Thanks,
Corky

92purplehaze

iTrader: (8)

you dont have to take it off just unscrew it from the k member... it runs right underneath the oil pan. lower down the k-member down just enough to fit your hand inbetween

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

I had to remove BOTH front brake lines to remove my K-member. GM had them bent to go underneath and in front of the rear a-arm mount.

92purplehaze

iTrader: (8)

forgot about those brake lines you have to just maneuver them one side at a time.... any updates?

wanta427

you have to remove the calipers from the struts so just carefully bend them and all the lines out of the way and you'll have lots of clearance . Just be careful not to kink the steel lines .

Corky

Thanks for the tips. I have to go to the u-pullit yard this weekend and bust my *** to get it off (my son conveniently has saturday detention). I will document the job with digital pix when I make the swap.
Corky

Corky

Finally got my son out to the bone yard today and we removed the front crossmember (hottest day of the year) - wasn't too bad of a job. I started pulling parts off and installing new ball joints. I will chronicle the removal and installation in case someone else wants to do this job. I attached a few pictures. I picked up the ball joint press from A-Zone & got to work. More to come...
Corky

88305tbi

this would be an opportune time to swap lca bushings and maybe break out the wire wheel and throw some paint on that thing...

Corky

Oh yeah, everything is getting replaced before it goes back together. I am not putting top-dollar parts in it, because my son is drawn to hitting curbs! I will clean it up some, but hell it's under the car & no one sees it. Gotta get to work!
Corky

Corky

OK, swap complete. All went well 6 hours start to finish. Included new LCA bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends & wheel bearings, motor mounts, oh and and oil change while we were at it.

I use the balljoint tool to press out & in the new lca bushings - works like a champ. I spray the outer bushings casing with penetrating oil and crank on the tool.

Corky

Start by removing and wiring the caliper out of the way, place hydraulic jack under lca and jack up to keep tension on spring, remove the 2 bolts on the strut and slowly lower the lca down to remove tension from the spring - pull spring out and remove lca.

Corky

Remove all the same parts on the other side, Tie rod end, stabalizer bar bushings & drop lca to remove spring. Remove all the 10mm bolts holding the steel brake line to the crossmember from the topside engine compartment - easy on a V-6, a little harder on a V-8. Make sure you place a board on your jack and support the engine before removing the crossmember. Prep your replacement Xmember by wire brushing around the alignment studs and all contact areas on top of xmember

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

holy crap! are you supporting the car by the oil pan? is that good?

oh hehe didn see the other pic with the other jack.

Corky

To begin removing the crossmember, Remove the traingle shaped gusset bracket in front of crossmember on both sides. With these brackets out of the way you can manuver the xmember around to prevent damage to steel brake lines. Remove 3 bolts on each side holding the xmemeber in place. Before removing these bolts, place a jack under the center of the xmember for support. Removing the xmember is a lot easier with 2 people. One one each side working it around the brake lines.

Once the xmember is removed, Take the time to inspect things like the alignment holes for the xmember in the body, clean off the body where the xmember fastens, inspect freeze out plugs & starter wiring.

Corky

A few more Pix

Corky

While under there change the oil if it needs it - notice the pool of oil next to the drain pan - kids, they just don't listen. Putting the new Xmember in is easy, just reverse the removal steps, watch the alignment on your engine mounts. Having a big pry bar handy is a big help. Next, start putting things back together. I had to use a coil spring compressor to get the springs in - they were fairly new. Notice the chain around the compressed spring - I DON'T like springs & I take no chances with them. Respect Springs!

Corky

COntinue putting parts back on. I measured the new inner & outer tie rod with the old ones I removed. THis gets toe really close until alignment time. Double check your work to make sure all bolts are tight and all cotter pins are installed on front end components.

Corky

When all reassembled, wheels were straight and the tell-tale sign that all was well again was the equal distance on both sides between the tire & the rear of the tire well. Before starting, passenger side wheel had no clearance between tirre & wheel well.

Corky

In summary, really not a bad job. We took our time, double checked our work and took many water & beer breaks. The car goes down the road straight & the steering wheel is back being straight once again. You will need some Ibuprofen in a few hours to ease the aches. There is a picture of the tire and rim after hitting a curb at 25mph. I also have a few spare parts left - I took the sway bar off the donor vehicle - so if anyone is looking for a sway bar from a V-8 3rd gen, I've got one in.