compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I'm trying to decide what wheels I want, right now it's a choice between C6 Z06 replicas or the Rebels. I'm not sure what spacer size I'd need for the rebels. They're 17"x9" with an 24mm offset and a 6" backspacing.

Thanks for the help.

Lonnie P

They will clear with a 1/2" spacer, but is dangerously close to the tie-rod.
Aftermarket tie rods are often thicker, so measure to be sure.

The rears will clear with no spacer required.

I used a 9/16" custom billet front spacer to preserve fender clearance in the front. It is still very close to the point of not wanting to use the hammer on weights on the back side of the wheel.... although they clear.

You will need longer studs in the front as well as the stock studs are rather short. You have to carefully flatten the front dust caps as the wheels are not thick enough to allow the centers to fit.

They look good on my 91 Formula & clear 275/40's with no problem.

Hope this helps.
Lonnie

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I thought these were setup for 4th gens, which would mean 1.25" spacers or so to make them look right?

Do you have any pictures of your car?

Lonnie P

Most 4th gen wheels require a 1" to 1-1/2" spacer, but these are at least 6.5" BS wheels. The rebel is 6" BS.

Many will try to sell you 1" spacers which will work, but I prefer to keep the tires tucked for better fender clearance. My 285's will clear on the front as well on my car at stock height. They clear at full lock, which would not happen with a wider spacer.

Lonnie

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I want the tires tucked, but I really don't want to have to replace the studs. I had to do it to my rear end because some of the threading was messed up and it was a royal pain in the ***. Using my stockers as reference, it looks like there would be plenty of stud left on the fronts if only a 1/2" spacer is needed, are you positive they will need to be replaced?

Lonnie P

The stud length depends largely on the style of lug nut, but I recommend a longer stud.

I test drove it with cheap, pot metal 1/2" spacers & stock studs (to be sure everything worked before I spent $100 for custom ones... It was not to my liking with only 6 turns on the stud. Also the wheel was almost touching the tie-rod, where a pothole could bend the wheel causing wheel lock-up.

The cheap spacers can crack, so I do not recommend them.

Remember with these thin spacers, the dust covers need modified as well.

It should only take an hour to change the front studs & cost approx. $15. This is sort of insignificant compared to getting killed from the wheel falling off.

Lonnie

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

You mean the metal grease cover things? Someone else told me that I'd just need to hammer it down a little bit.

Where did you get your studs from? How long of a stud did you get?

Lonnie P

Yes the grease/dust covers need flattened.... be sure they do not contact the spindle once flattened.

As for studs, try Advanced Auto.... P/N 98501.1 54mm long.

Lonnie

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

Do you remember how much they had to be flattened?

Thanks, now I just have to find 10 of them.

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I've got good news and bad news. Good news is the wheels came yesterday. Bad news is when I test fitted the rear wheel it hid the damn e-brake cable.

Lonnie P

I have drums on my car, so the cable is in a different location. I'm sure a small spacer (1/4" or so) should give you some extra room. It does not need to clear by much.

Depending on the front spacer thickness, you need to check for strut clearance at the top of the wheel. There is a lip on the strut (where the spindle mount is) that may need slightly filed. I doubt it will be a problem, but it never hurts to check.

Lonnie

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I was going to test fit the front wheel too but I didn't have time. I really don't want to get a spacer for the rear too, mainly because I don't want to have to replace the studs in the rear again. I might be able to just bend that bracket, the wheel isn't hitting it much because I had no problem putting on two lug nuts to hold the wheel in place, but I don't know how much the tire will stick outside of the wheel's lip. I'm getting a .75" spacer for the front since you said .5" was barely enough and that's what the other person I talked to said he used.

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I was able to find some 1" adapters so I think I may just buy 4 of those, then I would have to mess with the studs on the front. It's supposed to be nice tomarrow so I'm going to test fit again and see if a 1" spacer will make the wheel stick out or not. How much do your 275 tires stick out past the lip of the wheel? I'm getting either 285/40/17s or 255/45/17s since either of those will give me the same diameter as stock but it'll give me an idea.

Lonnie P

Mine do not stick out & do not rub on my car. Borrowed a 1" spacer & they hit at full lock.

275/40's are the same height as stock.... 285's are taller.
285's are slightly too wide for the 9" wheel anyway.

Try a 1/4" rear spacer to see if it clears. Then stock studs are probably fine.

Not sure if the front stud P/N will be long enough for a 3/4" spacer, depends on the type of lug nut.

I went with as thin a spacer as possible (custom made 9/16") for a reason. Some will try to sell you 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 spacers as well. Then you better buy smaller tires for sure.

I wanted a larger tire & wheel than 275's on a 9", but tie rod/fender clearance limitations stopped me from this. I slid my car all over the place with 245/50-16's & still do to a much lesser extent with 275/40-17's.

Lonnie

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

When I used the tire calculator on miata.net it said that the stock tire (215/65/15) is 26" tall and the 255/45/17 and 285/40/17 are exactly 26" tall and that 275/40/17 and 245/45/17 were both something like 25.7" tall.

When I test fit the wheel on the driver side rear today there is not a lot of room between the wheel and the wheel well so I don't really see how it would work with no spacer, unless there is something different about the wheel well on the Pontiacs. I'll be using acorn style lug nuts so i'll get a little leway there. How much did that custom spacer cost?

Lonnie P

I leveled the high spots in the rear well with a block of wood & hammer. They have never rubbed.

The sidewall is only about 1/2" past the rim.

The 2 spacers cost $125. I had them custom made to locate on the hub. There is no play like the cheap cast spacers have.
Lonnie

compuwiz1937

iTrader: (17)

I can't afford that. I was looking at some 1/4" Trans-Dapt spacers from Summit for $14. I found the 3/4" spacer on Jegs from Baer for $38. I guess tomarrow I'll call around locally and see if anyone has the size spacers I need in stock.