K-member removal pic anyone
#1
K-member removal pic anyone
I have the replace the K-member in my 86 T/A.the guy that had the car before me must have jumped the car b/c the k-member is squashed flat enough that the stock y-pipe has no chance at all of going on. the k-member even has 2 rips I am sure are from this possible jump. the car looks very straight and nothing else seems to be tweeked, so I am going to change out the k-member. anyone have any pics of how the supported the motor from up top in order to remove the k-member from below??I have a carbed motor, so ways of doing it on a tpi car might be a little diff. personall I was thinking of lifting the motor and supporting it with a steel bar under the water pump pulley.
#2
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,667
Likes: 50
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
Transmission: TKO600, T5
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
i dont think it a wise idea to try and support the motor and remove the k-member. itrs not what you want to hear but you probably should remove the engine first. also unless you mover it there is a brake line fastened to the top of the k-member running under the engine and i dont think you can remove it with the engine in. just my opinion on the motor support thing
#3
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,857
Likes: 0
From: Maui, Hawaii
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: broken 385sbc
Transmission: G-Force rebuilt T-5
Axle/Gears: Currie 9" Ford 4.30:1
there is a fastener right in the middle of the k-member.. pull the motor.. or if you really dont wanna, then get a cherry picker and pull the motor to the highest it can go, then drop the k-member to the lowest point without taking the bolts off.. you should have the maximum amount of room to work with.. then from there you should be able to get in there and loosen the brake line.. i would suggest taking the entire front suspension, brake lines, and steering off.. just to make it easier..
and one more thing, nice 84 TA with the 383.. but mine is stick.. close enough..
and one more thing, nice 84 TA with the 383.. but mine is stick.. close enough..
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
yea, I was going to say, use one of those engine levellers, like greezemonkey
awesome TA, I hope mine looks that good once I restore it - plus the smoke, that's key.
awesome TA, I hope mine looks that good once I restore it - plus the smoke, that's key.
#7
I was just going to disconnect the brake line that bolts to the k-member at the prop valve. I was not going to remove a single thing from the k-member unless I REALLY have to and replace the whole works with another fully assembled unit.I am just trying to come up with way to suspend the motor from the top. thanks for the compliments on my 84 T/A !!!
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#8
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,968
Likes: 1
From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
i just put the car on jacks, slid a cherry picker over it and lifted motor until it was just off the motormount pads and that was it. Dropped it down and replaces. As long as I had the tranny still attached to the rear x member I was all set.
#9
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 2
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
normally when im doing this its to a tubular Kmember swap, but the idea is the same.
put a piece of wood on a jack to spread out the weight
put it under the oil pan...
put JUST some weight on it to lift the engine.. you'll be able to pull the motor mount bolts out easily this way...
(im assuming you have the A arms/springs off already)
undo the 6 bolts holding the Kmember on... you can use a second jack, a friend, or your leg to hold up the Kmember....
lower it CAREFULLY.. the brake line is still attached to it.
undo the brake line.
install is reverse..
BTW, NOW is the time if you want to replace your A arm bushings....
this is not a hard (or dangerous) job.... as long as you're not a retard.
put a piece of wood on a jack to spread out the weight
put it under the oil pan...
put JUST some weight on it to lift the engine.. you'll be able to pull the motor mount bolts out easily this way...
(im assuming you have the A arms/springs off already)
undo the 6 bolts holding the Kmember on... you can use a second jack, a friend, or your leg to hold up the Kmember....
lower it CAREFULLY.. the brake line is still attached to it.
undo the brake line.
install is reverse..
BTW, NOW is the time if you want to replace your A arm bushings....
this is not a hard (or dangerous) job.... as long as you're not a retard.
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