Poly-Graphite or Polyurethane
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
Poly-Graphite or Polyurethane
I'm ordering new bushings for my sway bar. Should I go Poly-Graphite or Polyurethane? They'll be greaseable, so squeaking isn't a problem
Thanks,
Bill
Thanks,
Bill
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Car: 1995 Formula; 1976 Trans Am
Engine: LT1; None
Transmission: T56; None
As far as I know, a polygraphite bushing is a polyurethane bushing that is impregnated with graphite to lubricate and prevent squeaks. Grease-able or not, I'd probably choose the polygraphite.
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Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
I'll second getting the poly graphite.
Less squeaks in the long hual....
However, most serious squeaking issues with poly urethane is more of lube choice and torque values :-)
Grease it with quality water resistan grease, like marine grease and torque the suspension pieces back together as if the car was sitting on them(loaded) will eliminate most issues.
later
Jeremy
Less squeaks in the long hual....
However, most serious squeaking issues with poly urethane is more of lube choice and torque values :-)
Grease it with quality water resistan grease, like marine grease and torque the suspension pieces back together as if the car was sitting on them(loaded) will eliminate most issues.
later
Jeremy
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
Wait, you're saying I should torque it back together when the car's weight is on the chassis?
Also, for the 1LE/WS6 bar ends... TDS sells nylon ones. Should I get those, or hunt down some poly-whatever ones?
Thanks,
Bill
Also, for the 1LE/WS6 bar ends... TDS sells nylon ones. Should I get those, or hunt down some poly-whatever ones?
Thanks,
Bill
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Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Yes, when doing suspension work the number one issue I see is people torquing things into place with the car unloaded.
Always put suspension together and than do the final torque values with the car loaded as if it was on the road.
Most times its no harder than using a jack under the control arm and loading it.
Cuts down a lot on the "Why does my car sit so high?" and "My car sits lopsided now?" issues :-)
later
Jeremy
Always put suspension together and than do the final torque values with the car loaded as if it was on the road.
Most times its no harder than using a jack under the control arm and loading it.
Cuts down a lot on the "Why does my car sit so high?" and "My car sits lopsided now?" issues :-)
later
Jeremy
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Car: Pair of 92 Z28s
Originally Posted by 3.8TransAM
Yes, when doing suspension work the number one issue I see is people torquing things into place with the car unloaded.
Always put suspension together and than do the final torque values with the car loaded as if it was on the road.
Most times its no harder than using a jack under the control arm and loading it.
Cuts down a lot on the "Why does my car sit so high?" and "My car sits lopsided now?" issues :-)
later
Jeremy
Always put suspension together and than do the final torque values with the car loaded as if it was on the road.
Most times its no harder than using a jack under the control arm and loading it.
Cuts down a lot on the "Why does my car sit so high?" and "My car sits lopsided now?" issues :-)
later
Jeremy
#7
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Originally Posted by Stevo
thank you, i think i will be re-torqueing my LCAs this weekend also. Stupid thinngs are driving me crazy, slightest bumps and they squeak and squeak...im using the lube that Spohn sell, superlube stuff.
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