Bigger tires a must?!?
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Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
Bigger tires a must?!?
Hi, I've been hearing that keeping all four tires same size would be better for the car. However, I changed my rears to a bit bigger size and I noticed much better response and the car was faster. I usually have a serious wheel spin from first to second. The car sounds like its putting out power, but I cant feel it at all. Than the car shifts to second and brakes tires loose. I was wondering if bigger tires are better since they do grip the road with a greater surface. I plan on running the biggest tires I can fit back in the wheel well. What would you recomend?? i am looking to not cut anything for now.
What is your opinion???
What would you do to eliminate the wheelspin??? LS1 driveshaft? subframe connectors. (I did search and I found more "do a search" threads).
What is your opinion???
What would you do to eliminate the wheelspin??? LS1 driveshaft? subframe connectors. (I did search and I found more "do a search" threads).
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Car: 95 Acura Integra GS-R
Engine: B18C1
Transmission: 5 spd.
some good shocks and maybe some springs. i have koni yellows and the pro-kit all around, and also 255s in the back. my car rarely spins for more than a second when launching hard. granted its only an L03 but i dont think ur spraying yours right off the line anyway...
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Car: 1989 Firebird
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who told you that having four smaller same size tires would be better handling than two bigger tires on the rear... BTW when I say bigger I mean width.
If we're talking total circumference then yes, you want to be somewhat close... having big tires in the rear and small tires up front has been PROVEN to kill your handling.
If we're talking total circumference then yes, you want to be somewhat close... having big tires in the rear and small tires up front has been PROVEN to kill your handling.
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Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
So the bigger width tires would be better?? Which number tells the width of the tire on the tire. Like 255,65,15. Which number of those??
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which tire would be best to the stock set up without cutting anything.
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which tire would be best to the stock set up without cutting anything.
Last edited by xlwhellraiser; 04-09-2006 at 11:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Car: 1987 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305 LB9 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700-R4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: Saginaw 10 bolt 2.73 posi
In your example, 255 refers to the tire width, 65 to the sidewall height as a percentage of the width (in your example, 65% of 255 or 165.75), and 16 which would refer to the wheel size. Usually, you'll see tires listed like this: 245/50ZR16, which means a 245 mm width, 50% of that for sidewall height, Z speed rating (+157 mph I think), R for radial, and 16 for 16 inch wheel size.
A fatter tire will give you a better contact patch for launching and better handling. Fat rears and skinny fronts are fine for drag racing, but they will give you poor handling on the street. A good set of matched (or nearly so) tires will deliver good performance for most driving. I have seen quite a few mid 80s TAs run 245s (stock size) on the front with 255-275s on the rear.
A fatter tire will give you a better contact patch for launching and better handling. Fat rears and skinny fronts are fine for drag racing, but they will give you poor handling on the street. A good set of matched (or nearly so) tires will deliver good performance for most driving. I have seen quite a few mid 80s TAs run 245s (stock size) on the front with 255-275s on the rear.
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Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
Originally Posted by xlwhellraiser
Yea, that answered my question. 275 sounds good to me!
#9
you dont necessarily have to have equal tires all around to have good handling. most modern cars now have skinnier fronts and wider rears and handle well. look at the corvette and other high end sports cars...
it all comes down to the suspension setup. and gettin it to work with the tire sizes you have
it all comes down to the suspension setup. and gettin it to work with the tire sizes you have
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Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
Yup. I am going on a look out for the 275's. We'll see how it goes. I will let all of you know.
laters!
laters!
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Car: Pair of 92 Z28s
Im about to put 285/40s on the back of my car, its a 26" tall tire. This is going on a 17x9 ROH snypers. It should fit fine...well see though this weekend. Tires will be here tommaro!
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Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
Post pics man!
I went looking for tires and the ones that were listed were 245's in the back. i wanted at least 275 and they didn't have any. So, my search continues.
If you guys have some pics lets see them. Tell us how you got them to fit.
I went looking for tires and the ones that were listed were 245's in the back. i wanted at least 275 and they didn't have any. So, my search continues.
If you guys have some pics lets see them. Tell us how you got them to fit.
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Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
Originally Posted by xlwhellraiser
Post pics man!
I went looking for tires and the ones that were listed were 245's in the back. i wanted at least 275 and they didn't have any. So, my search continues.
If you guys have some pics lets see them. Tell us how you got them to fit.
I went looking for tires and the ones that were listed were 245's in the back. i wanted at least 275 and they didn't have any. So, my search continues.
If you guys have some pics lets see them. Tell us how you got them to fit.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I have 275/60/R15's out back on 15x8 second gen snowflake wheels, and 235/60/R15's in the front. if you hit a hard bump you could hear the tires rubbing on the outside, on the wheel well, plus it looks like someone tried to slash my tires, but wasn't completely successful. (ps, I don't think the 2nd gen wheels have the right offset, so I think that's why that happens).
mwnova had 275's on 7" wide stock wheels with no problem.
oh yea, tire width does give more contact patch, and better grip, but quality (brand) of tire, and suspension helps more. If you've got weenie stock suspension you can burn up 275's with an LG4 quite easily (ahem, not that i'd know of course... ) In hot rod a while ago I remember reading about a guys late '60s stang, turbo'ed 302. made big power, something like 600HP or more, I forget. Ran low 11's on 215/60 factory size street tires. It's all about getting your car to get up on it's hind legs and gallop
mwnova had 275's on 7" wide stock wheels with no problem.
oh yea, tire width does give more contact patch, and better grip, but quality (brand) of tire, and suspension helps more. If you've got weenie stock suspension you can burn up 275's with an LG4 quite easily (ahem, not that i'd know of course... ) In hot rod a while ago I remember reading about a guys late '60s stang, turbo'ed 302. made big power, something like 600HP or more, I forget. Ran low 11's on 215/60 factory size street tires. It's all about getting your car to get up on it's hind legs and gallop
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Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
So sense this IS in a suspension catagory, besides good shock/springs, what else should be done to put the weight from the front to the rear? I was told there was an adjustable suspension piece that could be used on the street and strip depending on what aetting it was adjusted to. I'm still puttung the front end on a diet though. Starting with the AC.
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You guys should do more searches, 275's have been done up front and 315's in the rear without tubbing. I think biggest that fit in the back that didnt need any modification was 285's but the backspacing is really important. I'm running 275's in the rear with no modifications needed and no rubbing (and the car is really low) 9.5" wide with 5.5" backspacing. I'm not so sure about 15's and 16's, the info I posted up top was 17's and 18's with smaller sidewalls. I guess as long as overall dimensions are similar then you should have no problems.
If you wanna drop some weight from the front you can relocate the battery, run a fiberglass hood, or switch to aluminum heads. Just some examples, there are many more other wanys to go. The free weight savings mods are great but depends on what the owner/driver wants, some people dont wanna ditch the A/C or gut the interior.
If you wanna drop some weight from the front you can relocate the battery, run a fiberglass hood, or switch to aluminum heads. Just some examples, there are many more other wanys to go. The free weight savings mods are great but depends on what the owner/driver wants, some people dont wanna ditch the A/C or gut the interior.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
LCA's that are beefier
LCA relocation brackets
poly bushings everywhere
perhaps an adjustable aftermarket torque arm
panhard rod shouldn't do much for launching, but you're beefing up the rear suspension, it's something you can consider.
I just boxed all my stuff, then added poly bushings.
LCA relocation brackets
poly bushings everywhere
perhaps an adjustable aftermarket torque arm
panhard rod shouldn't do much for launching, but you're beefing up the rear suspension, it's something you can consider.
I just boxed all my stuff, then added poly bushings.
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Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
Originally Posted by CrazyHawaiian
You guys should do more searches, 275's have been done up front and 315's in the rear without tubbing. I think biggest that fit in the back that didnt need any modification was 285's but the backspacing is really important. I'm running 275's in the rear with no modifications needed and no rubbing (and the car is really low) 9.5" wide with 5.5" backspacing. I'm not so sure about 15's and 16's, the info I posted up top was 17's and 18's with smaller sidewalls. I guess as long as overall dimensions are similar then you should have no problems.
If you wanna drop some weight from the front you can relocate the battery, run a fiberglass hood, or switch to aluminum heads. Just some examples, there are many more other wanys to go. The free weight savings mods are great but depends on what the owner/driver wants, some people dont wanna ditch the A/C or gut the interior.
If you wanna drop some weight from the front you can relocate the battery, run a fiberglass hood, or switch to aluminum heads. Just some examples, there are many more other wanys to go. The free weight savings mods are great but depends on what the owner/driver wants, some people dont wanna ditch the A/C or gut the interior.
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Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
Originally Posted by Sonix
LCA's that are beefier
LCA relocation brackets
poly bushings everywhere
perhaps an adjustable aftermarket torque arm
panhard rod shouldn't do much for launching, but you're beefing up the rear suspension, it's something you can consider.
I just boxed all my stuff, then added poly bushings.
LCA relocation brackets
poly bushings everywhere
perhaps an adjustable aftermarket torque arm
panhard rod shouldn't do much for launching, but you're beefing up the rear suspension, it's something you can consider.
I just boxed all my stuff, then added poly bushings.
----------
Oh yeah, how do you "box your stuff" and what does that mean/do for your F body?
Last edited by Daniel U; 04-11-2006 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
just like boxing a frame expect fopr suspension components. The stock lca's have only 3 sides and are c shaped. You would in this case weld a peice of steel and turn it in to a square peice instead of open ended c. Basically strengthens it from up and down and side to side play.
Although in the lca's case i would say just buy the lakewood lca's they are less than 80$ not rusty like most of ours (powdercoated) and already have poly bushings in them.... Just my 2 cents.
Although in the lca's case i would say just buy the lakewood lca's they are less than 80$ not rusty like most of ours (powdercoated) and already have poly bushings in them.... Just my 2 cents.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
yep flaming had it right. In retrospect, it might have been more cost effective to buy new LCA's, as the bushings were ~$60, $5 worth of steel, and a $6 can of paint so.... (but i'm in canada, so those lca's would have been ~$120 or so...)
Spohn is the man for aftermarket suspension bits, I'm pretty sure he has an adjustable torque arm.
Spohn is the man for aftermarket suspension bits, I'm pretty sure he has an adjustable torque arm.
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Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
Well, infront I am running 215 65 and they rub against the inner well when I turn them all the way. Its annoying. I also have the same tire in the back. I ran 235 for a while and man what a difference. the car was a lot quicker. So, I really want to go with 265 or 275's. I happen to have a 15 wheel so I hope they can get something big for me! I am gonna look around to find good tires now.
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