JFeaster

iTrader: (3)

Hello,
Before anyone asks, I have searched for it, but has someone put together details on their front end rebuild (3rd gen). I don't have a Chilton manual and was hoping to get information from the internet. I'm looking for disassembly and assembly details.

Thanks in advance!

redbird8628

iTrader: (1)

You're looking into replaceing the tie rod ends and maybe an idler arm, taking the old stuff out can be a real pain. i rebuilt my front end in june, it was all rotted and worn. Yank out all of the cotter pins. You're most likely gonna need a nut splitter or a torch of some sort to heat the nuts/studs that hold the tie rod ends to the spindles and center link(which you shouldnt have to replace, no bushings the wear out) or else the stud is just gonna spin with the nut, as it did with mine. The tie rods should come out of the sleeves pretty easily with some penetrating oil. Unbolt the clamps that pinch the sleeve tight, spread the sleeve open a little with a big flat head screw driver or something, put it in a table vice and un screw the rod ends out of the sleeve, counting the number of turns so you can replace the new ones in that many turns to get the alignment close to get it to a alignment shop. The new rod ends may be a bit longer than your old ones, mine were, so even if you count the turns, youre alignment is still gonna be WAY off. I forgert if it's the inner or outer rod end, but one of them has a left handed thread. I think the ilder arm had 2 bolts, the nuts are easy to get to, for the bolts, you need to go through the frame with a socket and an extension. It wasnt that hard to replace, took about a half hour WITH AIR TOOLS. PUT IN NEW COTTER PINS Grease everything up and get it aligned. I did this when I was 17, but with the aid of a car lift and air tools. GO DO IT

CrazyHawaiian

When I rebuilt the front end on my 89 IROC-Z mid '05 I took pictures and had plans to make a post with all the details. I've been really busy so I haven't got around to it. I know the process from doing it a few times but cant remember the specifics (as in what mm wrench to use on what bolt, or the re-torque specs). Heres a quick rundown of how I did mine. First I got the car in the air and supported with jackstands. First thing is to remove the calipers and hang them off to the side with a wire hanger or something similar. Remove the two caliper bolts and the caliper will slide off the rotor, hang the caliper off to the side, dont let it hang by the brake line. Now remove the outer cap on the front rotor/hub, I used a flathead screwdriver on the edges, light tap with a hammer. Once thats off, remove the cotterpin and the nut holding the rotor/hub tight. Once thats off, remove the rotor/hub assembly being carefull to catch the inner and outer wheel bearings in case they fall (or if you plan to replce them then no worry). Now you can see the spindle, remove the swaybar nuts and endlinks, rotate the swaybar down so its out of the way (or remove it entirely). Then remove the cotterpins on both the inner and outer tierods, inner would be attached to the centerlink, outer attached to the spindle. Next remove the nuts for both inner and outer tie rods, if the studs are rotating, put the pickle fork in there but dont jam it too hard, just enough to take up the slack so the nut can be untightened. Once the nuts are off, use the pickle fork with the BFH and knock both sides off. Next take a safety chain with a threaded bolt and a nut on each end and loop it through the hole on the k-member, and around one of the spring coils. This will prevent the spring from jumping at you when you drop the a-arm. Remove the cotterpin on the balljoint stud and remove the nut, might need to use an extension to clear the bottom of the strut body. Use the pickle fork to seperate the a-arm from the balljoint, give it a few good whacks with the BFH. Once the a-arm is dropped, remove the safety chain and remove the spring and isolater. Then remove the nuts/bolts holding the a-arm to the chassis and remove the a-arm. You may need to turn the steering full lock (even though part of it is disassembled), the centerlink will get in the way of the front bolts for the a-arm, turn the steering full lock the other way. Remove the two nuts holding the struts to the spindle, these ones are TIGHT (175 ft/lb) Then remove the 3 nuts holding the strut mounts down to the towers, remove the strut and strut mount assembly through the top. You can use 2 wrenches at once to remove the top strut bolt from the strut mount (took me a while and 1 destroyed dust boot to figgure this one out LOL). You can go further into the steering at this point if you wanted to do a complete rebuild of the steering components. Putting everything back together is pretty much the opposite. To get the spring back in (after struts are back in and spindleis attached) place the a-arm under the spindle, put the balljoint stud through the spindle and tighten the nut down (but not all the way). Then place the spring into the a-arm and position it correctly up into the k-member as you apply foce up. Be sure to index the spring correctly. Use a floorjack to raise up the a-arm tabs that connect to the k-member, the balljoint stud will act as your leverage, I would still hook up the safety chain. You can use a screwdriver to align the tabs up perfect with the k-member and put the bolts back in. Remember not to tighten the a-arm bolts until the suspension is loaded. Definately use a torque wrench to verify proper torque specs when re-assembling. Be sure to re-pack the wheel bearings with grease as well as dab a good ammount into the rotor/hub outer cap before re-installing. Be sure to re-grease the caliper bolts as the caliper will self adjust on these bolts, you want free movement and no dirt. I would replace the springs, struts, and all bushings as long as its all apart. I would also replace the tie rod adjusters with the Coleman Racing ones, they are $22 for the set well worth it. Then head to the alignment shop and you're good to go.

JFeaster

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the help guys. It came apart very easy as this is a race car and doesn't see weather. I do have one more question, before I send the a-arms out for powder coat, there's a bracket (w/o any holes of anything) riveted to each a-arm. What the hell are they for? I was just going to grind the rivets off and do away with the brackets if they aren't for anything. Any replies would be appreicated.

Thanks in advance!

CrazyHawaiian

I believe those are the steering stops, but on my car they were no rivents, had a nut and bolt deal. So not sure, might be something else. To verify mock mount the spindle on the balljoint stud and turn it to simulate the steering turning, see if those tabs are acting as stops against the spindle arm. There are also steering stops in the steering box, so you might be able to remove those with no side effects, I think those stops on the a-arms are backups but not sure. I haven't totally removed mine to verify so I cant say its 100% OK to remove em.

JFeaster

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Crazy Hawaiian. I think you're right. My car is 100% drag car and will never see street use but I'm going to keep them on there either way.

Thank you for all of your help!

KonArtist

iTrader: (1)

I was gonna use this guys little site for my rebuild.

Here: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tarami...er72/my_photos