Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

And man, I can't manage to get a smooth weld bead - just ugly spatters and globs. I'm really at the point of no return on the driver's side. I have the welder set up on it's highest setting and I do have a few weld spots that look like they penetrated fairly well amoungst some spattery welds.

So how pretty does the welds have to be? Cause mine's ugly, but they SEEM like they're holding tight. It would take forever in a day to grind that mess out...

Just can't seem to weld upright like that without the metal globbing down due to gravity I guess. Where should I go from here?

EDIT: I'm trying to weld in Spohn SFC's (Old style boxed) to the sills. Can't wait to see how the other pieces weld up.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

what kind of welder is it? if its the el' cheapo one you can get from sears or who ever, then you probably wont have much luck. but if you can adjust the settings. sounds too me you have too much wire speed.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the reply...

It's a Clarke EN130. Gas or gasless, with 4 current settings and wire feed speed control. Using (or trying) to use flux core wire. Current is on highest setting, and speed is on 4 out of 10.

Seems as I increase wire speed, the spatters and blobs get worse, and if I slow it down, pops and cracking. I was hoping to lay a smoother bead over the whole ugly thing, but no luck.

Like I said, seems to be holding, but it's ugly and would take forever to try and grind the mess I made out, so how is it determined whether the weld is OK or not??

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

lower your heat alittle and then adjust the wire settings from there.

AlkyIROC

I hate flux core wire. My MIG uses gas.

#1 All metal must be very clean. Even new metal should be ground down. Grind everywhere on the floor that you're trying to weld to. Gid rid of all the paint, undercoat, oil, grease, dirt.

Underside or upside down welding is very hard to do. It just takes lots of practice to learn the proper heat and wire feed settings.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well according to the manual I got with the welder, for 1/8 inch mild steel the setting should be at "4".

Mine can use gas too, but most say flux core was easier for them, so I tried it....

Yeah, and I think I may have screwed up by not grinding/cleaning the back side of the sill lip. I just cleaned the area of the SFC and the outside part of the sill lip. I'll try cleaning up the other one better.

You got that right Stephen!! Try to lie on your side on a cold floor is NOT the ideal welding position - especially for a rookie like me to welding! But I thionk you're right - I need to keep practicing!

Thanks for the tips!!

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

clean the area where your goin to weld down to bare metal. forget the manual , get some scrap metal and test the settings on there to find where it works best. then go and try it on the car. now its goin to be diffent from goin from flat to overhead. you will need to add a bit more wire speed and also move alittle faster.

if youve never welded before, dont go doin sfc. start practicing. practicing doesnt make perfect. perfect practice makes perfect. learn how to fine tune the welder, and also if your welding the sfc to the floor pans like the spohn ones. try and keep most of the heat on the sfc , if you put to much on the floor pan you'll have a good chance of blowing thru the metal.

ive been welding since i was 15 and now being 21 working a full time welding job. you learn alot, i went to a technical school for welding. took the chorse for 3 out of the 4 yrs in highschool. all i can say if practice practice practice. if you cant get it in the beginning keep on trying. mig welding is the easiest thing to learn just gotta keep at it.

go to your local barns and nobel or car parts store that carries books. look for books one welding, ive heard some are really good and great to learn techniqes.


lol layin on a cold floor tryin to weld isnt bad, hang off of an i-beam and try and stick welding doing a vertical pass with 1 hand, now thats fun lol

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Just an update:

Been getting frustrated and procrastinating lately.

Timz2882 - Thanks for the advice, I did get some scrap metal approx. the same thickness of the SFC's (the older Spohn type), and I discovered that I have no problem doing nice welds on the scrap....but when I try to do the same thing on the actual SFC, it just doesn't work. That's where the frustration kicks in, and I have to take a break before I get too p*ssed off and do something stupid.

So - at least on the driver's side, I ended up not only putting a 1" weld every six inches along the lower sill, but I welded the areas in between in hopes that it'll hold. My inadaquate prep work is the issue I think. But I think I have enough decent welds that penetratred along with the crappy welds that hopefully will hold it.

So I'm making sure I grind down to bare shiny metal on the Pass. side SFC and BOTH sides of the lower sill, so hopefully it'll weld up better.

I've read other posts that says this is only a 2-3 hour job...I just don't see it unless you own a garage with a lift, you don't have to deal with bent up lower sills, and all the prep work is already done - then I'll buy into the 2-3 hour install time.

I also ordered a UMI wonderbar and non-adjustable torque arm that I'll need to put on after this. Then the engine's coming out for a rear seal replacement and retro-roller cam install. Wish me luck!! The way things have been going so far, I need it!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well, the job is finally done!

The passenger side wasn’t any easier, even though I carefully prepped it before welding. Again, I can put down a nice weld on scrap metal, but as soon as I touch the car itself with the welder, it spatters etc. – But I did do a better job overall.

I dug up some old paperwork on the car – (I’ve got stuff from when it was bought new), and found that the car was protected by “Davy Jones Rustproofing”…..I wonder if that was effecting my welding?

Anyways, I got them welded in and gave it a test run around the block a few times. The car seems much stiffer, T-tops don’t creak anymore either!!

Now when I tromp on the gas, the car doesn’t “twist” like it used to, which seems to allow the posi rear to grip a little better. I know I’ve heard that they get rid of rattles ets. In the interior – they helped no doubt, but I still have a few rattles and squeaks. But well worth the hassle overall!!

Shagwell

...the factory floor and subframes are galvanize dipped. Makes for a royal pain in the butt to get a good weld.