bigdavesiroc

in the process of putting in a k-member and just wanted to see others installed for wether or not i should just go with a plain black or colored one.......?

AlkyIROC

My car sits low enough to the ground that black was the best choice. The only time you would see the k-member is when the hood is open. Something with color needs to be kept clean or it starts to look dirty sooner.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

A side pic. I have more if you wanna see other angles. Just ask.

bigdavesiroc

is the k-member visable much from up top with the eng installed??? I was thinking of going all black on all my suspension pieces to try and keep it "stealthy"

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

depends what else you have in there. Normaly no, you really don't see it. If you want stealth def go with black.

SnkSknrZ28

iTrader: (2)

transam84

on a stock 3rd gen the right front brake line is bolted to the K member. do you reroute it to the firewall or something like that for a tubular K Member setup??

KagA152

iTrader: (5)

some people zip tie it to the k member, i mounted mine on the firewall with $0.25 nylon clips, ill get some pics if youd like

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I zip tied it to the K-member. Nice thick zips u can get from a hardware store. They have metal locking tabs. I would never second guess them. I might take some metal wire and wrap it around as a fail safe. Even though if they gave out, nothing would happen.

Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

snksknrz28, i notice that you went with a pa k-member. i was thinking about installing a tubular k-member when i swap my motor. i've heard of guys breaking their pa k-members with everyday driver cars. i'm just wondering if you drive it often and if you have ever had a problem with it.

Dizturbed One

Man that looks great, kudos to you, I'm envious.

Makes you want to rip that subframe out and paint it though, doesn't it? lol

Pitman arm, centerlinks, idler arms, and a steering box... Would clean that up alot, and put you on the road to looking showroom under there.

SnkSknrZ28

iTrader: (2)

I drive it alot, pretty much everywhere, to and from work, to the local 1/8th mile track, pulls the wheels, runs 6.9s NA and drive it home Then after stressful days at school or work i'll go out to car shows or just out cruising in general.. Kmember hasn't failed on me yet, street driving and track driving, i'm tossing quite a bit of power at it as well, still.... no failure.. Its a pretty beefy piece i'm happy, if nothign else it opens up ALOT of room under there

As for the rest of the underside, it will be cleaned up, i'm getting the PA manual steering rack, lowering and painting the springs, so that'll take care of the rest of the front end

Mike

chevymec

iTrader: (5)

What all is involved in installing the tubular K-member?Anything have to be cut off?

KagA152

iTrader: (5)

support the motor from the top (i guess you could use a jack), unbolt the motor mounts, brake tabs, a-arms ofcourse, then theres 6 bolts holding the k member in

Flatlne

how much weight do you think you saved?I was looking at the BMR setup.

bigdavesiroc

they are both to save 50lbs or so with the replacement of a-arms also.....thanks, wonderful pics by the way

chevymec

iTrader: (5)

So yours was a direct bolt-on, no welding or modifying?

bigdavesiroc

there should be no welding required. the stock one bolts in also

bigdavesiroc

snksknrz28 are those hedman headers or hookers??? i got my a-arms today in the mail. now it's time to get the k-member!!yea

IHI

iTrader: (1)

snksknr: you really need to get yourself that WolfeCraft anti roll bar for the rear of the car....I noticed a HUGE difference going from air bags to the anti roll bar!! Car leaves dead level and 60's are VERY consistant now, went from moving.01-.02 depending on track conditions to .001-.004

WELL worth the money and trouble, but there are some areas I would redo to make it beefier to the car mounting points.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Huh, that’s a change… I thought that originally it sounded like you weren’t really sure it was worth the effort, that it felt better but your 60’s were about the same.

Are they still about the same just more consistent or are they getting better as you figure out how to tune the bar/suspension to work together?

I’m thinking that air bags are more practical for the average driver, since you can set your car up to handle and just leave them empty on the street… where the really stiff bar, even if set with no preload will result in over steer on the street.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

After spending time with it, and racing 3 other tracks a few different times other than my home track, found out most of my 60' troubles were track related due to poor prep and shiity electronics, home track I'd move and still move quite a bit in the 60's, by quite a bit I'm talking about .01-.02 throughout the day.

All the other tracks, the 60's looked like ti was zeroxed all day long....actual track testing different tracks was another one of my secret agendas this year and what I have been guessing turned out to be true, my home track sucks and next year will be running a different track all together until they get their politics, track, equipment, and electronics under control. You know it's not good when the manager is chuckling about how how one of the crrew accidently kicked the sensor and they did'nt reset it, 2 weeks later found out sensor had moved 1/2" which is HUGE!!!

The bar works great, completely does it's job as intended when raced on a track that gives a hoot about the surface/electronics to insure every run is as consistant as the last.

It is still too much hit on the tires when combined with the short torque arm, so I will either be extending the current one, fabbing a new one, or whatever else I can dream up once the car's in the air.

bigdavesiroc

ttt

radialtireking

bigdavesiroc

just ordered my pa racing k-member...so hopefully it comes within a descent time. i want to start putting my darn car together..i am stoked!

bigdavesiroc

just ordered my pa racing k-member...so hopefully it comes within a descent time. i want to start putting my darn car together..i am stoked!

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Radialtireking-very nice set-up I like all the trick goodies under there

84z28350

Yes that is a very beautiful setup

Xophertony

where do you even buy these. summit does not seem to cary them? i am in the planning stages of an engine swap and plan on doing this as well.

thanks

IHI

iTrader: (1)

First one has K member and other components, others have misc. things. Jegs is carrying the AJE tubular K member I believe.Call and ask them or try searching their website/catalog cuz I know I've seen one in there.

http://www.profabracing.homestead.com/our_products.html

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/Search...?CategoryID=18

http://www.roadsters.com/chassis/

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Can you guys post that pic that radialtireking posted on TGO. Hosted here, cuz I can't see it for some reason, and after IHI says there is some good stuff inder there, I REALLY wanna see what you guys are talkng about.

if anyone has a minute to do that, Thank you.

Xophertony

thanks guys

Xophertony

more questions....
is there a set that will allow you to use both stock springs and coilover?

not at the same time (duh) but i mean i want to do an engine swap. so i was thinking put in kmember swap engine, use stock springs for a while, then convert to coil over later if i feel the need. (this will also allow me not to spend an assload of money right at the same time.)

will the PA one allow for that, that thing looks alot more sturdy then the one jegs has.

thanks guys.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Any K-member can go coilover. The set-up has nothing to do with the memeber. As well as the A-arms. The coilover is ment to replace coil springs. So if you have coil springs and then go to coilover it doesn't matter if your A-arms are set up for springs or coilovers.

In short all your stock stuff can go coilover, all aftermarket stuff duplicates stock locations of things so therefore all your aftermarket stuff can go coilover.

The only time u can not use springs and have to go coilover is if you buy specific coil-over A-arms and K-member. These are the same parts as the "normal" ones exept they leave out the spring pockets. Thats it.

radialtireking

If you want to use stock springs make sure you order a k-member and arms with those provisions. I do not have stock spring pockets on mine. PA and other companies sell them both ways.

Xophertony

thats why i asked, i saw one that said "coilover only" and it got me to wondering if the others couldent do coilover. thanks

also, you CAN NOT use stock a-arms ona tube kmember correct? you need to get tube aarms as well right?

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

sweet pic radialtireking!!! I like the r&p steering, what did it take to convert, and how much weight did you save after converting?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Weight is not why people do the convertion. Just find the weight of a generic R&P, and weigh your stock stuff. People go to R&P for the reliability and eas of instalation and uninstalation.

The K-member that was bought came with the tabs. Converting consists of installing the k-memeber, then bolting the rack on it, done...

radialtireking

If you think the rack weighs the same as a cast iron steering box I think your scale is off.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I know that they have differnt weights, geez. I have held both kinds of set ups in my hands b 4. I have a lightweight aluminum maunal box on mine. There is weight savings, no question, but I just don't think that is why people go out and do this mod, IMO.

radialtireking

I guess I misunderstood your post. Sorry man.

If I were to do it over again I would keep my S10 manual box though. The turning radius is greatly reduced with the pinto rack. It kinda sucks on the street. I had to add weight to my car to make minimum weight for the drag radial class i run this season anyways.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Oh wow. What was the weight you had your car at, and what did it have to be?

I have a flaming river manual box. kinda pricey but if you don't mind paying, it is a nice piece. Still have not had a chance to use it. (Car is not done yet).

radialtireking

My class minimum is 3200 with driver. I was 3210 with 5 gallons of fuel and a half empty nitrous bottle. I put 30 pounds in the car to be safe if the tracks scale and my home scales were not in agreement. Last time at the track it went across the scales at 3232. One nice thing is I took weight off the front and put it on the rear. The car is 51/49% front to rear bias. I just took off my power booster and electric vaccum pump that were running my brakes. Thats another 20 pounds off the front that i will move to the rear.

I have a friend with the flaming river box. It is a nice piece.

Blake

iTrader: (2)

how much to spend on this k-member upgrade as well as the necciasry tubular control arms?


how hard is it to take out old one? I just ripped out my v6( dont worry I never drove it ) and am taking stuff off, brakes lines etc so I can paint the engine bay, i woud like to paint everything of course however by the looks of it to get some of that stuff off you'd need a sand blaster. but noticed there were bolts on the k member, is that all there is to it?


cheers

blake

chevymec

iTrader: (5)

Anybody tried to take off the oil pan with the k-members?

bigdavesiroc

well it's been three weeks now since i ordered my k-member from pa, still not here yet. i sure hope it comes within the next week. how long did it take you guys to get your pa k-member?

bigdavesiroc

finally got the k-member, it's going in this week, ya hoo!

bigdavesiroc

well i got the k-member in, but before i did so i weighed it compared to the stock one. total wt. savings of 29lbs. mine had the spring perches, no rack, mild steel and motor mounts. so there is more to loose if i were to go with the rack and all. not too difficult just glad i got the installation bolt kit. 4 of the 6 stock bolts will not be reusable for those out there. also painted eng bay satin black. i am actually happy with that also. pics to come. thanks for all your guy's help and pics. dave

TheMysticWizard

iTrader: (1)

I think you guys just convinced me to go for a new k-member and control arms.

I was planning on painting my stock stuff, and rebuilding my front end... but I really like the looks of the tubular k-member.

Nice Pix guys!

Zedsled

haha..yea they got me too..I wont be doing A-arms for a while..i'm doing a T-56 swap instead.

Now should i go for the PA racing K-member or the Profab K-member