dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

ok so i am trying to stuff 335's under my car. I have a 12 bolt and 9blot disk brakes out back.

I obviously want them to tuck up in there, but that is really hard to do. I am gonna have to either get wide body quarters, like they sell at that danko site, or "massage the inner fender wells more and have my spacers machined down so that that the wheels keep moving in till they fit just right. Anyways, just wanted to see if you guys had any other ideas of how to get these things to fit.



The car will have a 500 HP 383. It is a 100 % street car and it will go ot the track on Camaro day and super chevy shows once a year. I just have allways loved the feeling I get when i see cars that have massive rear tires, I don't care how logical it is or not.


Oh by the way I know many people will call my idea stupid, if you feel that way by all means let me know, but try and help me out too if you can. THX

Go to my site if you wanna see a ton of pics 150+ pics of the buildup.

Here is how it site so far.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

dunno about that pic workin. lemme try again.

CaysE

Tub the rear.

92MaroRS

Seen a new C6 running them, bad combo, tire hit fender, and cracked it, BAD.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

i think i will tub it. J/k...haha

As for the tire hitting the fender. I think if I install a bump stop at the right hight. Just before the wheel has a chance to hit the quarter, I should be all set.

But then again lets not forget I said I wanna get them to at least fit under the body, I don't really care if the *** of the car has to be a little higher to do it. The rear fender hitting the tire is not what I am affraid of, or am having problems with.

For now it is just the issue of getting the tires under there.


little side note: I acctually dpn't even mind the slight "stick out", but I know it would look cooler to have the wheels entirly under the car.

Another pic of the meats...

CrazyHawaiian

I'm sure you can do it though I wouldnt know what specs to use. I think it would require modifying both the inner and outer fenderwells, as well as rolling the lip, and maybe even rolling the fender. You would probably have to give yourself some ammount of fendergap to prevent rubbing (so no slamming it). There was a user on here that ran 12" wide wheels in the back with 335's, cant remember his name though. Maybe try a search.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

WOW thanks man. You are def the first REAL help about this that I have run into so far. i will do that search. And yeah I have moded to the inner wheel well, I know i am gonna roll or cut that lip and then i dunno what else. Might have to put some stock springs back there, or spacers to jack the *** up. We will see once i get mt Temec 6 spd and 383.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

From the looks of it, the actual rim is sticking out from the fender. So if you want to use those rims, narrow the rear. My suggestion, buy different rims to set the tire in farther, which would req' a mini tub.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

The rim is sticking out a bit, but I have billet spacers that can get machined, so narrowing the rear would never be needed. As for minitub.....has anyone ever seen a third gen minitubed. I have seen and read about first gens doing it, cuz the way the suspention is set up. you really can't just tub the area back there. you have relocate the springs/go to coil over maybe. And then possibly relocate the shocks too. Tons of custom work cuz there is def no one out threre that sells some sort of kit.


Well thx for the suggestions.

Main things to remember.....
-The rear doesn't need to get narower, cuz it is allready getting WIDENED by the spacers (2")
-The spacers can get machined down to "suck" the wheels in.
-The rim right now is inches away from the spring in there. I will post pics when i get home.

Thats all i can think of right now. Hope someone out there has done this before and can chime in.

nape

iTrader: (1)

Before you machine the spacers, just make sure there is enough material on whichever face you want to mill.

I'm not a ME so I can't tell you what's acceptable and what's not, but just be careful. That's one thing that's holding me off from taking some 17" wheels on the track, I can't get myself in the mindset to trust spacers.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Ah yeah. I acctually am a ME. Well not yet, hehe. I am in school to be one. I will do some annalisis at some point and figure out if it hould be safe or not. Once the car is done I will bring it to school, and take a spacer off for testing too. Either way, if you wanna go to the track it might be better to just use crappy wheels and racing tires. That is what I am gonna do.

I wish i had pics from behind the spacer, but there is a good chunk that is able to be taken off. If not i can allways buy slimmer spacers

askulte

Dennis,
If you've got our billet wheel adapters, it's no problem to swap them out for a thinner size. Machining them thinner isn't suggested, since that will lose material at either the stud seat or the lugnut seat, both of which have specific thicknesses specified for the proper strength.

As for strength of wheel adapters, we've never had any of our ever break, in over thousand sold. I have torn my driveshaft in half, snapped axles, and broken torque arms, but the adapters took the punishment just fine. There's more material there than it seems, which distributes the stress evenly, so just as strong as the hub. Quite a few customers (myself included) use them for road racing too...

A local f-body guy here in CT (Steve Soares, also on TGO) has a third-gen firebird, and modified (cut away, partially? I haven't seen it yet) the inside sheetmetal by the lower control arms, to tuck the wheels in a bit more.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Here is a pic of the major piece that I had to cut out so far.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

And here it is mocked in there. You can see the wheel getting close to the wall there.

soulbounder

There is a member that goes by the name of BassetRacing that has 335's on his car. It's been a while since I've seen them but I do remember they tucked nicely and looked good. Might be worth getting in touch with him if he's still around.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

THX a ton. I will do a search.

nape

iTrader: (1)

Andris,

What are the big differences in wheel adapters? I wish I would've bought yours so I know I can trust them, but I bought some $150 ebay specials when I was "saving a buck"

Anything I should look for to see if I should be worried? All the lug nut tapers seem fine and the spacers are round, but I'd like to know of any problem areas.

Also, do you pull the wheels off between sessions and torque the adapter lug nuts? I always re-torque the lug nuts on my current wheels right before the next session because they always loosen a bit.

TIA for any help.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Interesting...... i would like to know about these problem spots too. And if mine seem to have them, then i would be happy to pay for the skule ones. I got mine on ebay for less than 100 bucks a pair.

TransAm12sec

Do not cut the fender lip.

Quote from LS1tech.com

"Yes, the lip is part of the structural make up of the quarter, dont cut it.

The quarter panel itself is a large part of the structural make up of the rear on the fourth gens. This is why we all get the little dimples above the wheel opening and at the rear base of the roof cap."

Useful post

Search more on LS1 tech, they have lots of useful info on fitting wide tires in back.

What are the specs on the wheels?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

They are 17X9.5 in front and 17X11 out back. tires are 275's up front and 335's out back.

As for backspacing and offset and things like that.....I am not home, so I do not have them in front of me, but they are Identical to the ZR1 corvette rims. Let me check skule, they have all the measurements there.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Corvette ZR1 style (High Offset) 17x9.5 56mm 7.4" 2.25"
Corvette ZR1 style (High Offset) 17x11 50mm 7.93" 2" Rear


Those are the specs of my wheels. I got that from Skulte website. The last # is the spacer recomendation. I have 2" all around. I know it might not work, but if the front rubs i have no problem selling the 2" ones and getting the 2.25" ones. Just found a super cheap deal on the front ones on ebay, so no biggie if they don't work.

Side note, i will post a pick of the 12 bolt with the wheels on it, looks helariouse. (at work, will post when i get home) You guys should get a kick out of it.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

TransAm12sec.....not too sure why u wanted the specs but there they are. And what is this about not rolling the lip? You say it will decreawse my structural strength?? Not sure if I am buying that....

askulte

Nape,
The differences could be:

1. Quality of the material - often the very cheap adapters may not actually be using real 6061 aluminum as stated, but a cheaper substitute that is either cast, or still machined, but not as strong. The adapter may deform under load, requiring frequent re-torquing.

2. Tolerances - we've had folks call complaining about vibrations which were traced to Ebay adapters that aren't machined perfectly. If the bolt circles for the hub and studs aren't concentric, it can result in vibrations. Also, improper machining for the studs can cause either loose studs, or the opposite, where the stud knurl is too large, resulting in the aluminum getting over-stressed when the stud is pressed in. Lugnut seat angles are important too, so the adapter gets properly torqued and seated. If it's not, the lugnut tightens on one edge of the lugnut seat, which deforms the aluminum over time, requiring re-torquing.

3. Quality of hardware - Is brand name Grade 10.9 metric or Grade 8 SAE hardware used, from reliable wholesalers or could they be counterfeit studs and lugnuts?

4. Customer service - Can you return or exchange them for a different size? Does the company respond quickly to make sure the customer is happy? Can you always get the same person that understands your vehicle and requirements? How quickly do you get them?

I've never needed to re-torque the adapters after the initial 5 mile break-in. Are you using anti-seize on the studs and lugnuts (not on the seat)? That gives a much more consistent and reliable torque reading.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Mine are said to 6061. I believe them too. I can not prove it but oh well, if they break I will buy the skule ones. I know they are probably better, but at the time when I was buying them I had no $, so I went the cheapest rout possible.

nape

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info, Andris. I'll keep a close eye on the ones I have and probably end up buying yours if I decide to race on them. It'd be my own dumb fault for wrecking my own car, but I don't want to take out someone else's because I cheaped out.

TransAm12sec

The link describes it.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...7&page=1&pp=20

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I will roll my lip. My car is gonna get painted. What is the best way to do it, when you don't care about the paint?

TransAm12sec

Eastwood

Or find someone you can borrow it from. LS1tech.com has more info on rolling fenders, just do a search there.

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

i definately wouldn't cut his adapters.. i did that when i had 2.5's running my +65 18x9.5 z06 wheels. they were .25 too far out and it caused me alot of issues even that little bit of shaving. not to mention expense.

it really depends on how you look at it but in theory a 335 would sit on a 12-12.5" rim if things were correct. to do so properly your looking in the ball park of a 8.25-8.75 backspacing which is pretty severe. anything over 6.75 backspacing will require cutting like you've already posted and then some. 6.75 is about the furthest you can safely go in and not do alot of hacking. this will give you a 295 with the right sidewall profile and allow you to set the car on the ground which is important for suspension travel not only up and down but left to right.

i admire what your doing, i think with the mini tub it would look great and the right wheel but you've got alot of fabrication to do to get it right...

in the mean time i leave you with this... definately not a look anyone will try to duplicate. hope you figure it out as if it's done right it could look very nice. until then good luck.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I know I am not exaclty taking the road most traveled here. I am DEFINETLY not gonna let my car look like the one in the pic. I will continue cutting this weekend and see how much more clearance i can get. I plan to drive around with something more like 315's. These will fit on the 11" rims better.


But honestly, thanks for not just saying it is a stupid idea. I really think i can get this to work. Later...i gotta a lot of work to do.