For those with lowered cars and LCA relocation brackets...
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
if its lowered enough that the axle half of the LCA is higher then the chasis side, then get the relocation brackets... 99% of lowered cars just need the upper hole of the brackets... only really slammed cars need the bottom hole to even them out.
#6
I have the Sportlines and I use the bottom mounting hole. These really made a difference in how the car felt at speed. Before the car's rear felt like it was trembling,after it was rock solid and traction was much improved. I've never tried the upper position since I was pleased with the lower.
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Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
What about for drag use? Any downside to using the bottom hole? Could you get less traction by going to far?
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
where are the different places to get LCA relocation brackets? i know Spohn sells them for $65.. what are some other manufacturers and their prices?
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Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Originally posted by BretD 88GTA
Global West ($98.99) and BMR ($79.99 for weld-in. $119.99 for bolt-in.)
Global West ($98.99) and BMR ($79.99 for weld-in. $119.99 for bolt-in.)
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Free Bird
What about for drag use? Any downside to using the bottom hole? Could you get less traction by going to far?
What about for drag use? Any downside to using the bottom hole? Could you get less traction by going to far?
one, if its too extreme, you could shove the wheels down really hard on the launch, and have them "spring back" and unload about 10-15 feet out of the hole.... it'll feel like a good hook, followed by a spin/breaking loose
two, if its too far off, when you hit the brakes at the end of the track, the rears will want to lift off the ground, so they just slide and your braking distance increases.
a third smaller side effect is that the farther from level they are, less efficent the LCAs can be at transmmitting movement... but honestly, ive never seen that shown in a timeslip... moving them effects too much else to quantify that....
#16
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Originally posted by MrDude_1
one, if its too extreme, you could shove the wheels down really hard on the launch, and have them "spring back" and unload about 10-15 feet out of the hole.... it'll feel like a good hook, followed by a spin/breaking loose
one, if its too extreme, you could shove the wheels down really hard on the launch, and have them "spring back" and unload about 10-15 feet out of the hole.... it'll feel like a good hook, followed by a spin/breaking loose
two, if its too far off, when you hit the brakes at the end of the track, the rears will want to lift off the ground, so they just slide and your braking distance increases.
a third smaller side effect is that the farther from level they are, less efficent the LCAs can be at transmmitting movement... but honestly, ive never seen that shown in a timeslip... moving them effects too much else to quantify that....
Another disadvantage is that they cause roll oversteer (on corner entry) and exit understeer which is exactly the opposite of what most people expect and what is generally fast.
My $.02:
- for road race/autox and most street use, you really want the backs of the LCA’s slightly higher then the front to give the best characteristics with turns
- compromise street/handling/dragstrip – perpendicular to the ground or _slightly_ down on the axle side. This is where you want to be if you run drag radials or street radials at the dragstrip
- on real drag tires (soft sidewalls, slicks, cheater slicks…) you want to adjust the axle end downward as your sidewalls get softer. At some point you’ll actually reach a point where you’ll actually only need the rear springs to support the car before it starts moving and under power the antisquat action of the rear suspension will actually be able to hold the back end of the car up.
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Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
perpendicular to the ground or _slightly_ down on the axle side.
perpendicular to the ground or _slightly_ down on the axle side.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
why would that happen?
why would that happen?
when you hit the brakes, they're pulling backwards relitive to the chassis, and that makes the wheel want to go up....
im still not sure about why myself... you would think the wheel going up would let the car down, and lessen the nose pitching down, but it really just lets the rear end skid easier..
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by MrDude_1
im still not sure about why myself... you would think the wheel going up would let the car down, and lessen the nose pitching down, but it really just lets the rear end skid easier..
im still not sure about why myself... you would think the wheel going up would let the car down, and lessen the nose pitching down, but it really just lets the rear end skid easier..
Its a really hard thing to explain in text of course, I can visualize it, and feel it though.
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