csi1286

going to replace struts soon and need to know how to check the upper strut mounts. I think they need to be replaced 136000 miles on the car. So if anyone has ones in any good shape leave a response as they are insanely expensive new.

Also does anyone know of an all inclusive reasonably priced rubber suspension bushing kit? I think i definitely need sway bar end bushings and those rubber bumpers that im not really sure what their called but their split in half...

on a somewhat unrelated note, anyone know of a reasonably prced lower door hinge or have one in good shape and/or know how the door side part attaches?

thanks
steve

Bunker82

For a stock replacement strut mount, I am replacing mine in a few days and found that at rockauto.com I can get two new ones shipped for $100. You might look into that.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Check the following link for more info:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=183622

Spohn sells both the mounts and retainers.

JamesC

drop-top IROC

Lon at TDS (see banner ad at top of page) sells all kinds of stuff for repairing/replacing door hinge hardware.

For sway bar end bushings, I went with the 1LE replacement end links. I believe they're still available from GM, but the part number escapes me...

csi1286

thank you all. Im much obliged.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Here is the GM part # for the 1LE endlinks, 10221779. While I've completely rebuilt the suspension components in the following pic, I continue to use the 1LE end links. I like the way they fit the sway bar and a-arm.

JamesC

f1ls1

iTrader: (2)

FYI the 1LE end link part # is 464167 The part # sold to you is for the 4th gen Z28 not the 1LE.

drop-top IROC

Then apparently I, too, have the 4th gen end links in my IROC, since the part # on the packaging was 10221779. Either way, me likey...

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I researched the 1LE stuff several years ago, and the following are the part numbers that I came up with:

36 mm front sway: 14094344
Front bushings: 14094389
24 mm rear sway: 10035033
Rear bushings: 10037104
and as I mention above, the end links: 10221779

Here's a pic from Top-Down:

http://www.Top-DownSolutions.com/pro...ce969eb7070cae

Looks the same to me. Also, I ran the above part # on GMPartsDirect, and again it appears to be the same there as well.

Whatever the case may be, the end links work perfectly. Me likey too

Curiosity got the better of me, so I went searching (1LE and 10221779) and found many hits to include these links: http://www.xious.com/camaro/parts-1le.html
http://www.evlls1.com/gmparts.html

And this single hit when I searched with 1LE and 464167: ... to 10221779 1LE Camaro, packaged as a kit of 2 links (ACDelco item, replacement for OE 464167 from Parts ...

JamesC

f1ls1

iTrader: (2)

Well I thought you might be interested in having the correct part,But if you happy with what you have than that's all that matters. GM will tell you that the replacement part you have is the correct one when it really isn't. The correct part comes with very hard polyurathane bushings. The 4th gen links you have on your car are very soft in comparison.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I have no experience with the end links that you mention, so I have no means of comparison, but I do know that the 10221779's that I'm currently running are very, very hard. I'm satisfied. Thanks for the imput.

JamesC

csi1286

OK i know you uys are figuring why havent i done the swap yet and the answer is time constraints. but few questions:

how did that work out was it the entire uppermount assembly?
Were they the Dorman #665803 and #665804?

Also ive never done a strut replacement so i found some instructions online although i figured it would be easy except it says i have to remove the brake line... that true? if so do i need to bleed it? also does the swaybar end link need to be removed? maybe someone could just give me a 3rd gen specific method... thanks guys.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

You dont have to "remove" the break line. But it does have one bolt/mount holding the line to the strut. A 13mm wrench/socket-ratchet combo makes quick care of that.

As for strut remove. When I do mine, I support the car on stands. Then place my jack under the control arm tell it just touches. Then start taking bolts loose, and then lower the jack SLOWLY untell strut can be removed. No futher then needed or you take more chance of the spring popping out.

Cant recall if I take the swaybar loose, but I belive I do have to

Bunker82

Turns out that it was going to take too long to ship it, but I was going to get the Dorman mounts. I don't recall the part numbers but it is listed on the Rock Auto site under strut mounts, and so I believe you have it correct. It is the entire upper mount which has a steel body with rubber in the center and a bearing in the middle of the rubber. Good thing I decided to replace it because my old ones were cracked half way around the circumference of the rubber part! I ended up just going to Kragen and paid $70 each and got it in a day since I was under time pressures.

Maybe someone else can chime in about what to do to just replace that strut. I just rebuilt my entire front suspension, so I had it all in pieces. When the instructions say you have to unbolt the brake line I think they are just talking about the bolt from the strut to a brake hose bracket. So you wouldn't need to bleed the system (although if it has been a few years, it might be a good idea to flush the system). The thing you have to worry about on a thirdgen is that the strut keeps the spring compressed. You need to use a coil spring compressor or maybe just keep the jack under the control arm to keep the spring from getting out of control, or both ways to be safe. Other than that it is two large spindle to strut bolts, one aforementioned brake line bracket to strut bolt, and three strut mount bolts under the hood. Then lift the old strut/strut mount out the top. Realize that when the new strut goes in the two strut to spindle bolts need to be torqued to 195 ft lbs. so make sure you have access to a torque wrench that goes that high.

And for the archive, I read on the boards that there were two different versions of the bracket that holds the three studs that the strut mount bolts on to. Well I went to the junkyard and pulled one from an '88 and then compared that to an '82 and a '91 or '92. All the same part. So I didn't bother getting another one. But when my replacement mount came from Kragen, sure enough it didn't quite fit. So I did what any frustrated mechanic would do...grab a big hammer and beat it. Fixed that problem real quick.

csi1286

awesome thanks to both. Im gonna order the Dorman mounts tonight and i should get them by next weekend the anticipated crunch date for this project. Im gonna get new endlinks too although the rubber doesnt look bad. The bolt looks a little rusty though so if i have to force/cut it off, ill have replacements at hand. gonna go with the 1LE from TDS for those though screwin' myself in shipping ordering from 2 places...but thats life rockauto only has moog and stuff. thanks again. steve.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Bunker,

I'm surprised that the two were the same. Not what I found at all. Check my link above for the differences I found. Oops, misread, sorry.

JamesC

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

How much are you paying for the 1LEs? I got my ES endlinks for $15 for the set (for one swaybar).

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/pro...8d18d4f24d8d7c

Note the greaseable swaybar bushings as well. I bought from GM, which as I recall was cheaper, but of course they weren't zinced either.

JamesC

84z4me

http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?&keyword= by Keyword&p=search&cat_id=11&manuf_id=3&submit_x=74&submit_y=15&PHPSESSID=4b067b3fa9f7ade988cf35e8fe90ac6a&catcount=2&cat_id=11&sub_id=28&catcount=

Ive installed these in mine and for the prce ya can't beat em.

Kennerz

For the record,

F1ls1 is right those are 4thgen end links, they made a 4th gen 1LE, as well as a thirdgen 1LE.

Those endlinks look exactly the same as the one's I pulled off of my SS, replaced with ES bushings on the front,

I have Iroc FE2 bushings on my Z , some were a faded yellowed white, some came in blue, I put the extra one's I had onthe rear sway of my SS. The 3rd gen 1LE Iroc bushings are about as hard as it gets, If you can still but them - I don't think you can do any better for the price- not sure if there obsolete or not yet - anyhow they do provide a better feel than the 4th gen links - no comparison - and I have used both.

- by the way back on the topic - I have an 88- which replacement strut tower part # do I need for a direct fit from rock auto?