Opinions on these subframe connectors...
#1
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Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 380 sbc
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11
Opinions on these subframe connectors...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
Anyone have experience with these, or have opinions on them. They aren't "name brand" but names dont really mean crap to me.
Anyone have experience with these, or have opinions on them. They aren't "name brand" but names dont really mean crap to me.
#2
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They are the same design as Alstons, which just connect the front and rear frame rails. Personally, I would consider perimeter style SFCs like Spohns before making a purchasing decision; the Spohns provide more welding points to the car, four-piece bracing instead of the two seen here, and will not sacrifice your ground clearance like the Alston style will.
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Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 380 sbc
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11
Ground clearance is not an issue for me at all.
They look simmilar to the competition engineering ones I think... does anyone else think so?
They look simmilar to the competition engineering ones I think... does anyone else think so?
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Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
They look like perimeter style to me. The one with the bend goes on the passenger side and doesn't look like enough of a bend to go over the exhaust like my alstons do.
#5
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by CaysE
They are the same design as Alstons, which just connect the front and rear frame rails. Personally, I would consider perimeter style SFCs like Spohns before making a purchasing decision; the Spohns provide more welding points to the car, four-piece bracing instead of the two seen here, and will not sacrifice your ground clearance like the Alston style will.
They are the same design as Alstons, which just connect the front and rear frame rails. Personally, I would consider perimeter style SFCs like Spohns before making a purchasing decision; the Spohns provide more welding points to the car, four-piece bracing instead of the two seen here, and will not sacrifice your ground clearance like the Alston style will.
#6
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Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 380 sbc
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11
Exhaust clearance means absolutly nothing to me either.
If I had the tools and knowledge I'd just buy the ones that require you to notch the floor pan, but I cant.
I dont care what brand these look like. I just want to know if they would be worth the money.
If I had the tools and knowledge I'd just buy the ones that require you to notch the floor pan, but I cant.
I dont care what brand these look like. I just want to know if they would be worth the money.
#7
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Not worth the money. They have no triangulation. There is no mention of the square tubing size or thickness. I would not trust that they are made from thick enough steel. Overall it looks like someone attempt to make a buck off of substandard materials.
For $55 more, http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1309 , you get round tubing thicker DOM and seamless. Plus you are getting trangulation. These are far superior and worth the little extra cost. I would not waste my money on the Ebay knockoffs.
For $55 more, http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1309 , you get round tubing thicker DOM and seamless. Plus you are getting trangulation. These are far superior and worth the little extra cost. I would not waste my money on the Ebay knockoffs.
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Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
I've heard those are actually decent for the money. Then again, those have gone up in price a bit.
I know the Spohn's are good, but what about competition engineering boltins? I can get a set of those for $130 shipped..
I know the Spohn's are good, but what about competition engineering boltins? I can get a set of those for $130 shipped..
Last edited by DuronClocker; 12-01-2004 at 02:14 PM.
#11
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Originally posted by Z28racer
Those are outboard mount, NOT inboard like alstons
Those are outboard mount, NOT inboard like alstons
Originally posted by Z28racer
have you installed a set or been in a car with alston / mac subframes ?
have you installed a set or been in a car with alston / mac subframes ?
Last edited by CaysE; 12-01-2004 at 03:28 PM.
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by KiLLJ0Y
anyone have a picture with the spohns on their car?
im trying to see what ones i want. i was going to buy the ones Lon @ TDS sells, but i have not seen many SFC from other companies.
anyone have a picture with the spohns on their car?
im trying to see what ones i want. i was going to buy the ones Lon @ TDS sells, but i have not seen many SFC from other companies.
#14
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Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 380 sbc
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11
Originally posted by DuronClocker
I've heard those are actually decent for the money. Then again, those have gone up in price a bit.
I know the Spohn's are good, but what about competition engineering boltins? I can get a set of those for $130 shipped..
I've heard those are actually decent for the money. Then again, those have gone up in price a bit.
I know the Spohn's are good, but what about competition engineering boltins? I can get a set of those for $130 shipped..
#15
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Car: 89 Camaro IROC
Originally posted by KiLLJ0Y
anyone have a picture with the spohns on their car?
im trying to see what ones i want. i was going to buy the ones Lon @ TDS sells, but i have not seen many SFC from other companies.
anyone have a picture with the spohns on their car?
im trying to see what ones i want. i was going to buy the ones Lon @ TDS sells, but i have not seen many SFC from other companies.
Anyone running Hotchkis?
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Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
I got them and I like them. Just drill the holes in the rales before you put them in the car. Would probably be a good idea to weld the big metal plates that go inside the car to the sheet metal in the floor.
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I got hotchkis and im about to cut them off today cause im getting a custom 8 point CM Roll Bar. I also might have them make me some sfc's and weld the roll bar to them but havnt decided yet cause im sure with just the roll bar it will be 10x's better then the Hotchkis sfc's.
#18
My recommendation is probably the most expensive option to go for, but if ground clearance and exhaust routing are not a problem for you, then I highly recommend that you go with S&W Racecars SFC's. I installed them in my 92 Z-28, n' the stuff works awesome. I also go the matching torque arm that mounts to the SFCs instead of the tranny. Here's sum pics:
The set-up will take up quite a bit a ground clearance regardless of what S&W says. the larger exhaust tubing required that we add a slight bend to the piping to clear. and we had to modify the crossmember that connects the two SFCs together so that we wouldn't lose so much ground clearance. That's not a required step, but my dad decided to do just so we would have more clearance... speed bumps and steep driveways aren't a problem now that the stock springs are back in place.
Next time the car is completely jack up, I'll snap some pics of the finished install w/the modified crossmember n' finished exhaust.
The set-up will take up quite a bit a ground clearance regardless of what S&W says. the larger exhaust tubing required that we add a slight bend to the piping to clear. and we had to modify the crossmember that connects the two SFCs together so that we wouldn't lose so much ground clearance. That's not a required step, but my dad decided to do just so we would have more clearance... speed bumps and steep driveways aren't a problem now that the stock springs are back in place.
Next time the car is completely jack up, I'll snap some pics of the finished install w/the modified crossmember n' finished exhaust.
#20
oh, yeah... forgot to mention that the exhaust piping doesn't go under the crossmember. it's just hanging in the picture cuz it's not done. the pipe actually goes ABOVE the crossmember, past the driveshaft loop.
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