porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

ok guys, i dont know jack about suspension...havent taken that class yet at school, so heres my question on my iroc i want to pull over 1g constant in lateral acceleration is there a way to do this without lowering the car?

i dont care about streetable or not i want the best handling car,

i want to go to the dragraces, and autocross, than head up to laguna secca, and still take a cruise down the street.

rx7speed

your going to have to make a choice
good drag race car and good handling car don't always go hand in hand

also pulling 1g on the skidpad doesn't mean you have the best handling either. all that 1g on skidpad means is your car can handle a static loading of the car. but lets say you are putting up a whopping 60mph on the skidpad your kinda screwed if it comes to canyon carver style driving being that there is no long steady turns (where a skidpad might help out) but instead all turns that don't really let the car settle that well and your can can't make the transition

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Correct and correct. You can pull 1G yet have a car that has limited transistion. You want a balance of both. Luckily, most thirdgens that can pull upwards of 1g can also perform well when it comes to transitions. A bolt on suspension (SFC's, adj panhard rod, LCA's, sway bars, STB, wonderbar, lowering springs) combined with stikcy 9" wide tires is enough to make your skull press into the side of your window. It is scary fun.

VILeninDM

"How to Make your Car Handle" by Fred Puhn from HPBooks. Cheap book, relatively short and very nice read. You'll learn pretty much all you'll ever want to know about modifying your suspension. Probably a little short of being able to engineer your own chassis/suspension, but I doubt you'll be doing that.

vsixtoy

Not on street tires- Only on racing rubber. I have the only "tested" 3rd gen I have ever seen to pull in excess of 1g on street tires and I have extensive work done to fabbing & setting this car including a lightweight V6 that gives me far better front /rear weight bias than any V8 including an LS1.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

ive seen some around third gen with proven 1.06 latteral

would i be better of converting to independent rear suspension??

vsixtoy

Yeah, On racing tires. I gaurantee they are not doing that on street tires. Show me pictures of a car that you claim to be pulling over 1g on street tires- I would love to see it and what is done to it. Weight is the major factor- the car has to be lightened and balanced.

rx7speed

if you really want to pull 1g or more find a 93 rx7 r1
around .99-1.01g on stock street tires
around high 67 to I think I heard a 70ish but I almost doubt that high again stock street tires that came on the car
and can be upgraded to do a little better then that

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

i know it cant be that hard our cars come close stock they are anywhere from .88g-.91g in tests ive seen in old magazines

vsixtoy

roadrace shocks and racing tires will give you .10 gain on an IROC from the factory. However, all the suspension mods in the world will not give you that on street tires unless you alter and lighten the chassis weight. Those same shocks and street tires will only give you about a .02-.03 gain. You can almost pull 1g in ANYTHING with racing rubber.

Its a long way to 1G from .91 with street tires.

rx7speed

easily in agreement with you there vsixtoy

only reason the rx7 with the r1 package gets the 1g is due to the what 2700-2800lb curb weight with a very balanced weight distro, fairly low center of gravity, tight firm body that doesn't flex much, and fairly tuned suspension. thing that shocks me though is street tires and I think 225 width tires.... maybe 235 at most

nothing against the thirdgen but there is a lot of work to take place getting one of them up to that level AND maintain it's ability to handle transistions


sure you can put on a set of fat meats and stiffen up the shocks,springs a hell of a lot but that is all you will have is a skidpad machine. try taking in through the mountains and someone will be pulling you out from up the cliff

paul_huryk

I dissagree with the statements of 1g cars having only racing rubber. I have an old article out of CHP where they tested an 88 TA with a suspension package by Suspension Techniques, Bilstein shocks and RE71 245-50-16 rubber and the car averaged .996g with a street alignment. This car had no STB, subframes, RCAs, panhard rod, or TQ arm. Imagine if you had the same car with 275-40-17 rubber, those parts, and some strategic weight reduction. I'm thinking 1.05g average with one hell of a slalom mph.

vsixtoy

The article I recall seeing on these car was with 245/45-17's on 4 corners, lowered and stiffend with varoius over-the-counter parts and ran about .97g at best.

It can be done, but it will be right on 1g and not past becuase of the weight distribution. Shed weight that would be needed for better and it would no longer be a street car with creature comforts.

My car fully loaded (A/C, etc) has pulled 1.07g on street tires but it is a lighter weight V6 with much better bias than the V8's by far. My motor is lighter and sits further back overall.

paul_huryk

1g is just a number - it can easily be bested by a street car in street trim. Weight distribution is important, but not front to rear %/%, its more of where the weightt is located in the car that is more important.

Whoever was dumb enough to go through the trouble to go 245-50-17 and not go with 275-40-17 deserves to only run .97g.

vsixtoy

Hey Paul, Is that your real picture? You look like a movie star or someone familiar.

Axoid

A few of months ago I picked up a magazine that was doing a a shootout of several Mitsu Evos by expert tuners. They made the rule for the handling tests that the cars had to be on street tires (150 wear rating or higher). Most of the cars broke 1g and a couple exceeded 1.25 lateral g's.

Peteracer

VSIXTOY...If you really need to see pictures of Third gens handling more than 1g on Dot approved tires well, take any pictures of us in the SCCA A/S series, we all get over 1 lateral G.
if you prefer tv coverage watch the SCCA runoffs.

Chassis set ups are simples,effectives and not that expensive compared to extracting 425 hp from our so-called stock specs 305s as required per SCCA rules.And we run on stock 16x8 wheels.

like someone has posted previously,Gs are only numbers,but the f-body can be built in order to achieve very impressive lap times.

you can get 1g out of anything ,it all depends on how much money you are willing to spend.

BTW: in that book on the basics of handling"performance handling"
there's an Iroc-Z project car getting 1g. on street tires and a very cost efficient beginners friendly suspension package.

Peter

vsixtoy

I'm not talking DOT tires, I said street tires and you know I mean a tire and alignment setup that will get 25,000 miles treadlife untouched. I'm not talking a DOT autoX tire.

My car will in fact get 25,000 miles on the current tire setup and alignment specs and without changing that at all it will pull a 1.07g.

This is what I am refering to "street tires"

Peteracer

visxtoy:

[/QUOTE]Not on street tires- Only on racing rubber. I have the only "tested" 3rd gen I have ever seen to pull in excess of 1g on street tires and I have extensive work done to fabbing & setting this car including a lightweight V6 that gives me far better front /rear weight bias than any V8 including an LS1.[/QUOTE]

Make my day... any of our cars in the A/S S/S SCCA or NASA series can be "tested" with "street tires" and STILL pull over 1g, its no black magic, only tuning.

1g isnt the end of the world and can be done by any third gen owner with enough time and money.

Maybe you are the only f-body averaging 1.07 g in your hometown or at the local burger joint but there is TONS of serious f-body setups out there pulling great numbers on "street tires" out there.

and a skid pad is a skid pad ,they are all different and you can pull better numbers depending on the surface's quality.

skid pad is good to baseline the chassis,only lap time will get real results.

Peter

vsixtoy

So what are you telling me Peter, That I should try getting out on a race track and screw around with some big boys instead of cruising on a skidpad behind a burger joint?

You're missing the point Pete. Try that with your stripped down racecar and a street alignment, then try and get *25,000* miles out of your tires without touching a thing after the skid pad testing (or track fun for that matter) Here ya go Pete, Hows this for a little skid pad fun with some big boys (Picture enclosed)You want to talk race cars like a big shot, I don't think you have a clue who your trying to demean with the burger joint comment partner. Do you know my cars and credentials?

Didn't think so. Lets stick to the subject of Street cars and the true meaning of street tires like most around here are interested in. This is not a racing board.

vsixtoy

How about we get to my real race car Pete? The blue Vette in front. Still want to talk about me ruling only burger joints?

vsixtoy

Ther was my V6 and V8 "sports cars" (I have a few trucks also), How about a shot of my 4 cylinder I am currently building for vintage racing? Yes I have a 4, a 6, and an 8 jsut for variety Pete.

vsixtoy

Where ya live Pete, Lets see whatcha got? Whatta ya cruise to your local burger joint cornering expert?


Edit:Yes, Pete pissed me off with his naiveness. Racecars with full race specs running DOT autoX tires and getting only 500miles treadlife out of a so called street tire with -3* camber in order to get 1g to 1.2g's isn't what anyone else would call a "street car" on "street tires" pulling over 1g.


My Camaro does not have AutoX DOT tires, it has "STREET TIRES" (Goodyear F1 GS-D3 245/50-16's on 4 corners). It is daily driven on the street. It gets 25,000 miles treadlife on those tires and that alignment and yes it still pulls 1.07g's. Show me another 3rd gen thats doing that. Don't tell me stories Peter, Show me the car.

laiky

Dean, i gotta admit, i've been watching this thread waiting!! But no Bang?? I'm impressed, you've come a long way!!

BTW i have trouble getting my average handling camaro to wear tires properly, i got about 12-15,000 on my fronts and there shot! I just commute with it! You would think the 383 would kill the rears first but there fine.

laiky

You don't have any close ups of the Vette do you?

Dewey316

laiky -- how are the tires wearing?

thedogs

vsixtoy
a sorted mini
:hail: :hail: :hail:
Where did you get that? was it uk imported?
Those cars rule.

laiky

the outer edges are gone. i originally had the car lowered and the camber was good ( around -.8 -1) but when i put stock springs back in the adjustment was maxed out and the camber wasn't enough. I of course INTENDED to fix it by modding the strut mounts or getting the Spohn/alloys but i never got around to it. Sucks having responsibilities and alot of work to do

Dewey316

yeah, not getting enought camber sucks. Just lower it again

laiky

Planning to, it's no longer my daily driver so the lack of ground clearance shouldn't be an issue. I still need to raise the TKO and massage the exhaust.

Dewey316

where is the TKO sitting to low at?

(insert joke) -- Just let the speed bumps clearance everything for you

laiky

i have unceremoniously whacked the case against asphalt at horrendous speeds. One time i hit hard enough to fling my hand off the shifter strait up, hurts like hell!! Its hitting toeard the rear (if i remember correctly) i have the fortes kit with the red spacers that lower the crossmember. i want to clearance the tunnel and put the crossmember back at stock height. I cut the nub off the case, and i had to cut the lower lip off my scatter sheild. I just hit too much stuff. i couldn't even get in and out on my driveway with the pro kit.

Dewey316

The scatter shields do that. Everyone I know with the lakewood shield, whacks it on everything. I haven't heard of people having problems with hitting the tranny case.

Peteracer

Wow you seems to take it all very personally.

Racing with the big boys?..ummm why not! Ive been racing for the last 15 years in Europe and around the world.(F1800VJr,F3000 Uk,91-93,BMW TCC R&D program in Spain 94-95,Australia V8 supercars chapionship champions 96-98-99(holden Commodore VR VS),freelance BWM CCA instructor for the driver training program and consultant for BMW R&D programs in Greenville SC.


When I got back in America road racing was at agony, especially for the big cubes classes.I raced SCCA A/S,GT-1 and finally Spec Miata (small but very fun).

Ive been racing and tuning with the big boys all my life, and never at the local burger joint. For me, building a car for the street is useless, especially when you have stupid speed limits like 40-55 and 65 and cops ready to put you in jail for a tire squeak...

And stop thinking you are the only guy in the US driving a f-body pulling 1.07g on street tires,your'e not,no matter how many cars you have or money you got,but if it makes you happy to think you are the local burger joint superhero well OK, happy now?

How many cars I got, not much, when Im done with one I sell it,I race cars not collecting em.

All this conversation has turned childish ,and I dont want to get any further... keep playing in your sandbox with your "toys" and I dont think you will ever get to play in mine with an attitude like this.

Peter

vsixtoy

Laiky,

There might be some parts coming out in the near future that will help cure that camber problem- but hey, what do I know?

I know nothing. so don't ask, just wait.

Hi Peter Put up or shut up

Dewey316

I bet I can guess in two guesses

and . . . at least you admit to knowing nothing , they say realising you have a problem is the first step.

(including the typical TGO clarification.... I am only joking with Dean, this was not a put down, but a friendly joke.)

pvt num 11

Hey, easy now...

I was told by one person that suspension should be the first thing to mod out. (Christopher Shields at goingfaster.com) Okay, sounds good, I plan on dumping some PST parts into the car when I get a chance. Then, another guy told me I need to dump money into the rear and the transmission first, then the suspension. Seeing that my tranny works fine and my posi isn't dying, I'm disinclined to stick a Ford 9-inch and a rebuilt 700R4 in. I'd like to do 1g (I'd settle for 0.9-something) and be able to take turns at twice their listed speeds or so. From what I'm understanding, I can do that with street (25,000 mile and then some tires) rubber. I COULD stick Yokohamas on the car, but a co-worker has those and he says they wear a lot faster. No such thing as a free lunch, I guess. I'd rather not buy a new set of tires once a year. Maybe when I get a set of real rims, I'll stick a set of street tires on those and stick something a bit stickier on the old ones. *shrug* Considering there's no one running FS at the local autocross track, I'd always get first place, no matter what I did.

laiky

To peter and Vsix, i know this might be a radical idea but i LIKE having 2 accomplished and experienced racers to ask questions of. This is a (Mostly) street car board so most of us post from the perspective of a street driven car ( i'm not a racer, i live in NYC, we don't have any tracks close by or lots of gararge space/ shopm space) so getting a track only car is out of the question. i can't afford a trailer (where would i put it?) so i like being able to get hard core info that will work in a street car. I also like to learn what goes on in racing from all aspects all around the world so someone who has raced internationally is a real asset. That being said perhaps you guys can look at it from each others perspective and we all can benefit?? VSix knows his **** especially as it applies to 3rd gen's ( not implying thats all you know, but thats what we mostly discuss here). Peter, if you have lots of racing experience, i would love to see how you apply it to building a third get, track only or otherwise.

So how about we put both of your experience to the test??

You guys should spec out your ultimate streetable handling package for a thirdgen right here! One car both of you guys virtually build. What do you guys say?

vsixtoy

Laiky, the problem with this idea is everyone has their own opinion as to what the "ultimate streetable "is. My "vitual build" is in fact a "reality build" and already exists. my opinion (opposed by about 95% of people here) is that the V6 is the ultimate street car for agility, fuel consuption, and tameable street power. Unlike eveeryone else here, I don't want a V8 Camaro. I built this car out of fustration- its the wife's car- it has sentimental value to her (was a close family member's that passed away years back). I was stuck with it and when ever I had to drive it I would b.... and complain. She won't part with it and finally after about 10 years and a daughter that is finally getting old enough to handle a stiff suspension without vibrating her brain apart, I finally convinced my wife to let me touch it. After all, If I have to sometimes drive it, I have a reputation to protect.

I tweaked this thing up a good bit and was amazed at the response I got from the V6 weight bias. I have driven many many V8 third gens. I had figured I would build the suspension first (hence the 800lb front springs) then drop a zz4 crate motor into it. I could not believe after doing the suspension work how well this car handled that I now refuse to put a V8 into it. Its going to cost me more to build thefairly radical V6 that I currently am, than it would have to buy the ZZ4 crate motor, but I want this thing to remain lightweight, but enough umph for daily street driiving without being a monster to drive. Plus I like doing things noone else has.

This car is close to being finished, but I keep adding different crap.
*This is the whole point of my response to your challange* A car is never built entirely to ones original plan. I could write down a spec sheet labeling what I would buy and what I would do next, but all that would change when finished with the initial list. You jsut don't know what you have till you build it and find out- then its tweaking this or changing that to get it truely dialed- this kind of stuff cant be foreposted.

I have a comeplete new setup going onto this car front and rear in the near future- this I never really expected, but I am now addicted to this little car- the Mini is waiting patiently and reminding me everyday as I walk by it "not to forget about me for too much longer". I touch it about 4 days a month- the Mini is more of a 5 year plan. I bought it to get me away from the Camaro, but I keep coming back to screwing with the Camaro more and more- Like I said, I am addicted to this V6 fo the next year

vsixtoy

The key to pulling 1g on factory size street tires and incredible transitioning- A lightweight 60*V6. My ultimate "street" 3rdgen.

Not another garage queen that is only tolerable on the weekends- this will still commute in traffic when I am finished with it.

TransAm12sec

Try to convince your wife to for a turbo, then you would really have some fun.

Anyways, do you have any mods done to the car right now?

I don't know if someone else talked about this, but an irs is quite a bit of modification, and there are other places to begin with before an irs.

vsixtoy

You asked for it Keep in mind, this is why I do not have a signiture of "mods" like many around here This is a list I made a few weeks ago when asked how much I had into it $$$.
-------------------------------

Started life as a Limited production '87 Calif Edition RS Camaro with a custom dealer paint scheme.

I have added-

*'87 IROC 16x8 rims that I had chromed- Rims then were balanced grinded to ensure perfect balance before tires were ever fitted. Reducing the need for much balance weight when tires are mounted
*Multiple sets of high dollar performance tires- currently Goodyear F1 GS-D3's
*Arp racing studs
*Kuyokugen lightweight 7-sided racing lugnuts
*'87 IROC 10-bolt with rear discs, 3.23's and posi (I'll get more into this later- It has been modified from this stock point)
*Various sets of stock front and rear 10.5" performance rotors and pads. Mainly Stillen brake rotors and pads were best by far in the 10.5" iron caliper catagory.
* finally after years of not keeping "reliable" (meaning long lasting without warping) brakes on the car I decided to upgrade them- Wilwood LS1 12.2x.810 4pot rears with internal drum parking brake assembly.
*Lokar custom fit steelbraided E-brake cables and clevis, stock parking lever adjuster removed and part of assembly altered
*Fronts are 6pot 13x1.25 Wilwood -Biggest anyone can get under a stock 16" iroc rim- Everything custom made and fitted from scratch. Spindles shaved for weight reduction
*GW custom billet aluminum front hubs
*Custom alum hubcentric wheel spacers to set proper scrub pattern with new front brake setup
*Earls braided brake lines
*Earls Solo-bleed fluid valves
*1LE prop valve (I have recently put a new booster on also in the past two years.)
*Suspension Spring Specialist 800lb front linear springs trimmed to ride height. Final rate aprox 810-820lbs from trimming to exact desired height
*rear Progressive rate springs 145-225lb max
*Koni shaft style progessive rate bumpstops that are setup to assist the rear spring rate even further progessively to help induce a certain disired amount of cornering squat
*Koni "yellow" sport struts & shocks on max setting front and 1click down from max on rears
*Custom billet aluminum HMS strut mounts with special Aurora HD racing bearings. Also had them polished.
*Fairly aggressive alignment specs for being used on the street everyday. If I didn't occationally drive this car hard, the wifes daily driving would cause uneven tire wear.
*Eldebrock TPI 3pt strut tower brace
*GW steering brace (Car already has a quick ratio 2.25 lock to lock steering box from factory)
*Custom welded upper rear steering box brace (pre-loaded and removable)
*Custom welded trans tunnel/rear control are brace (pre-loaded and removable)
*Baer bumpsteer alum adj rodended tierods sleeves
*Spohn 34mm solid chromemoly front swaybar
*HD front swaybar frame mounts so the bar does not pull out of the frame under hard cornering
*Front grill and airboxes modified to alter airflow patterns into the nose of the car
*Custom 4 core brass radiator then fitted still utilizing stock electric fan for now (This will all change by next summer- current project started going to a complete custom one of a kind cooling system with electric waterpump and BeCool rad on a 60*V6)
*Dual highflow air filters
*A/C system completely updated to a "new" R-134 setup. Not the old R-12 compressor converted.
*Darrell Young Racing "completely custom" (Not off the shelf) 700r4 with everything internally gutted and upgraded.
*Custom made V8 torque convertor fitted to V6 tranny (Tranny has V8 imput shaft)
*ACPT carbon fiber 4lb driveshaft with Spicer u-joints. Spohn driveshaft loop cut back off at this point- No more concern about a high speed polevault with the brooming carbon fiber safety system
*rebuilt 10bolt rearend with new bearings, seals, and put slightly taller 3.23's in it (lightweight racing ring and pinion). I like this ratio on the road better than the stock V6 3.42's. They have a broader power range through corners and higher top end without going into O.D.- Good for roadracing.
*"Roadrace" version Auburn Posi
*Aluminum diff cover with bearing cap preloads
*BMR bolt-on relocation brackets (I welded them into place) Why bolt-ons? They have a secondary support brace that the weld-on styles don't- strengthens the shock mount for a future coilover rear conversion. I was thinking ahead
*Spohn chromemoly TQarm with solid trans mount crossmember with driveshaft loop. I also fitted the front solid mount with a larger HD Aurora rodend.
*ES poly trans mount
*25mm chromemoly Spohn rear swaybar with HD axle mounts.
*Spohn chromemoly adj LCA's with special HD Aurora rodends also added- Radius arm swing shorteneds as much as possible to induce roll understeer when cornering
*Tubular panhard rod (Future changes will be made here to add roll center adj provisions)
*Spohn tubular suframe connectors. I installed myself and shear welded them along the subframe. Custom bend trianglar inboard braces and welded them to the floorboard also. 1) to gain catalytic convertor height for ground clearance. 2) Direct bracing design- stronger and ties into, not laying on top like original Spohn design. he doesn't do this for ease of install for the average person.
*The entire floorboad is cleaned and epoxy painted to help prevent corrision.
*PF&E custom stainless steel headers (One of a kind. Stainless retains heat and is much perfered for racing, and for life expectancy of headers) Headers not installed yet along with various other engine componants I will list and are collecting to install together.
*Headers are also ceramic coated
*Gibson high flow catalytic convertor. 2 1/2" in and out
*Catback exhaust completely redone with 2 1/2" pipe. Tucked under floorboard as tight as possible (It doesn't hang down like over the counter exhuasts do). Aftermarket exhaust hangers welded on and system welded together, not clamped
*Flowmaster 80 muffler with 1.75" dual exits (Not the crappy sounding large 2 1/2" duals everyone does on the V6 cars)
*'89 Vette in-tank fuelpump. Higher pressure and flow with metal internals. Stock pump has plastic internals.
*Fuel pressure raised slightly (Neighbor [professional auto repair owner and race motor builder] did this for me after scanning it with a Diacom and realising it was running lean. Don't know if he took it apart and shimmed the FPR or what. I haven't ever had it apart to see after he messed with it.
*62mm EDP billet alum TB (discountinued- but I have a new one)
*Custom home made alum plenum
*Polished intake runners to injectors. Polished stock plenum neck as much as possible and also blocked the EGR to prevent the notorious carbon buildup(Ported and polished on uninstalled setup- I have another complete intake manifold for the new motor)
*17lb & 19lb injectors (Own, but not installed I am only listing things I currently own. If not installed yet, I will list "Not installed". Otherwise they are on the car)
*3.4l 4th gen block and crank- will be modified to a 3.5L being extensively modified internally- nothing stock will remain (not fully complete so not installed yet)
*1.52 roller tip rockers installed currently
*Fiero alum valvecovers (not installed)
*140amp polished Alt with custom bracket
*ASP crankshaft underdrive pulley
*new design tensioner
*idlepulley for waterpump delete project (not installed)
*timing cover with electric WP fitting TIG welded in place (not installed)
*aftermarket prom chip- programed for 180* running temp
*New distributor with A/C Delco module and dist based drilled for added cooling
*53,000volt Hypertech ignition coil. (Stock is 38,000, MSD is 48,000) Coil underneath further heatshielded from exhaust manifold
*Taylor 10.4mm race wires
*Taylor fire sleeves to heat shield the spark plug cable boots
*EVERY sensor in the computer system loop has been replace with a new A/C Delco units within the past 2 years- everything is perfect. A/C delco sensors and module are the best money can buy. They have great insulation against heat and will out perform anything else in the short and long run- don't ever buy any other brand.
*3 years ago I had a new 2.8 GM crate motor put into it (not rebuilt) It has currently about 35,000 on it.
*MobilOne full synthetic 15W50 oil in every car I drive.
*40below and swimming pool ("treated") water in the cooling system
*Deleted the TB coolant lines entirely for ease of plenum removal.
* 13 degree timing advance. stock is 10*
*redid the headliner
*LaCarrera polished 4-spoke steering wheel and polished billet hub with black bowtie engraved horn insert.
*Pioneer 1.5din CD player reciever unit- no amps. This unit doesn't need it. It has much much better sound than the factory ERS system. Amps add too much weight anyways- I'm into handling so I personally don't care for that crap in a car. I have a home system that will drowned out any ******* neighbor playing their crappy thump thump music in the rare case that happens in my neighborhood. Loud music doesn't belong in an automobile (My personal opinion) One need to listen to the noises your car is telling you when you drive- especially when pressing a car (A big tip for novice drivers.)
*Forgot about the Sylvainia Silverstar headlamps both low and high beams
*Triple edge lifetime wiperblades
*Personalized license plate reading: ON A RAIL
*Autolite NON Platinum plugs- (nothing is more of a workhorse than these)
*Diehard Roadhandler battery
*Does the matching painted floorjack count? I was bored
*several other top secret projects

vsixtoy

I might as well post a better close-up picture of it at this point in the thread also.

Its all the wifes car- so remember, if she divorces me, it all goes with her. I figure thats not anything near Johnny Carson fate- His wife got half of 300 Milion dollars.

rx7speed

holy hell batman can I send you my car see what kind of work you can do with a irs setup and that rear steer that I'm still not sure if I like or not

TransAm12sec

Well, I was asking porkyzilla.

thedogs

c'mon I think you went far at this point. it's only a v6

"Triple edge lifetime wiperblades"

sell me your mini

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

right now just t56 with adj torque arm...other than adjustable fpr and 24lb injectors other than that no

got to build the brakes/suspension/trans before the motor hehe

so out of all of this fighting no one has helped me yet

its going to have stree tires i want an all around handling car i said 1g lateral because i thought that was the mother of all tests i want to be able to go for a mountian run than go to auto cross, than head up the the 1/4mi and run/ after that drive 1hr away to thunder hill or laguna secca raceway. with the occasional street cruise

TransAm12sec

First, do you have a budget?

vsixtoy

Thedogs, The Mini is my baby and a very rare score. Ity sat in my meigbors garage for 18 years until she just recently moved. '67 Cooper S 1275, matching #'s, right hand drive, and factory rag top.

Porkzilla, Sorry about all the crap here. I kindof though I did answer your question already. good shock & struts (Koni Yellow's), and some R series racing tires. crank as much neg camber and postive caster into the strut mounts as humanly possible. Strip off as much weight off the car as you can. right there alone you will be pulling 1g minimum on a an otherwise stock suspension car. Now to stabilise it- I gave you a basic list of what I have done to mine to get it to more extreme handling levels when it comes to response and transitioning weight.

No one can really tell you how to set your car unless you have the provisions to do so, Buy every adjustable part you can and start reading posts here on what they do- there are many helpful posts on setups.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

as far as the budget goes wanna keep it to 5,000 and under
and i have been working on the weight distrubtation shedding off some of the front weight removing ac, battery relocation kit to rear....our cars are close to 50/50 i have been working on that lately...