http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...729348881&rd=1

I know this guy personally, I've taken a spin with him in his car and the results are dramatic!!!! He's working on a setup for third gen cars right now, should get my 91 launching nice . All of his stuff is personally designed bye him and manufactured in his shop, I recommend him if you want a personal touch to your car and don't want to pay the premium for brand names! Keep your eyes on his auctions for new designs and such!!!

Ps. Did i mention you can change trans to a 350 turbo or 400 turbo with this setup? No need for the trans torque arm mount anymore, this is a major plus for me because I'm doing a 350 turbo swap on the third gen.

 

I got linked to a stereo??!!

 

Its not a radio, its the torque arm control unit..

 

I think this is the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...932175376&rd=1

Jerry

 

hmm a torque arm that can get FM....??>......thats good...LOL

 

Jerry gave you the right link guys, sorry about that. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I dunno who the guy selling the Pioneer radios is, but those are sweet radios, good and reliable!

 

 

Looks like a knock off of spohn's parts.

www.spohn.net

Kat

 

the only thing i can see wrong with it is, the front mount for the torque arm is a fixed posistion i was under the impression that that mount needs to move front to back. Like this one from spohn

http://www.spohn.net/productimages/TA_Rod_Frt_big.JPG

 

I know he ran it on his car to find stress points and such which it didn't show many of, where it did he reinforced it. It looks like the front mount would swing like that to load and unload the control arms when the rear end angle changed, but this does does track straight and hasn't shown excess wear on the mounting point and such.

 

Looks like my exhaust would never go over that cross member! LOL

 

Nutty, How would I go about getting in touch with this guy? I live rite outside North Vernon and would like to meet up with some local fellow F-Body nuts. Do you live in North Vernon also?
I haven't seen many 3rd gens around. I've seen a green RS with white stripes a few times but never caught the driver to say Hey.

 

I noticed 2 things wrong with this torque arm and a reason why it shouldn't be on this site. First is that it will bind since the front isn't allowed to move forward or backwards as said in a previous post. Something in there will bend or give, most likely the bushings in the trailing arms but if you are using rod ends there will be an issue somewhere. The second is that the adjustment isn't too precise.

As for the reason why it shouldn't be on this site... it's for fourth gens.

 

You're correct this is four fourth gen, he's working on a setup for my 3rd gen right now that's closer to stock configuration. I agree this may cause wear on the lower control arm bushings, we'll see soon. He runs this setup on his daily driver 1997 Trans Am and it's been run for a while so far it's been a decent setup. I'll have him check for wear on the gears, u joints, busings, etc. here soon, I appreciate the input.

 

looks dangerous to me! the crosmember is mounted to sheetmetal tabs. Combine that with the binding issue and its only a matter of time before the crossmember tears loose while down shifting or braking and join the olympic polevaulting team.

your buddies on borrowed time.

 

Ha, that's almost the same design as the spohn unit. The only thing I see wrong is it doesn't allow for for and aft movement. The spohn unit works pretty nice BTW, as it has enabled me to cut a 1.8 60 on street tires.

 

Yeah, because nothing on a 4th gen can be used on a 3rd gen



Looks like a good design except for the aformentioned front mount.

 

The crossmember in question bolts to brackets where the factory 4th gen G-load brace goes. Our cars don't have a G-load brace or the tabs on the frame so you would have to make a bracket and weld it to the frame in order to make it work. This torque arm is in no way a direct bolt on.

I'm sure you're familiar with this pic. You can see there is no place for the crossmember to bolt to.

 

By the way, i was referring to the binding causing the tabs to fatigue and break. With a proper crossmember it should work. I guess on a third gen it wouln't be a direct bolt on, might as well go with a jegster or bmr (whichever one requires the weld in crossmember.

I like the idea of another source for parts for our cars, but i think you will have to do more than just weld something up. The binding issue makes it look like our new friend has some more learning to do.

 

It is a very poor, seriously flawed design. I would recommend avoiding it.

It does not allow for the front-to-rear motion that absolutely HAS TO occur in these suspensions; those little sheet metal tabs, or the floor pan around them, or something, are not long for the world. I wouldn't expect to see wear on gears, U-joints, or even bushings; merely the little sheet-metal tabs breaking off from the constant fore-and-aft stress as the rear swings through its arc going over bumps, and the torque arm is forced lengthwise.

 

It's an obviously flawed design, but those "sheet metal tabs" aren't going to break any time soon. I have the spohn tq arm for 4th gens with the optional crossmember for long tubes and it hangs pretty low, actually it is the lowest point on my car. I have hit manhole covers at cruising speeds and it did absolutely no damage to the tabs or tq arm at all.

 

Where do I begin with you?

Lets start here

Why?

Thats a 4th gen chassis and mount points on the subframe. The drivers side mount tab is a direct extension brace point of the actuall subframe and not on the flimsiy unibody itself. The drivers side takes about 75% of the load of the torque trust (Just like a bais brakepedal adjuster would favor one side if closer to the mount. 3rd GEN ARE NOT DESIGNED THIS WAY- They are in fact different from 4th gens in their mount points and simply welding a tab to a 3rd gen floorboard would do exactly as Laiky, RB, & Slowta have stated.

Yopu are giving unreliable and potentially dangerous info.

 

I would be curious to see pictures of how you have it retrofitted. I can gaurantee its not just tab welded to the floorboard without being plated

 

It's not retrofitted, it's actually in my 4th gen. Sorry for not clarifying.

 

Hmm, I thought the four link suspension on mustangs (2 uppers and 2 lowers conrol arms) don't move back and forth but up and down. The same as for grand national, etc. So wouldn't this make this kind of like a 3 link? up and down movement but no forward and backwards? I hate to say it but mustangs are some of the hardest hooking cars out there. But I could be wrong. I build suspension parts for a living, so just for fun I will buy one of these and try it out on my car to see how my competition will hold up. I will let you guys know.

FYI- my user name was whitebird94 but I can't seem to access it. I have a 6 speed LT1 that spins forever. I leave it stock to try out new parts.

As for the tabs, several companies use them. Like PA racing, Profabrication, and I think BMR. Maybe even a few more. They use these on the K members to hold up the vehicle weight of the car, so that they'd be strong enough...provided they are welded well enough.

Almost forgot the whole reason for this post. Almost all products are a knock off of each other. Someone starts a design then someone else builds from it. This has happened forever. So just cuz it's a knock off doesn't mean that it's junk. It's the quality and the price that matters, on a design that works of course. not trying to flame or start anything...just giving my two cents.

 

3 and 4 links control the pinoin angle, our torque arms change the angle too. As the axle moves up the LCAs pull the axle towards the front of the car. With a fixed torque arm like that the tabs will be bent towards the front of the car. There is 1 pivot point and a sliding linkage on the stock torque arms. Only 1 pivot on this arm.

 

OK I see thanks. I would like to see a vid of this car in action, One can tell alot from em>

 

FWIW, not jumping into a fire pit here, just noteing from my experience. I have a Jegster torque arm that has a tube sliding into the main torque arm body-however you want to call it.

Anyways, I greased the shaft that mounts to the tranny tunnel mount before inserting it into the torque arm and bolting it in the car. Many times I was under the car this season nuttin and boltin and paid special attention to the sliding link of the torque arm. Absoluetly NO sign of any fore/aft movement. No shiney metal, no gumbled up grease, nothing to make me think that thing is actually sliding at all.

I know the principal of it, but after many street miles, MANY hard launches this season, I would think at some point it would've cycled through some range of motion? Again, basing this off all the grease I put on the shaft before installation and it looks the same today as it did back in April with the addition of some dirt/debris from normal under car usage.

Again, not flaming or calling anybody out, just posting a real life expereince with the suspension we all have.

 

The movement will be minimal, especially with a lowered or stiffly sprung car, also the angle of the control arms at rest will have an effect. Regardless, it must move!

 

My suspension actually is a suspension and does move. My setup requires more for and aft movement over the stock setup especially for the minimal amount of wheel travel I do have in the rear. If mine were locked into place I would definately be binding badly and hampering cornering. I am setup to invert the outer LCA in a hard corner which shortens the mount distance of my "as short as possible" LCA's and adversely pushes the TQarm forward in this event.