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Ball Joint & idler arm- $650

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Old 10-11-2004 | 10:09 PM
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9c1Caprice's Avatar
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Ball Joint & idler arm- $650

My car has been wandering and i just took it in to get a quote on how much to fix my problem.

he says i need my ball joints and idler arm replaced -- $200 for parts and $450 for labor. I dont think i can pay that much. i have some of that money set aside for a gift for my girlfriend and i dont want to blow my 5 year anniversary gift money.

Ive read all of the old posts and realistically - can i do this?

I live in an apartment and have a section of parking lot i can do this in over the weekend. Id have to rent anything outside my craftsman set of socket and box wrenches. I have no hydraulic press.

Help.
Old 10-11-2004 | 10:45 PM
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From: Roscoe, IL
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
200

i paid like 30 for a moog idler arm and maybe 15 for a ball joint, but i got the my friend works there discount, but still shouldnt be anywhere near 200

its not that bad of job, you can rent a ball joint press and and tie rod seperator from autozone or similar place and have it done in an afternoon
Old 10-11-2004 | 11:34 PM
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From: High plains of NM
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Yup there high (in more ways than one).
Old 10-12-2004 | 01:44 AM
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From: Changing Tires
Car: too many ...
Sounds like they are trying to screw you. I'd say its do-able if you can take the A-Arms someplace during the weekend to get the ball joints pressed. I have no experience with renting any type of bushing press. When we did the front of my 91Z we just went out and bought a picklefork instead of renting, was under $20. Took us about 7 hours (maybe a little more) to install spindles on both sides and swap springs. Only a few steps away from removing the A-Arms and doing the bushings (and balljoints). You could probably do it faster if you know what you're doing. We were first timers hehehe and we took a nice long lunch break. I say as long as you're doing the balljoints you might as well do the A-Arm bushings too. And dont forget to re-grease and pack the wheel bearings. Not too sure about the idler arm, haven't done that one yet.
Old 10-12-2004 | 05:12 AM
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
Yeah.....


That's a retarded price.....

If anyone pays that much to have that work done on a thirdgen including parts, well, they're a victim of social darwinism.

:lala:
Old 10-12-2004 | 08:00 AM
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Ok, thanks guys. I have very limited time lately as my job has me travel around the state. I didnt even have time to get a second quote.

Look, Im going to go online to rock auto this afternoon and get moog (t) parts for the name brand and assurance. Ive borrowed jackstands and Ill rent the tools from autozone and maybe try to find someone to press fit my ball joints.

Where can i find a list of every part I'll need for this? I figure ill do the extra pieces that CrazyHawaiian is talking about while im "in there"

Nothing like having only a few days because of a very busy work schedule to fix the car and then not having one part to finish the job. I just dont have time for that right now. Im always on the road lately and its really cramping my free time.
Old 10-12-2004 | 09:05 AM
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From: Changing Tires
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Well the good thing is that the car is still drivable. So dont feel rushed to fix it or anything. Plan it out and it'll go smoother. My 89 IROC has had bad balljoints for months, just waiting for some more parts so I can do a bunch of stuff at once and finally fix em. Heck I even go drifting with the bad balljoints!! hahahaha.
Old 10-12-2004 | 09:44 AM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Replacing the ball joints and idler arm can be done pretty easily. The ball joint press from Autozone will remove the old and install the new. Rent their pickle forks too to separate the ball joint from the spindle and idler arm from center link. Try not to damage the rubber boots.

I would recommend against trying to replace the a-arm bushings if you might be pressed for time. Replacing them requires removing/reinstalling the coil springs which can be a pita. You would probably also have to remove the strut and rotor to get the spring out.

The ball joints can be done without disconnecting the strut, which requires a 15/16 socket and a lot of torque to reinstall (about 150 ft-lb+). You should be able to leave the rotor on as well.

After separating the ball joint from the spindle you can drop the a-arm with a floor jack. Recommend a coil spring compressor on the springs to be safe (again rent from Autozone).

Once you get started, it's pretty basic. Don't forget lube.
Old 10-13-2004 | 08:21 PM
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Thanks alot guys. Im going with the minimum work right now to keep my car safe. These weeks with overtime hours on the road might wear me out too much to do a full 2 day weekend job. This does have its good points though -- Im in a company vehicle most of the week and only drive on the weekends.

Thanks alot, guys. This is consistently the best site for advice.

Oh- how bad do I need to worry about a level floor. Im a little concerned about these jack stands and the not level parking lot.

Last edited by 9c1Caprice; 10-13-2004 at 08:24 PM.
Old 10-14-2004 | 12:37 PM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Can't really answer you on the level floor, you'll have to make a judgment call. Make sure your wheels are blocked and if you have to, you can jack up one side at a time. Just make sure you've got space to drop the a-arm enough to remove the old ball joint.

Reminder-make sure you've got a jack securely under the a-arm when you disconnect the spindle from the ball joint because even with spring compressors, the spring may still be exerting some force on it.

If you do this without disconnecting the spindle from the strut you may also save yourself from an alignment. Although it could have been aligned in the past with worn parts, I'd drive it a while and then make the call.

Good luck, once you're finished you should have a good idea of what it would take to do more of a front-end rebuild.
Old 10-21-2004 | 07:35 AM
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From: Colorado
$650?!?!?!

Holy crap, $650?!?!? I just got both my ball joints and both wheel bearings replaced, plus alignment for $400 in a shop in a MAJOR town where labor is like $65 an hour! I'd shop around for a better deal if I were you!
Old 10-21-2004 | 10:48 AM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Hey 91C, how did it go? Did you get it done last weekend?
Old 10-25-2004 | 06:06 PM
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not yet. parts are in the mail now. should be in by the end of the week. There was a little delay due to the need to buy a 5 year anniversary gift for the girlfriend.

I got the idler arm and two ball joints. Ill do the rest later when i recover from the diamond/gold earring financial hit.

Ill let you guys know how it went.
Old 10-25-2004 | 09:13 PM
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
What you could do is get a extra pair of A arms..
have the bushings and ball joints pressed out
Then sandblast them,squirt them with paint (or powder coat them)
go ahead and press in the bushings and balljoints
next step is grab some friends some beer some steaks and a spring compressor...
jack up car..please use jack stands
Tell some dirty jokes and spend some quality weekend time with the boys....

I think the Idler arm retails for around 60-80 bucks.. you can do it yourself ... you will need a good alinment when done

Last edited by TTOP350; 10-25-2004 at 09:21 PM.
Old 10-26-2004 | 06:08 PM
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ive been thinking about that route with the a-arms. That route might be the best way. although- i dont have the time right now to monkey around in a junkyard. If something does go fubar - i can bum a ride to work for a few days while my a arms are in the shop getting that work. Im looking into that now, thanks.

Otherwise, ill try to squeeze some car maintenance in this weekend in between the 5 year anniversary plans. Maybe I can hand my girlfriend her diamond earrings with greasy hands. Im sure she'll love that.

(Note to self- buy fast orange)

Last edited by 9c1Caprice; 10-26-2004 at 06:44 PM.
Old 10-26-2004 | 10:21 PM
  #16  
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From: Maryland
Car: 86 camaro sport coupe
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Plan it out and do the whole suspension with poly bushings. You won't regret it. Just did mine and it drives and handles like a whole new car. Just be safe when seperating the ball joint from the spindle.
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