Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

struts and shocks on front ...

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Old 09-18-2004, 01:56 PM
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Car: 82 firebird
Engine: 406
struts and shocks on front ...

has any one else noticed that the lower a arms are setup for shocks? the frame is also drilled for mounting ... however the only way to attach the top is to bore a hole(1 1/2)above the mounts to install the bushing and nut ... worked great until the shock blasted through the frame ... with some fish plating i think it may be a doable thing ... what do you all think ? ... tao
Old 09-18-2004, 02:18 PM
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Why would you want to?
Old 09-18-2004, 03:11 PM
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Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
I`m betting that GM used the same lower A arm for every car/ truck they could...I wouldn`t be surprised if the third gen A arm fit cars from 75-95
Old 09-18-2004, 05:43 PM
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I was just screwing around with your basic idea. The strut tube in essence would have to be something like a broken strut (no damper values, just the ability to shorten and lengthen without any side play.) The top strut mount would be tricky to make swivel and be reliable without extensive wear. This was only for fun- would cost bucks to engineer correctly. The idea would render a lower unsprung weight for better handling while keeping the basic suspension geometries.
Attached Thumbnails struts and shocks on front ...-coiloverretro.jpg  
Old 09-19-2004, 05:14 PM
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"The top strut mount would be tricky to make swivel and be reliable without extensive wear."

why couldn't you just use the existing mount?
Old 09-21-2004, 11:03 PM
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Car: 82 firebird
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i was wondering the same thing ... but then may knowledge of shocks and struts is pretty limited ... but thats why i like coming here,lots of views and a lot of knowledge ... im not sure i was clear before but i have already done this with good results at first ... that is until the top of the shocks broke through the frame ... they seemed to have a great dampening effect while they lasted ... since then i have added a wonder bar and a 4 point STB ... but i may try agian just to see what happens ... tao
Old 09-22-2004, 12:43 AM
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Originally posted by laiky
"The top strut mount would be tricky to make swivel and be reliable without extensive wear."

why couldn't you just use the existing mount?
I tinkered with the idea again tonight trying to engineer a more costworthy and reliable method of utilizing the inboard coilover design and this outer "telescopic", low unsprung weight, non-damper support rod. This lightens the assembly greatly while maintaining the factory geometry of the strut front suspension.

We know from taonindo's experience that the K-member can area will have to be strengthend with a welded flat plate and brackets for the coilover. The can area would have to be modified so it can be accessed more easily for coilover mount and adjustment, But can be fabbed no problem with plenty of room.

The yellow bumpsstops are a marginal idea that is probably not needed. The total length of this unit is out of proportion travel wise and would have to be refined in engineering to get the exact compressed and extended lengths of travel. The shorter the "red" strut rod is, the less unsprung weight. The Motion bearings (Blue) are found here- http://www.vxb.com/miva/merchant.mv?...tegory_Code=LM
Attached Thumbnails struts and shocks on front ...-coiloverretro2.jpg  

Last edited by vsixtoy; 09-22-2004 at 12:47 AM.
Old 09-26-2004, 04:33 PM
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vsixtoy you work at nasa dont you ... lol ... hope you dont mind me keeping a hold of this idea ... very well done ... thanks tao
Old 09-26-2004, 04:45 PM
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Just please know that some of the tolerances above on fitment are not exact and would need to be machined on a lathe and then press fitted. Those bearings don't look to be the adequate for the load rating of a suspension, they were just an example of what basic style would be needed. The ball joint thread diameter needs to also be verified, otherwise a sleeved welded into that tapped would be fit.

Houston out.
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