91L98Z28

I'm getting quite close to the rebuilding of front and rear suspension on my 91.

have a few questions.

(1) anybody know actual durometer values for TRW, 1LE, and MOOG rubber bushings? or at least a "stiff, stiffer, stiffest" order? anybody know if the various 1LE part numbers from GM are actually 1LE parts and not just correct fit with soft rubber?

(2) has anyone adapted a rubber bushing for the front of spohns' torque arm (the one that has it's own crossmember and mounts to the chassis - not the trans)?

background for anyone who wants to dig deeper or give advice/suggestions/comments

the car is basically a glorified highway cruiser for me. no autocross or competition or anything. I just need to tighten it back up. I'm staying with stock springs and swaybars. The car came with the FE2 package so I'm pretty sure it already has the 36/24 swaybar setup with hollow front bar - it has the small hole at each endlink. Has KYB shocks for the time being, which seem fine to me if not a bit stiff.

my goals is to stiffen the weak parts (SFC's, box the LCA's and the panhard rod) and use new rubber bushings everywhere (high durometer/1le where possible/available) except the swaybar endlinks (will use nylon or poly there). I'd love to use the spohn TA as well, but am unwilling to use a poly or spherical bushing..so until I can figure out a rubber bushing setup, the stock torque arm stays. (steve spohn, if you read this, the day you offer a TA for T56 with a rubber bushing to replace the poly bushing, i will order one!)

basically i'll be doing everything. strut mounts (stock type), a-arm bushings, balljoints, inner/outer tierods, idler and centerlink, lca bushings, panhard bushings, TA bushing at trans, swaybar mount and endlink bushings, i think that's it.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Concerning the 1LE bushings. The ZZ4 HO 350 conversion manual mentions rear control arms with "high-durometer (50K) bushings. These harder bushings reduce wheel hop under hard acceleration. (For comparison, production bushings are 11K)."

The 1LE 36 mm front bushings are GM P/N 14094389, the 24 mm rear 10037104 (and the poly endlinks 10221779). I can only assume that they too are the higher durometer. I used both front and rear for a while but eventually swapped them out for greaseables. Check sig. By the way, you may still be able to purchase the 1LE lower control arms, P/N 10164151, mentioned above--at least GMpartsdirect.com shows a good number:

JamesC

91L98Z28

thanks for the info. I think I've got everything I want figured out, with exception of the torque arm.

Does anyone at all have any idea how to set up a spohn TA with a rubber bushings on the trans end, instead of the poly?

I don't understand why this isn't a popular option. the rubber will deflect for axle articulation just fine and not bind like poly (have experienced this first hand), and won't be obnoxious (monetarily and audibly) like a rod end. i guess "rubber bushing" just isn't as fancy as poly or spherical...too bad; i'd gladly pay the spherical price for a rubber bushing. too bad a standard LCA rubber bushing or A-arm rubber bushing (or something) coudln't be swapped in.

i really need to do something about the suspension (see times in sig) but just not enthusiastic at all about going poly or spherical.

vsixtoy

Just buy the Spohn setup and replace the poly end 3/4"-16" fitting with a rubber one.

Here you go- same exact fitting in rubber for $26
http://www.airride.com/productinfo/p...ice=%2426%2E00

MrDude_1

my question is, if you're doing this for a non competition cruiser, why are you buying the aftermarket TQ arm in the first place?

91L98Z28

vsixtoy - thank you! that rubber rod end looks perfect to me. going to have to give it a try and report back..

mrdude_1: why not? I mentioned that it's not a competition car to explain why I'm not interested in spherical or poly (read: things that increase noise, vibration, etc.). I still want it to have the best handling and traction possible, just without compromising the ride on my 60 mile trip to work! I already have a heavily "compromised" car, don't need another.