rebuilding front suspension/steering...
#1
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
rebuilding front suspension/steering...
Im in the process of getting all the parts needed to rebuild my Z's steering/suspension. The car seems to have a 1/2" or more play in the wheel....and makes squeeking sounds when you turn the wheel at slow speeds. It also makes some popping sounds over some bumps and when the brakes are applied hard. Would it hurt to replace just the tie-rod ends and ball joints first to see if thats the cause for the noise? The pitman arm and idler arm were replaced not that long ago....so I dont think they are the culprit. BUT, at this point I wouldnt rule anything out. How hard is it to replace the lwr ball joints?? Will the "press" from auto-zone work?? Or should I just leave it to a pro? I can do the tie-rods....and I have the Hotchis solid adj sleeves so hopefully that will help. Any suggestions or comments would be much appreciated. Thanks......
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Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
I would check the centre link, they seem to wear like crazy on 3rd gens for some reason. Likewise, the ball joints - that's where I'd guess your noise is coming from.
#3
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 - Stock
Transmission: 700R4
I just replaced all my steering linkage this past weekend. The lower ball joints are not bad to get out. I took the control arm off and placed the edge nearest the ball joint on a 2x4 to raise it off the ground. Then have a friend stand on the opposite side. Locate a deep socket (I believe I used a deep 21mm) and place it on the ball joint itself. One or two good hits from a hammer will pop it out without any damage to the control arm.
I rented the ball joint press from Murrays and it worked great. Since I don't have a bench vise, I had a friend stablize the arm while I pressed it in. If the planets align, it's really not a big deal. I say do it yourself. - Adam
I rented the ball joint press from Murrays and it worked great. Since I don't have a bench vise, I had a friend stablize the arm while I pressed it in. If the planets align, it's really not a big deal. I say do it yourself. - Adam
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Half-FastRacing
I just replaced all my steering linkage this past weekend. The lower ball joints are not bad to get out. I took the control arm off and placed the edge nearest the ball joint on a 2x4 to raise it off the ground. Then have a friend stand on the opposite side. Locate a deep socket (I believe I used a deep 21mm) and place it on the ball joint itself. One or two good hits from a hammer will pop it out without any damage to the control arm.
I rented the ball joint press from Murrays and it worked great. Since I don't have a bench vise, I had a friend stablize the arm while I pressed it in. If the planets align, it's really not a big deal. I say do it yourself. - Adam
I just replaced all my steering linkage this past weekend. The lower ball joints are not bad to get out. I took the control arm off and placed the edge nearest the ball joint on a 2x4 to raise it off the ground. Then have a friend stand on the opposite side. Locate a deep socket (I believe I used a deep 21mm) and place it on the ball joint itself. One or two good hits from a hammer will pop it out without any damage to the control arm.
I rented the ball joint press from Murrays and it worked great. Since I don't have a bench vise, I had a friend stablize the arm while I pressed it in. If the planets align, it's really not a big deal. I say do it yourself. - Adam
Doesnt sound too bad....I could go ahead and replace the control arm bushings that way. Did you have to compress the spring though to get the control arm loose? Thanks for all the help....Im gonna tackle this very soon....
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 - Stock
Transmission: 700R4
I replaced the control arm bushings as well as the springs. The safe way to do it is rent a spring compressor from the local part shop. I just jacked the car up such that the control arm could fully swing down, then just pryed the spring out. It wasn't dangerous, but the potential is there.
Tip on removing the control arm bushings: I have tried several ways, but unless you have an air chisel (I don't), this way worked best for me. Take a drill and drill out the old rubber bushing, ignoring the metal shell and sleeve on the inside. What you're doing here is weakening the bushing for the next step. I used a screw driver and a hammer and simulated what an air chisel would do. Working from the middle to the outside, I collasped the shell so that it just pulled out.
Doing it this way should only take you about 15 mins per bushing.
Hope that helps
Adam
Tip on removing the control arm bushings: I have tried several ways, but unless you have an air chisel (I don't), this way worked best for me. Take a drill and drill out the old rubber bushing, ignoring the metal shell and sleeve on the inside. What you're doing here is weakening the bushing for the next step. I used a screw driver and a hammer and simulated what an air chisel would do. Working from the middle to the outside, I collasped the shell so that it just pulled out.
Doing it this way should only take you about 15 mins per bushing.
Hope that helps
Adam
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
I too recently replaced my front end components. I was in a collision and one side the tie rod was bent slightly. The biggest thing I would say to watch out for is removing the springs. Just be careful.
WHen you said you have about a 1/2" of play in the wheel, do you mean the steering wheels or one of the front wheels?
WHen you said you have about a 1/2" of play in the wheel, do you mean the steering wheels or one of the front wheels?
#7
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
are there any good all in one kits that have everything to rebuild a front end steering and suspension setup or do you guys recommending buying parts from different vendors?
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
Spohn has something in the way of a front end kit. I believe it is comprised of Moog parts. I prefer Moog suspension parts.
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 - Stock
Transmission: 700R4
I bought and just installed the Spohn front end rebuild kit. It comes complete with all Moog parts, except Spohn's nice tie-rod adjusters.
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
Even though you didn't ask me I can respond to the above question. Yes, I noticed a difference with new front end components. I used Moog parts and Spohn adjusters. I didn't buy the Moog parts from Spohn, I get better prices at work. A nice, tight front end is a beautiful thing...
#13
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Wow I was just about to post a very similar thread. I too need to rebuild my front end as well as springs and my struts as well since I did the rear last year.
One question though, what control arm bushings did you use? The ones on spohns site or others?
So far I plan on getting spohns moog kit, Hotchkiss springs and koni struts.
I am thinking of getting a new brake kit too but not sure about that yet.
One question though, what control arm bushings did you use? The ones on spohns site or others?
So far I plan on getting spohns moog kit, Hotchkiss springs and koni struts.
I am thinking of getting a new brake kit too but not sure about that yet.
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
Originally posted by 92RS shearn
One question though, what control arm bushings did you use? The ones on spohns site or others?
So far I plan on getting spohns moog kit, Hotchkiss springs and koni struts.
I am thinking of getting a new brake kit too but not sure about that yet.
One question though, what control arm bushings did you use? The ones on spohns site or others?
So far I plan on getting spohns moog kit, Hotchkiss springs and koni struts.
I am thinking of getting a new brake kit too but not sure about that yet.
#15
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Guys thanks for the input. I am definitely going to go ahead and buy the stuff. Where is a good source to buy moog parts from? Do any of the auto stores sell them?
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Many auto parts stores do carry them, but as stated before, spohn carries all the parts you need for it in one box, so no part number guessing. Plus he is a sponsor of this site.
#18
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
I posted a list of parts to re-build the front-end. you can get moog or BETTER (moog is the lower line at Napa) all localy
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=MRC
and here
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=MRC
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=MRC
and here
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=MRC
#19
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Dewey,
Thanks for the links they are really good. Hey will this make the ride of my car stiffer tighter and a little smoother over the bumps? If that is possible.
Thanks
Bill
Thanks for the links they are really good. Hey will this make the ride of my car stiffer tighter and a little smoother over the bumps? If that is possible.
Thanks
Bill
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
it will make the steering much more responsive. the bushings will help. stiff and smooth tend to be two diffrent worlds. that is mostly controled by the spring/strut/shock combo. a good set of shocks/struts will make a big diffrence it the ride of the car.
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
it depends on what you have around yoru place.
the old ones can be taken out with a drill, a hammer, and punch. (a sawzall will help here also) the new one do need to be pressed in. if you have a nice vice, you could probably get it in with the vice, or just swing them by a shop. if you have the old bushing out, i don't imagine a shop charging more than about $20 to press them in.
the old ones can be taken out with a drill, a hammer, and punch. (a sawzall will help here also) the new one do need to be pressed in. if you have a nice vice, you could probably get it in with the vice, or just swing them by a shop. if you have the old bushing out, i don't imagine a shop charging more than about $20 to press them in.
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Car: '85 Firebird Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 4 barrel LG4
Transmission: TH-700R4
Originally posted by Half-FastRacing
I bought and just installed the Spohn front end rebuild kit. It comes complete with all Moog parts, except Spohn's nice tie-rod adjusters.
I bought and just installed the Spohn front end rebuild kit. It comes complete with all Moog parts, except Spohn's nice tie-rod adjusters.
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
those are inlcuded. he meant everything was moog execpt for that part. which is built by spohn.
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Car: '85 Firebird Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 4 barrel LG4
Transmission: TH-700R4
OK thanks. I thought I was missing something. Spohn does have some nice looking front end stuff. I had been looking at a kit from PST. I'm planning on a front end rebuild next winter when my car is off the road. So just shopping at this point and looking at options. By the way PST has a nice "how to rebuild your front end" video for 20 bucks...
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