Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

so i want to lower my car..

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Old 06-15-2004, 04:49 PM
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Car: 1990 firebird
Engine: 3.1 v6
Transmission: 700R4
so i want to lower my car..

what would you guys suggest i get , i dont want to just get springs id rather do a complete job, i have searched but i havent found all the components i would need for a proper lowering . springs, lca's, i know im missing alot more ..
Old 06-15-2004, 07:08 PM
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 Tbi (L03)
Transmission: 700r4
Ajustable panhard rod, possibly camber plates if camber cant be corrected.
Old 06-15-2004, 10:14 PM
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Car: 1990 firebird
Engine: 3.1 v6
Transmission: 700R4
so i would be getting the springs, adjustable lca? , and adjustable panhard rod
Old 06-15-2004, 10:35 PM
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Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
adjustable control arms are really necessary, ofcourse stronger ones will help hooking, but what you really need is lca relocation brackets to correct the geometry
Old 06-16-2004, 07:59 AM
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Heres what i would do Springs of course, then new a-arm busings while your at it and ball joints. Then relocation brackets and adjustable PHB from spohn and if you wanna spend the money just the non adjustable lca with the poly bushings. Thats what i got and there nice wish i would of got chrome molly tho O well.
Old 06-16-2004, 09:21 AM
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What you really need, is lowering springs or the time/energy to cut up a set of moog IROC replacements, 100 bucks VS 220-240. An adjustable PHB (I have 4 brand new ones, pm me for a price). And thats all you really NEED. Since you have a V6 you don't really need relocating brackets, i fact your car might handle better if you do not have relocating brackets. Bushings are good, i would reccomend them. and you must have good shocks, in fact before i would spend a cent on lowering parts i would go buy premium shocks. PM me or call me tonight and i will tell you my NYC lowering story so you don't waste your money.
Old 06-16-2004, 01:46 PM
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Yes with lowering springs you need some bilsteins.
Old 06-16-2004, 02:44 PM
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
I just redid most of my front suspension this year.

Tokico struts
Suspension Techniques springs (1.5" drop)
Brand-new Z28 control arms with bushings and ball joints (beefier and with a shorter steering stop than the V6 ones)
Moog stabilizer bar end links

I didn't do any bracing and it still turned out really well. Corners great. The Tokico (and I think KYBs) are still covered by warranty if you only do the 1.5" drop. And it looks way better now with the drop.
Old 06-16-2004, 04:57 PM
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Car: 1990 firebird
Engine: 3.1 v6
Transmission: 700R4
keep the suggestions coming fellas , this can help alot of people out
Old 06-16-2004, 05:01 PM
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i also agree if ur not planning on alot of power netime soon u dont need the lca's or relocation brackets.
Old 06-21-2004, 05:47 PM
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I have a pro kit on order but after reading that it will be pretty close to the ride hight of my worn out springs I might sell them and get an Intrax 2 drop. I replaced my shocks and struts a few months agao with Stock replacemnts for the front and KYB GR2s in the back. My question is... Will it be ok to go with intrax or should I keep the pro kit? Intrax is about $170 to the $240 of the pro kit. I also Have an adjustable panhard bar. thanks


Also, does anyone know if there is a big difference in quality between Intrax and Ibach?

Last edited by camaro05; 06-21-2004 at 06:39 PM.
Old 06-21-2004, 06:00 PM
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With the lower springs ide get better shocks.
Old 06-21-2004, 07:30 PM
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
There is a lot of good and bad information in this thread.

You do not need adj LCA's when lowering.
You do need adj LCA's with an adj torque arm
You do not need new shocks although your stockers will wear much faster when lowered.
You DO need an adj panhard rod and relocation brackets. The brackets are must even if you have a 4 banger under the hood. Without them the LCA's are not doing their job and the axle is not firmly planted on the road when the car is moved.
The adj panhard bar will recenter the rear.
I would not cut any spring becuase you can cause more harm then good and the car can become unstable.
You can cut some aftermarket coils because they are progressive and a tiny bit off of one coil won't changed the overall dynamics of the spring that much. There is aright way and a wrong way to cut springs.

So to sum it up. You need relocation brackets, adj panhard rod, and springs at the minimum. Your car will be lower and the rear will be in its origonally desinged location to keep you safe and working the way it should. Then if you have the money get new shocks and struts and any other suspension peice you want.
Old 06-21-2004, 09:38 PM
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Seeing as he lives in NYC (i live a few blocks away) he does in fact need good shocks. Soft/worn shock will make his car bottom relentlessly, unless he runs extremely firm springs. I had a pro-kit and tokico HP's and it was murder. Unless you live where the roads are glassy smooth good dampers are the first upgrade to make. If not control over bumps goes out the window. Now i know that he did not ask about handling but it will pay big dividends in handling while keeping his car off the bumpstops over every sewer grate, metal joint, construction plate, and crappy pothole repair. He does need an APHB to recenter the rear, but LCA brackets are frosting on the cake. Many people on this board raise their LCA's for better handling, traction IMHO with his V6 is not an issue. I have had an 84 lowered since 90 without LCA brackets and i never found traction an issue. You can cut springs just fine so long as your careful and precise, i sincerely doubt he will be cutting his springs. Since he is 17 and on a tight budget it is a great way to save money, if done properly. Herb Adams demonstrates how to do it to a third gen in his Chassis dynamics book. Its also known that the stock IROC spring rates are quite good. I know many people have there opinions about how to lower a car, but there are many factors and i have been through it before, We both drive in the same environment and i would hate to see him waste his money and get stuck worse off than he started
Old 06-21-2004, 09:43 PM
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
I must be lucky. My rear shocks are completely shot and cannot even keep the piston from sliding back into the case under the force of gravity alone. I have the sportlines and have never bottomed out on the worst of roads. Lowering will ruin your stock shocks over time but even if they are dead your car shouldn't bottom out. I do have 26" tall tires which may be why.
Old 06-21-2004, 09:55 PM
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alot of times different shocks fail in different ways, i had 2 sets of tokico's fail on high speed damping but continue to ride firm and handle well, when you hit a sharp bump the wheel lookes like a basketball. i have also had shocks seize, they feel very firm but the suspension isn't working. Sometimes i wonder if NY has the worst roads in the world, i can't imagine how some guys can lower their cars so much and get away with it?? i see so many imports bouncing on their stops over craters!! i don't know how they can stand it.
Old 06-22-2004, 12:08 AM
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Car: 1990 firebird
Engine: 3.1 v6
Transmission: 700R4
only laiky can back me up on how bad roads around our neighborhood, i have a better chance taking advice from someone who drives on the same street , and yeh its funny seeing import drivers bounce around in there car, id be pissed
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