LCA's and Relo brackets in...car higher?!
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
LCA's and Relo brackets in...car higher?!
I put on a set of BMR tubeular LCA's and a set of the BMR Bolt on relocation brackets. I have the LCA's set on the bottom hole...why did my rear go up a 1/2" ....I dont like it that high. Before I put the relo's on my rear sat at 27" and now it sits at 27.5"
Before I put the relo's and LCA's my stock LCA's wre angled pointing up and now they are angle pointing down. Should I put them in the middle hole to have them sitting level?
If that will give me back the lower stance in the rear then I'll do it.
LCA's dont have to be angle down do they? atleast level?
Before I put the relo's and LCA's my stock LCA's wre angled pointing up and now they are angle pointing down. Should I put them in the middle hole to have them sitting level?
If that will give me back the lower stance in the rear then I'll do it.
LCA's dont have to be angle down do they? atleast level?
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Re: LCA's and Relo brackets in...car higher?!
Originally posted by Wishmaster's87IROC
I put on a set of BMR tubeular LCA's and a set of the BMR Bolt on relocation brackets. I have the LCA's set on the bottom hole...why did my rear go up a 1/2" ....I dont like it that high. Before I put the relo's on my rear sat at 27" and now it sits at 27.5"
Before I put the relo's and LCA's my stock LCA's wre angled pointing up and now they are angle pointing down. Should I put them in the middle hole to have them sitting level?
If that will give me back the lower stance in the rear then I'll do it.
LCA's dont have to be angle down do they? atleast level?
I put on a set of BMR tubeular LCA's and a set of the BMR Bolt on relocation brackets. I have the LCA's set on the bottom hole...why did my rear go up a 1/2" ....I dont like it that high. Before I put the relo's on my rear sat at 27" and now it sits at 27.5"
Before I put the relo's and LCA's my stock LCA's wre angled pointing up and now they are angle pointing down. Should I put them in the middle hole to have them sitting level?
If that will give me back the lower stance in the rear then I'll do it.
LCA's dont have to be angle down do they? atleast level?
The coil springs control ride height.
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
Originally posted by Zerstörer
Time for some lowering springs..
Time for some lowering springs..
I already have lowering springs.
Im 26 1/4 in the front and 27.5 in the rear.
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: ZZ4 fast burn with TPIS mini ram.
Transmission: Viper T10 6 spd.
Axle/Gears: 3.73
When you tightned the lower control arm bolts,was the cars rear suspension loaded with the weight of the car on it or was your rear axel hanging freely? The first time I did a rear end swap I forgot to have the cars weight on it's suspension and the car was almost a inch higher at the rear
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
When I tightened the control arm bolts, I had the rear jacked up on a jack with all the wieght of the car on. SHould I have done it when the car was resting on the ground?
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If they are poly or rod-end LCAs, then it won't matter whether the car was on the ground or not.
It is not possible for the LCAs and/or reloc brackets to change the ride height. I'm not saying your ride height didn't change, only that those parts didn't cause it to do so.
Fill your gas tank up? Put the spare back in? Check tire pressures? etc. etc. There's way way way too many variables in your measurement technique to consider it even remotely nearly reliable.
It is not possible for the LCAs and/or reloc brackets to change the ride height. I'm not saying your ride height didn't change, only that those parts didn't cause it to do so.
Fill your gas tank up? Put the spare back in? Check tire pressures? etc. etc. There's way way way too many variables in your measurement technique to consider it even remotely nearly reliable.
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#8
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And yes, having the LCAs level (street/strip) or angled slightly down (auto-x) is preferable unless you really need launch traction. I'd be getting new tires before dropping the LCA angle too much, though.
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Car: 94 Corvette
Engine: LT-1
Transmission: Freakin Automatic---For Now
Here is something to try. Jack it up until the tires ALMOST leave the ground and then get under there and give each of the rear springs a good jerk in each direction to be sure that they seated. I have Eibach's in the rear of my car, and they almost alway come unseated when I jack it up.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by CaysE
And yes, having the LCAs level (street/strip) or angled slightly down (auto-x) is preferable unless you really need launch traction. I'd be getting new tires before dropping the LCA angle too much, though.
And yes, having the LCAs level (street/strip) or angled slightly down (auto-x) is preferable unless you really need launch traction. I'd be getting new tires before dropping the LCA angle too much, though.
you want them slightly down for street/strip... and....... slightly down for autoX..... sure you want them level for autoX.... but you also want them level for everything else.
but you need to error with the rear side DOWN so that you dont break traction. cornering or not.
#11
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It's really a miniscule difference on whether the LCA is straight or angled slightly down when you're driving on the street or running 1/4 mile times. In my opinion, it should be as level as possible in these situations, erroring on the side of a downward angle. There are only three bolt holes at most on any relocation bracket anyway, so it's not going to be rocket science.
In auto-x though, you need them angled down. You don't want your outside tire hopping when you cut a hard turn under acceleration.
In auto-x though, you need them angled down. You don't want your outside tire hopping when you cut a hard turn under acceleration.
#12
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
LOL!.....you guys are getting me all confused. Should they be level (middle hole) or angled down (lower hole) which is where I put them.
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
I drive like a normal every day driver. Im kinda to scared to attempt to take a sharp turn at high speeds in fear that the rear will come out from under me.
But I do want max traction at the track.
But I do want max traction at the track.
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Car: 94 Corvette
Engine: LT-1
Transmission: Freakin Automatic---For Now
Originally posted by Wishmaster's87IROC
I drive like a normal every day driver.
I drive like a normal every day driver.
Originally posted by Wishmaster's87IROC
Im kinda to scared to attempt to take a sharp turn at high speeds in fear that the rear will come out from under me.
Im kinda to scared to attempt to take a sharp turn at high speeds in fear that the rear will come out from under me.
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
Don't be, these cars actually handle pretty good. Just work your way up to it. If you try a 15MPH corner the first time at 60, you are going to screw it up. If you go through that corner a little faster each time, you'll get more and more comfortable with your car, and you'll be pounding corners in no time. I actually like to hammer through the twisties more than doing the straight line thing. [/B]
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