Lack of traction and how to cure it...
#1
Lack of traction and how to cure it...
In my 91 Formula I've got EXTREME traction problems. Initially the car ran a best time of 14.3@98mph... Since then I've done all the typical small bolt ons and tweaks and now the car runs a best of 14.6@101.6MPH on the Gtech. My track times on the strip are horrible because the damn tires spin clean thru second gear.
So, the suspension is about stock... I'm running an Iroc wonderbar, an Iroc front fender/cowl brace, Alston SFC's, Hotchkis LCA's, etc... If it matters I'm running an Energy Suspension tranny mount and the tires are BFG Comp T/A VR4's that are less than two weeks old.
How can I make this thing stick to the ground? I want ZERO tire spin. I want to be able to launch the car at 1500rpm in 3rd gear without massive tire spin.
I'm thinking full slicks, poly torque arm mount, aftermarket torque arm, etc... Maybe some weight transfer mods (battery in trunk), etc. I've also thought about installing softer springs in the *** end to improve weight transfer... Perhaps lighter sway bars?
I'm running head to head with AWD Talon's and EVO's with lack of traction at stoplights being the #1 issue.
So, the suspension is about stock... I'm running an Iroc wonderbar, an Iroc front fender/cowl brace, Alston SFC's, Hotchkis LCA's, etc... If it matters I'm running an Energy Suspension tranny mount and the tires are BFG Comp T/A VR4's that are less than two weeks old.
How can I make this thing stick to the ground? I want ZERO tire spin. I want to be able to launch the car at 1500rpm in 3rd gear without massive tire spin.
I'm thinking full slicks, poly torque arm mount, aftermarket torque arm, etc... Maybe some weight transfer mods (battery in trunk), etc. I've also thought about installing softer springs in the *** end to improve weight transfer... Perhaps lighter sway bars?
I'm running head to head with AWD Talon's and EVO's with lack of traction at stoplights being the #1 issue.
#2
Zero wheel spins is gonna be hard to accomplish unless you do some major suspension/frame mods.
I can think of a few things like relocation brackets for your LCA's to make full use of the added stability. Also a heavy duty torque arm will aid you alot. I feel you on the traction issues, My iroc get horribly sideways and spins for days before it ever hooks. I have to baby it off the line and shes all stock, running similar times to yours. Some slicks or drag radials will help out alot too, but be careful you don't damage the tranny doing too many hard launches. A torque converter will help you out as well! Best of luck
Will
I can think of a few things like relocation brackets for your LCA's to make full use of the added stability. Also a heavy duty torque arm will aid you alot. I feel you on the traction issues, My iroc get horribly sideways and spins for days before it ever hooks. I have to baby it off the line and shes all stock, running similar times to yours. Some slicks or drag radials will help out alot too, but be careful you don't damage the tranny doing too many hard launches. A torque converter will help you out as well! Best of luck
Will
#3
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remove front sway all together.
battery relocation in trunk.
i would do drag radials, not slicks on a stock 10 bolt.
lower control arms and reloation brackets from spohn.
all those should help quite a bit.
battery relocation in trunk.
i would do drag radials, not slicks on a stock 10 bolt.
lower control arms and reloation brackets from spohn.
all those should help quite a bit.
#4
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Do you have a auto or manual?
I dont think any mid-14 second car should have traction problems on stock suspension ...Especially if you have an automatic. I'd be willing to bet something is just worn out like your shocks maybe? I'd check out all your current suspension parts and make sure they're all in good working order before I went and spent tons of money on expensive suspension parts.
I dont think any mid-14 second car should have traction problems on stock suspension ...Especially if you have an automatic. I'd be willing to bet something is just worn out like your shocks maybe? I'd check out all your current suspension parts and make sure they're all in good working order before I went and spent tons of money on expensive suspension parts.
#6
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Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Dude your parts pile is even bigger than mine lol.
You sure your posi is in good working order and not worn out?
I know a guy with a 89 l98 formula...only suspension mod is lca relocation brackets and he hooks hard.
You sure your posi is in good working order and not worn out?
I know a guy with a 89 l98 formula...only suspension mod is lca relocation brackets and he hooks hard.
#7
The suspension under the car is all in really good shape. When I got the car it hooked up extremely well... Various porting, fuel pressure changes, other mild modifications, etc have resulted in extreme tire spin. That combined with ****ty track conditions is what makes me ask how to improve the traction. I'm confident with traction that this car would run mid 13's, but short of un-modifying the car I dont know how I'm going to get the traction back.
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#8
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
I'd get slicks or drag radials. You have aftermarket LCAs? What about relocation brackets? They're supposed to help quite a bit. Maybe get rear air bags as well and some ajustable shocks. I wouldn't worry about breaking your rear with sticky tires at your level of performance, they'll take more of a beating them most people give them credit for.
#9
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
I wouldn't worry about breaking your rear with sticky tires at your level of performance, they'll take more of a beating them most people give them credit for.
I wouldn't worry about breaking your rear with sticky tires at your level of performance, they'll take more of a beating them most people give them credit for.
I think my next repairs/upgrades/mods on the car are going to be a more durable posi carrier, some transmission work, and possibly an aftermarket torque arm followed by LCA relocation brackets...
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Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
The relocation brackets helped my buddies formula out a lot. He just has a set of headers, LCA relocation brackets and free mods. He runs 8.7 at 79mph in the 1/8th.
Another friend has a 1991 laser turbo with more mods than I care to list here...you name it he has it. With slicks he only runs a 8.7...I think its funny.
Another friend has a 1991 laser turbo with more mods than I care to list here...you name it he has it. With slicks he only runs a 8.7...I think its funny.
#11
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
i hate to be the guy to say it, but your #1 problem is the driver.
just the fact that you know they spin thru 2nd gear shows you didnt launch the car correctly. you'll be faster if you ease into it and not break the tires loose, then you are spinning them down the track.
and whats this about starting in 3rd gear? i hope you have a auto and ment "leave it in D"
as far as hooking, your first mod should be relocation brackets... before tires, before weight transfer, before anythign massive, just use what you have.
once you have the proper geometry, then get some sticky tires... and learn how to launch... theres more to it then just slamming the gas down.
just the fact that you know they spin thru 2nd gear shows you didnt launch the car correctly. you'll be faster if you ease into it and not break the tires loose, then you are spinning them down the track.
and whats this about starting in 3rd gear? i hope you have a auto and ment "leave it in D"
as far as hooking, your first mod should be relocation brackets... before tires, before weight transfer, before anythign massive, just use what you have.
once you have the proper geometry, then get some sticky tires... and learn how to launch... theres more to it then just slamming the gas down.
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Car: '89 Formula 350 & '86 Z28
Engine: L98 & 355ci
Transmission: 700r4 in both
Ill agree with others, for what your car runs (MPH) you shouldnt have "serious" traction problems. You should first work on driving abilites.
Does your G-tech do 60' times? If so, Practice
Also, zero tire spin isnt the best way(being nit picky ). They say 15% tire slip is the most efficiant.
If I had to tell you one place to start, I would say to get relocation brackets, so you can change your instant center to help you out
Does your G-tech do 60' times? If so, Practice
Also, zero tire spin isnt the best way(being nit picky ). They say 15% tire slip is the most efficiant.
If I had to tell you one place to start, I would say to get relocation brackets, so you can change your instant center to help you out
#13
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Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
What about good street tires. I've run Mich XGT V 245/50 and Goodyear F1 GS-D3 245/50 with excellent results. I have zero tire spin as long as it is at least 60 degrees out.
#14
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Car: 2002 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
what are some good street tires for 15" rims, i was looking into getting some 235/60/15s for the rear. I currently have 3.73 gears, 2400 stall, and a th700r4 and have a best 60' time of 2.007 seconds. I am not yet about to mash the throttle when launching, so i know i could be in the 1.9xx range with some good tires. I have all the suspension mods in the world so i know my Goodyear GTIIs (215/65) are holding me back.
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