Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

caster and camber settings

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Old 03-21-2004 | 06:04 PM
  #1  
Colin Moseley's Avatar
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From: Leeds UK
Car: Z28 IROC Z
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: AUTO
caster and camber settings

Hi
Can anybody give advise on setting please.
Late last year i aquired a 1989 camaro z28 iroc z converible.
I have a list of bits to do , buying four new tyres before i fit the front ones i need to check the caster and camber angles, i know that the camber is incorrect , but in the chiltons manuel it does not give any settings. If anybody does have any settings can you give me the toe in as well please.
Cheers:hail:
Old 03-21-2004 | 07:37 PM
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Trickster's Avatar
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Will this be sufficent for your needs.
Attached Thumbnails caster and camber settings-tire.jpg  
Old 03-22-2004 | 05:35 AM
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From: Edinburgh, Scotland
Car: 1985 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci from 79camaro
Transmission: 5 speed manual on lsd
I disagree with that. It is my understanding that the iroc had different settings. where camber was 1degree, and castor was 5deg one side, 5.5 the other. Remember to get it the right was round for the side of the road your on.

Si. :lala:

Last edited by iroc-si; 03-22-2004 at 05:41 AM.
Old 03-22-2004 | 05:58 AM
  #4  
Trickster's Avatar
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
All of these measurements are out of the 1989 GM service manual and there was no mention of different measurements between the various models of cars. On later years there may have been, However that is not documented in this manual. Here is some more info on it. What you are probably referring to is the rear tires.
Attached Thumbnails caster and camber settings-rear.jpg  
Old 03-22-2004 | 06:00 AM
  #5  
Trickster's Avatar
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Some more
Attached Thumbnails caster and camber settings-rear2.jpg  
Old 03-22-2004 | 06:02 AM
  #6  
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
and some more
Attached Thumbnails caster and camber settings-rear3.jpg  
Old 03-22-2004 | 06:56 AM
  #7  
iroc-si's Avatar
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From: Edinburgh, Scotland
Car: 1985 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350ci from 79camaro
Transmission: 5 speed manual on lsd
try having a look at :

http://pageperso.aol.fr/sdgreyefdbv/...MENT+SPECS.htm

Si.

ps. Trickster: do you have any info on adjusting the castor angle. I know its done by moving the top of the strut mounting plate, but is there a method that preferred as to car on the ground, in the air... etc?
Old 03-22-2004 | 11:52 AM
  #8  
RMK's Avatar
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: modded LB9
Transmission: Pro Built 700R4
I'm putting a copy of this over to the suspension board. I believe Andy Fanshaw had 1 (or both) of his cars altered for driving on the wrong side of the road. Maybe he could chime in with some information. I know there are a couple of people who have talked about it in the past.
Old 03-22-2004 | 12:26 PM
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
you just mirror the left and right for what was is written in the US manuals.


direct from https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml

Code:
Q: What are the factory front end alignment specs?

A: With the stock Good Year 215/65R/15s, the settings were: 

     Caster      +3 degrees  +/- .5 degree
     Camber      +1 degree   +/- .5 degree
     Toe in     .15 degree   +/- .5 degree 


Q: What are some suggested front end alignment specs?

A: A table in the Camaro & Firebird Perforamnce Handbook for 3rd Generation cars lists the following recommendations: 

                                                                        
                      Caster           Camber          Toe Total
                       (deg)            (deg)            (in)
                     L      R         L        R
   Street           +4    +4.5       -.5      -.5        3/32
   Hard Street Use  +5    +5.5       -1       -1         3/32
   Drag Racing      +4    +4          0        0         1/32
   Road racing      +6    +6         -1.75    -1.75      Short Course
                                                          1/8 out
                                                         Long Course
                                                          1/16 in

The figures are credited to Global West Suspension Components and are taken with driver weight included.

i have mine set at a nutural +5 caster -1 camber and 3/32 with me sitting in it.

made a HUGE diff in handling.
Old 03-22-2004 | 07:57 PM
  #10  
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The different l/r caster setting for street compensates for the crown in the road. Racetracks are flat, thus no variance in caster left to right sides.
Old 03-22-2004 | 08:11 PM
  #11  
George's Avatar
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From: Stouffville, Ontario
Car: 83WS6TA
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: TH350C
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Definetly go to negative camber if for no other reason than to preserve the outside edges of your tyres - the stock pos. camber setting is insane.
Old 03-22-2004 | 10:19 PM
  #12  
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From: Greenville S.C.
Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
Alignment settings have been mentioned a thousand times (maybe 1001) on this board. The stock settings call for about a full degree of positive camber. I'd go for about a half degree to a full degree of neg. camber, depending on what your doing with the car. Caster doesn't really matter, just as long as its even (or a half degree more positive caster on right side to compensate for road crown).

You should take it to an alignment shop. There is no way you can do an alignment yourself and expect the measurements to be right.

The camber and caster adjustments are made by moving the top of the strut mount. Side to side for camber and front to back for caster. If there isn't enough adjustment (camber only) in the mount then a cam kit may be required (or drilling the tower-last resort). You can buy cam kits from napa and autozone. Its an eccentric that allows adjustment from the bottom hole of the spindle where the strut attaches.

I make my adjustments with the car in the air using a northstar f-body tool. Then I lower the car back onto the turnplates and redo the caster sweep. The only reason I do the adjustment in the air is because its easier to move. It can be done with the suspension loaded but its difficult.
Old 03-23-2004 | 02:05 PM
  #13  
Colin Moseley's Avatar
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From: Leeds UK
Car: Z28 IROC Z
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: AUTO
THANKS CHAPS THATS A GREAT HELP :lala:
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