8 Point Roll Bar/Cage
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Car: 2013 Challenger RT
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8 Point Roll Bar/Cage
I live in Northern IL. Anyone who has had an 8 point installed in ther car, where did you have it done. I do all my work myself, but this I want to have professionaly done (right the first time LOL!). I will drive the car up to 500 miles to have it done. I plan on eventually getting 500hp out of my 355 and want the body as stiff as possible. For now it will be for looks.
Any body got pics of all the roll bar mounting points on their car? I'd like to see how they are welded in or bolted in. I would like pics of both types of installs.
Any body got pics of all the roll bar mounting points on their car? I'd like to see how they are welded in or bolted in. I would like pics of both types of installs.
Last edited by my3rdgen; 11-14-2003 at 08:16 AM.
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I had mine done at Macomb, IL (Home of Western Illinois U). It was done by Jim at Precesion Tool and Welding. I had a S&W race cars 8 point kit I stripped the car and I helped Jim as much as I could when he Mig'd the bars in. I then reinstalled the interior myself.
Bad thing about bolting them in they need to have a 6x6 plate on both sides. While welding you just need a 6x6 plate on the top side.
Here my pics.
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/433125/2
I had to modify the kit so that the main hoop sits back a little further. (I'm 6'5).
Bad thing about bolting them in they need to have a 6x6 plate on both sides. While welding you just need a 6x6 plate on the top side.
Here my pics.
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/433125/2
I had to modify the kit so that the main hoop sits back a little further. (I'm 6'5).
#3
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main hoop welds ontop of the beginning of the rear subframe just infront of the back seats, rear bars weld above gas tank toward the back of the hump, again above subframe rails, side front bars weld at the back end of the front subframe, atleast thats how i did it
#4
When looking to have my cage installed in my Camaro I had many options. I talked to the guys at S&W, and some of the local guys in NJ that were building cars for NMCA classes and E-town Quick 8. I was even helping at night at one of the best shops in the state. But in the end I wound up at Ed Quay. He is located in Pottstown PA. This guy has been there since the beginning of Pro-Stock as he built Grumpy's Vega. His design is a little different but it is tested and proven. Ed himself is still helping tune chassis for Pro Mod style cars and some Pro-Stock car. He built the car that Phil Plestsis won Heavy Street in Orlando going high 7's in 2001. I got great service and all my questions answered and everything was done when they said it would be done. The Camaro is the one car they specialize. They have tons of parts for it but mostly Super Stock style. They will work with you on what you want. They do sell kits for the cages but after seeing the work I would let them do it as it is first quality work. The welds are incredible and perfect. Give them a call or check out there website at edquay.com
If you want I might have some pictures of my cage if you want I can send them to you or I might try to post them later for you. If you call tell them Ken Sensi let you know about them. Hope this helps.
Ken
If you want I might have some pictures of my cage if you want I can send them to you or I might try to post them later for you. If you call tell them Ken Sensi let you know about them. Hope this helps.
Ken
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Car: 89Iroc Vert, 86 Iroc/Z28
Engine: 383carb, 350 TBI
Transmission: Th350, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disk, 3.42
IF you want to, you can see my car, its has a 8 point in it, i did all the work myself. I'm just over the border in Kenosha,Wi.
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Car: 2013 Challenger RT
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Originally posted by TheNutzZ28
IF you want to, you can see my car, its has a 8 point in it, i did all the work myself. I'm just over the border in Kenosha,Wi.
IF you want to, you can see my car, its has a 8 point in it, i did all the work myself. I'm just over the border in Kenosha,Wi.
Thanx to all for the input. All ideas and comments are welcome.
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Car: 89Iroc Vert, 86 Iroc/Z28
Engine: 383carb, 350 TBI
Transmission: Th350, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disk, 3.42
Well let me know when you want to see it and I will give ya directions to get up here. I can't drive the car to meet up with ya, don't have insurance on it and I pulled my rims off.
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Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
I am going to cage my car this winter 8 or 10 point i don't know yet. I am going to do it myself. My car flexes so damn bad. I hope to be mid-bottom 7's in the spring, on motor and maybe 6's if i spray it so I know I am gonna need a cage. Who makes the best cages for our cars?
Thanks
Thanks
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Car: 2013 Challenger RT
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3:92
Originally posted by LilJayV10
I am going to cage my car this winter 8 or 10 point i don't know yet. I am going to do it myself. My car flexes so damn bad. I hope to be mid-bottom 7's in the spring, on motor and maybe 6's if i spray it so I know I am gonna need a cage. Who makes the best cages for our cars?
Thanks
I am going to cage my car this winter 8 or 10 point i don't know yet. I am going to do it myself. My car flexes so damn bad. I hope to be mid-bottom 7's in the spring, on motor and maybe 6's if i spray it so I know I am gonna need a cage. Who makes the best cages for our cars?
Thanks
Check these guys out, <www.swracecars.com> they have 8 points on sale till Jan 1st. $109.** + $60.00 S&H. Not bad, its like getting your shipping for free.
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Originally posted by TheNutzZ28
Well let me know when you want to see it and I will give ya directions to get up here. I can't drive the car to meet up with ya, don't have insurance on it and I pulled my rims off.
Well let me know when you want to see it and I will give ya directions to get up here. I can't drive the car to meet up with ya, don't have insurance on it and I pulled my rims off.
#12
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i have a competition engineering 8 point cage, i installed it myself.....but i work with steel and tubing and im a good welder.
if you wanna have it done its going to be expensive, cause its quite a bit of work....do yourself a favor and strip the interior yourself, thats a good chunk of the process.
if you dont have acces to tubing notchers, spare tubing, a good band saw, and a good welder.......not something to try at home
if you wanna have it done its going to be expensive, cause its quite a bit of work....do yourself a favor and strip the interior yourself, thats a good chunk of the process.
if you dont have acces to tubing notchers, spare tubing, a good band saw, and a good welder.......not something to try at home
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Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Originally posted by my3rdgen
To obtain the times you quoted I am assuming you are going to tub it?
Check these guys out, <www.swracecars.com> they have 8 points on sale till Jan 1st. $109.** + $60.00 S&H. Not bad, its like getting your shipping for free.
To obtain the times you quoted I am assuming you are going to tub it?
Check these guys out, <www.swracecars.com> they have 8 points on sale till Jan 1st. $109.** + $60.00 S&H. Not bad, its like getting your shipping for free.
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Car: 2013 Challenger RT
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Axle/Gears: 3:92
Originally posted by 383backinblack
i have a competition engineering 8 point cage, i installed it myself.....but i work with steel and tubing and im a good welder.
if you wanna have it done its going to be expensive, cause its quite a bit of work....do yourself a favor and strip the interior yourself, thats a good chunk of the process.
if you dont have acces to tubing notchers, spare tubing, a good band saw, and a good welder.......not something to try at home
i have a competition engineering 8 point cage, i installed it myself.....but i work with steel and tubing and im a good welder.
if you wanna have it done its going to be expensive, cause its quite a bit of work....do yourself a favor and strip the interior yourself, thats a good chunk of the process.
if you dont have acces to tubing notchers, spare tubing, a good band saw, and a good welder.......not something to try at home
Got any tips?
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Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
does this cage clear the arm rests? Also does anyone make prebent ones that go around the arm rest. I mustangs have this I didn't know about us.
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Originally posted by LilJayV10
Thats in the 1/8 mile not the 1/4. I hope to run mid 11's in the quarter and maybe high 10s on a 100 shot.
Thats in the 1/8 mile not the 1/4. I hope to run mid 11's in the quarter and maybe high 10s on a 100 shot.
I am shooting for 12's without NO2 and 11's with it. But we'll see, I bet I need the gofastgas to get into the 12's. That's OK though, it'll still be fun!
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Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Originally posted by LilJayV10
does this cage clear the arm rests? Also does anyone make prebent ones that go around the arm rest. I mustangs have this I didn't know about us.
does this cage clear the arm rests? Also does anyone make prebent ones that go around the arm rest. I mustangs have this I didn't know about us.
#18
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Originally posted by my3rdgen
I am going to go with a pre notched kit from <www.swracecars.com>. I can weld, its just that my job doesn't require me to do a lot of it. I am an industrial "Mectritian" in a factory, we cover all mecanical and electrical bases, I do not have much practice welding thick (1/8 inch and up) metal to thin sheet metal (car body), my job doesn't call for much work like that, I am afraid I might burn through. I must practice first.
Got any tips?
I am going to go with a pre notched kit from <www.swracecars.com>. I can weld, its just that my job doesn't require me to do a lot of it. I am an industrial "Mectritian" in a factory, we cover all mecanical and electrical bases, I do not have much practice welding thick (1/8 inch and up) metal to thin sheet metal (car body), my job doesn't call for much work like that, I am afraid I might burn through. I must practice first.
Got any tips?
the kit should come ith 6"x6" steel plates that weld to the floor pan.....these are required in order to meet rule requirements...if the kit doesnt have them....buy a different kit.
clean all paint, goo etc off the surface before you try and weld it...it'll just make it cleaner and alot easier to do....turn the voltage and feed down on the welder (mig) and concentrate the arc on the heavier steel, and weave and flow it into the sheetmetal.....this will give you the best bead quality with the least change of burning through the sheet metal....it takes practice
you'll need to get good at welding on your back and upside down too to finish all the welds.
when installing the cage....tack weld all the parts on 3 sides....dont do any finish or heavy welding until everything is tacked....or it could draw and tweak the chassis
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Originally posted by LilJayV10
does this cage clear the arm rests? Also does anyone make prebent ones that go around the arm rest. I mustangs have this I didn't know about us.
does this cage clear the arm rests? Also does anyone make prebent ones that go around the arm rest. I mustangs have this I didn't know about us.
Last edited by my3rdgen; 11-16-2003 at 11:36 AM.
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Car: 89Iroc Vert, 86 Iroc/Z28
Engine: 383carb, 350 TBI
Transmission: Th350, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disk, 3.42
You going to be around on the Thanxgiving Holidays? I have from Thurs. to Sun off of work (miracle). I have to rebuild my 700R4 on one of those days, but I am not sure wich day dad and I are going to do it. I got to call him and see what day he is available.
Nope, Deer season, going way up north in Wisconsin, weekends are good for me, looks like Satruday Dec, 6 should work.
I got my 8-point cage from Jegs and I made it to clear the armrest. As stated by other replies you need to strip the entire inside of the car. Good time to repaint and fix holes if ya have them.
#21
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the competition engineering kit has pre-bent door bars that will clear the arm rests
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Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Originally posted by 383backinblack
the competition engineering kit has pre-bent door bars that will clear the arm rests
the competition engineering kit has pre-bent door bars that will clear the arm rests
#23
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Originally posted by 383backinblack
the kit should come ith 6"x6" steel plates that weld to the floor pan.....these are required in order to meet rule requirements...if the kit doesnt have them....buy a different kit.
the kit should come ith 6"x6" steel plates that weld to the floor pan.....these are required in order to meet rule requirements...if the kit doesnt have them....buy a different kit.
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all the way around. do it in small sections at a time and you won't warp anything.
i have the comp kit, LilJay. backinblack has it too, see his pic above. with the right angle mine cleared the armrests, I will hunt a pic...
i have the comp kit, LilJay. backinblack has it too, see his pic above. with the right angle mine cleared the armrests, I will hunt a pic...
#26
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Originally posted by my3rdgen
To be leagal for most competition does the 6"X6" plate have to be welded all the way around? Or can I stich it? I am concerned about warping the floor pans.
To be leagal for most competition does the 6"X6" plate have to be welded all the way around? Or can I stich it? I am concerned about warping the floor pans.
it needs to be fully welded on at least 3 sides
#27
Guys that plate that goes to the floor needs to be fully welded all the way around. Just remember that bar is there for your safety not just looks. That is what is going to protect you if anything should ever happen. Don't skimp on this project. It will serve a few causes for you; it will help you in an accident(hope it never happens) it will make the car work better at the track, and it will increase the resale value of the car if you should ever sell it.
Also if you think the car will ever go into the 9's you should just put a full cage in it now since it will be apart already. This way you can run the smaller diameter tube for a full cage versus the larger diameter tubing for the roll bar.
I don't want to rain on anybody's parade but that picture of the door bar scares me a little. It should connect at the floor down by your feet more not in the middle of the door. This would allow for more protection of the driver compartment in an accident and it would also strengthen the area around the door as this is a big area that tends to flex on these cars. If it is possible maybe see if you can afford a chromemoly cage. I know they are expensive and tough to install but they are well worth the money.
By the way does anybody else on this board use any of Ed Quays stuff. If not check it out and call him, he knows his stuff about these cars as he has worked on them forever.
Ken
Also if you think the car will ever go into the 9's you should just put a full cage in it now since it will be apart already. This way you can run the smaller diameter tube for a full cage versus the larger diameter tubing for the roll bar.
I don't want to rain on anybody's parade but that picture of the door bar scares me a little. It should connect at the floor down by your feet more not in the middle of the door. This would allow for more protection of the driver compartment in an accident and it would also strengthen the area around the door as this is a big area that tends to flex on these cars. If it is possible maybe see if you can afford a chromemoly cage. I know they are expensive and tough to install but they are well worth the money.
By the way does anybody else on this board use any of Ed Quays stuff. If not check it out and call him, he knows his stuff about these cars as he has worked on them forever.
Ken
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Originally posted by PhilM
all the way around. do it in small sections at a time and you won't warp anything.
i have the comp kit, LilJay. backinblack has it too, see his pic above. with the right angle mine cleared the armrests, I will hunt a pic...
all the way around. do it in small sections at a time and you won't warp anything.
i have the comp kit, LilJay. backinblack has it too, see his pic above. with the right angle mine cleared the armrests, I will hunt a pic...
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I did NHRA tech for years. by the way...you can shape them if need be, or box them in. With these cars you should be able to find able flat areas to weld to.
#30
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Originally posted by PhilM
I did NHRA tech for years. by the way...you can shape them if need be, or box them in. With these cars you should be able to find able flat areas to weld to.
I did NHRA tech for years. by the way...you can shape them if need be, or box them in. With these cars you should be able to find able flat areas to weld to.
In IHRA it only needs to be welded on 3 sides., sorry
in any case....you don't want a moly cage unless you need one.....the entire thing has to be tig welded which is slow and a pain in the ***.....and chromoly steel is strong and light.....but far, far more brittle than mild steel and it can crack with extended flexing and vibration.
thats why moly suspension components aren't a good idea for the street either.
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Originally posted by PhilM
i have the comp kit, LilJay. backinblack has it too, see his pic above. with the right angle mine cleared the armrests, I will hunt a pic...
i have the comp kit, LilJay. backinblack has it too, see his pic above. with the right angle mine cleared the armrests, I will hunt a pic...
#32
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Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Click on this link to another post I contributed to. The general title is misleading, but I have listed some things to look for/do when installing a cage in 3rd gens, hope it helps. Info is about middle of the page when I first started contributiing.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...ight=roll+cage
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...ight=roll+cage
#33
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Yeah, that link also gives you guys an idea of something to do with the extra space. :-)
Easiest way I found with shaping stuff was to dent the floor pan out (I had to relocate the main hoop differently so my install was customized a little bit). Then use a big hammer and prop the plate up against something sturdy I used the cement edge on my garage floor and just beat the crap out of the plate till it starts shaping the way you want it. You'll have to run back and forth and test fit it... course you could just torch it and get it nice and hot and form it that way too.
Easiest way I found with shaping stuff was to dent the floor pan out (I had to relocate the main hoop differently so my install was customized a little bit). Then use a big hammer and prop the plate up against something sturdy I used the cement edge on my garage floor and just beat the crap out of the plate till it starts shaping the way you want it. You'll have to run back and forth and test fit it... course you could just torch it and get it nice and hot and form it that way too.
#34
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Originally posted by fireturd350
Yeah, that link also gives you guys an idea of something to do with the extra space. :-)
Easiest way I found with shaping stuff was to dent the floor pan out (I had to relocate the main hoop differently so my install was customized a little bit). Then use a big hammer and prop the plate up against something sturdy I used the cement edge on my garage floor and just beat the crap out of the plate till it starts shaping the way you want it. You'll have to run back and forth and test fit it... course you could just torch it and get it nice and hot and form it that way too.
Yeah, that link also gives you guys an idea of something to do with the extra space. :-)
Easiest way I found with shaping stuff was to dent the floor pan out (I had to relocate the main hoop differently so my install was customized a little bit). Then use a big hammer and prop the plate up against something sturdy I used the cement edge on my garage floor and just beat the crap out of the plate till it starts shaping the way you want it. You'll have to run back and forth and test fit it... course you could just torch it and get it nice and hot and form it that way too.
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i guess if your car really needs a cage, subs are pretty pointless in my opinion. think of all that extra weight you're adding to the car, you've got boxes, subs, amps, caps, and all that heavy guage cable... if you really NEED a cage you're trying to go fast, and weight wont let you go fast.
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Originally posted by BackInBlack86
i guess if your car really needs a cage, subs are pretty pointless in my opinion. think of all that extra weight you're adding to the car, you've got boxes, subs, amps, caps, and all that heavy guage cable... if you really NEED a cage you're trying to go fast, and weight wont let you go fast.
i guess if your car really needs a cage, subs are pretty pointless in my opinion. think of all that extra weight you're adding to the car, you've got boxes, subs, amps, caps, and all that heavy guage cable... if you really NEED a cage you're trying to go fast, and weight wont let you go fast.
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Originally posted by BackInBlack86
i guess if your car really needs a cage, subs are pretty pointless in my opinion. think of all that extra weight you're adding to the car, you've got boxes, subs, amps, caps, and all that heavy guage cable... if you really NEED a cage you're trying to go fast, and weight wont let you go fast.
i guess if your car really needs a cage, subs are pretty pointless in my opinion. think of all that extra weight you're adding to the car, you've got boxes, subs, amps, caps, and all that heavy guage cable... if you really NEED a cage you're trying to go fast, and weight wont let you go fast.
thats bull.
you just need more power...... and nothings cooler then not only being faster then the other guy, but you can turn on the AC, crank some tunes and ENJOY the car at the same time.
#38
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Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Originally posted by MrDude_1
thats bull.
you just need more power...... and nothings cooler then not only being faster then the other guy, but you can turn on the AC, crank some tunes and ENJOY the car at the same time.
thats bull.
you just need more power...... and nothings cooler then not only being faster then the other guy, but you can turn on the AC, crank some tunes and ENJOY the car at the same time.
#39
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sure, i'll go along with being able to crank the ac, and the tunes, and enjoy the car, that's understandable. but wouldnt it be alot more fun to drive if you were able to get more than a few miles to a tank of gas? when you get into the power issue, more is better, right? so why waste it toting around a bunch of stereo equipment? more power will make you go faster, just the same as less weight will. i dont know about you guys, i wanna go as fast as possible, and still remain drivable.
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Originally posted by BackInBlack86
sure, i'll go along with being able to crank the ac, and the tunes, and enjoy the car, that's understandable. but wouldnt it be alot more fun to drive if you were able to get more than a few miles to a tank of gas? when you get into the power issue, more is better, right? so why waste it toting around a bunch of stereo equipment? more power will make you go faster, just the same as less weight will. i dont know about you guys, i wanna go as fast as possible, and still remain drivable.
sure, i'll go along with being able to crank the ac, and the tunes, and enjoy the car, that's understandable. but wouldnt it be alot more fun to drive if you were able to get more than a few miles to a tank of gas? when you get into the power issue, more is better, right? so why waste it toting around a bunch of stereo equipment? more power will make you go faster, just the same as less weight will. i dont know about you guys, i wanna go as fast as possible, and still remain drivable.
while they arnt totally mutually exclucive, you cant say more MPG because of less weight in one sentance and then swap over to max power in the next...
if you were truly concerned about the extra MPG on the street you were loosing from 100lbs of stereo equipment, i suggest you start driving a bit slower on the street.
#41
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the point i was trying to make is sure, you can make up for the added weight with more motor. i've got a friend with a 638ci big block in his truck. and yes, it is street driven. he doesn't drive it very far, because generally when you get into the power levels generally associated with an engine that big, it becomes unstreetable. i'd rather go 12.00 with a NA small block and be able to drive it 200 mi if i want to without fear of it breaking,running out of gas, etc. than i would to run 11.00 with a big block car that was totally unstreetable.
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Originally posted by BackInBlack86
the point i was trying to make is sure, you can make up for the added weight with more motor. i've got a friend with a 638ci big block in his truck. and yes, it is street driven. he doesn't drive it very far, because generally when you get into the power levels generally associated with an engine that big, it becomes unstreetable. i'd rather go 12.00 with a NA small block and be able to drive it 200 mi if i want to without fear of it breaking,running out of gas, etc. than i would to run 11.00 with a big block car that was totally unstreetable.
the point i was trying to make is sure, you can make up for the added weight with more motor. i've got a friend with a 638ci big block in his truck. and yes, it is street driven. he doesn't drive it very far, because generally when you get into the power levels generally associated with an engine that big, it becomes unstreetable. i'd rather go 12.00 with a NA small block and be able to drive it 200 mi if i want to without fear of it breaking,running out of gas, etc. than i would to run 11.00 with a big block car that was totally unstreetable.
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Originally posted by BackInBlack86
the point i was trying to make is sure, you can make up for the added weight with more motor. i've got a friend with a 638ci big block in his truck. and yes, it is street driven. he doesn't drive it very far, because generally when you get into the power levels generally associated with an engine that big, it becomes unstreetable. i'd rather go 12.00 with a NA small block and be able to drive it 200 mi if i want to without fear of it breaking,running out of gas, etc. than i would to run 11.00 with a big block car that was totally unstreetable.
the point i was trying to make is sure, you can make up for the added weight with more motor. i've got a friend with a 638ci big block in his truck. and yes, it is street driven. he doesn't drive it very far, because generally when you get into the power levels generally associated with an engine that big, it becomes unstreetable. i'd rather go 12.00 with a NA small block and be able to drive it 200 mi if i want to without fear of it breaking,running out of gas, etc. than i would to run 11.00 with a big block car that was totally unstreetable.
get some crazy overdrive though, put FI with a hwy mode on it, and you could still cruise the country with a big block...
anyhoo my point was, with a car you do drive all the time for your enjoyment, dont take way from that enjoyment for somthing that will have minimal gain..
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Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
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IMO a true 500hp 355 N/A is not streetable. To obtain those kind of numbers you are going to need some big heads, big solid roller, big stall 4000+stall and some deep gears, 4.10+. IMO that is not streetable, but thats just me. Yes its easier with a bigger engine. My 400 should have 450-500 with a good tune. My car is very very streetable, I love it and it runs 7.8's with some serious traction issues. It's a very streeable 11 second car. I have a 2800 9.5 conveter, 3.23 gears, OD, hydraulic roller and 220cc heads. I could drive the car anywhere given if I had enough money for gas
My friend has a 455, same cam, same gears, same stall, no OD with mildy ported stock heads and he runs 7'6's right now on ET streets compared to me running on radials. His car is streetable but not as because he has no OD. We trap the same MPH in the 1/8(90.4)and we think I will be faster than him after I get some suspension work done, and even more so if I put slicks on my car. He has a bigger engine but I have alot better heads, after he gets his Cauffman heads this spring I am gonna have to spray it to keep up with him.
Streetable is a very realitve term and it depends on who you ask, there are several 9-10second cars that drive on the street here in town. Just depends on what you think streetable is.
My friend has a 455, same cam, same gears, same stall, no OD with mildy ported stock heads and he runs 7'6's right now on ET streets compared to me running on radials. His car is streetable but not as because he has no OD. We trap the same MPH in the 1/8(90.4)and we think I will be faster than him after I get some suspension work done, and even more so if I put slicks on my car. He has a bigger engine but I have alot better heads, after he gets his Cauffman heads this spring I am gonna have to spray it to keep up with him.
Streetable is a very realitve term and it depends on who you ask, there are several 9-10second cars that drive on the street here in town. Just depends on what you think streetable is.
#45
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streetable is all a state of mind to start with.....but let me put it this way.....
my 383 makes about 500hp at the flywheel (410 at the wheels)
it has a huge cam in it......630 lift, and 308 deg duration (.248@.050)....i just started it an hour ago, its 20 deg outside.....it started on the first kick and idled on its own with no babysitting....and it idles fine all the time at about 750rpm
driveability is good, excellent throttle response...obviously gas mileage isnt great but whatever...carbed with a race demon 750, its not a toyota prius.
it has enough vacuum at idle to run the power brakes no problem in traffic, and it rides ok.....runs a 12.3 @ 116.2
then on the otherside of the spectrum,
alot of you might already know who smitty is....he lives in my town, right up the street....and his 85 iroc runs 9.80's.....and is 3 times more streetable than my car...with a TPI 305 with a huge *** innovative ball bearing turbo.....this guy drives this thing to the track and runs 10's on pump gas.....puts in the race gas, cranks ths boost and hits 9's......then he drives it home with AC and power everything......it gets great mileage, and its quiet....you cant even hear the damn thing unless he jumps on it, save for the turbo whistle.
this is it:
http://www.tpi305.com
my 383 makes about 500hp at the flywheel (410 at the wheels)
it has a huge cam in it......630 lift, and 308 deg duration (.248@.050)....i just started it an hour ago, its 20 deg outside.....it started on the first kick and idled on its own with no babysitting....and it idles fine all the time at about 750rpm
driveability is good, excellent throttle response...obviously gas mileage isnt great but whatever...carbed with a race demon 750, its not a toyota prius.
it has enough vacuum at idle to run the power brakes no problem in traffic, and it rides ok.....runs a 12.3 @ 116.2
then on the otherside of the spectrum,
alot of you might already know who smitty is....he lives in my town, right up the street....and his 85 iroc runs 9.80's.....and is 3 times more streetable than my car...with a TPI 305 with a huge *** innovative ball bearing turbo.....this guy drives this thing to the track and runs 10's on pump gas.....puts in the race gas, cranks ths boost and hits 9's......then he drives it home with AC and power everything......it gets great mileage, and its quiet....you cant even hear the damn thing unless he jumps on it, save for the turbo whistle.
this is it:
http://www.tpi305.com
#46
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strange.... im actually building a big solid roller, 400 SBC right now..... complete with 4.10s... and its my daily driver. the whole whopping 2.7 miles to work and back
how funny is that? you hit it right on the head.
how funny is that? you hit it right on the head.
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Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Another thing to point out, if one is going for maximum umph pending the power to weight ratio, I truly think that this 3rd gen platform would be one of the last chasis to pick, as much as I hate to say it, when I do make a track only vehicle my car of choice is definately a LX Rustang, small, very light and really dont look that bad IMO-chevy motor/trans however. I like these cars and they have one heck of a following, but for a race only platform, unless you gut and cut it's just a pretty boat anchor with not much hope of lightening up unless you break out the debit/credit card, torch, and willing to sacrifice about everything to help lighten these hogs up.
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Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
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Originally posted by MrDude_1
strange.... im actually building a big solid roller, 400 SBC right now..... complete with 4.10s... and its my daily driver. the whole whopping 2.7 miles to work and back
how funny is that? you hit it right on the head.
strange.... im actually building a big solid roller, 400 SBC right now..... complete with 4.10s... and its my daily driver. the whole whopping 2.7 miles to work and back
how funny is that? you hit it right on the head.
#49
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if you care about gas mileage.....get a new hobby.....and buy a honda insight
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Car: 77 K20 80 K2500 93 C2500 94 K1500
Engine: 350 350 454 350
Transmission: 350 465 80E 60E
Axle/Gears: 4.10 3.73 5.13 3.73
guys, i think you're reading me a little wrong here. i never said that i was concerned with getting any kind of fuel economy, that's not the point of a performance car. i just think that to fully enjoy a car you should be able to drive it more than a 1/4 mi and back before you have to refill the tank.