Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

pedal is rock hard and no matter how hard i press the pedal if feels only like my rear brakes are working. after "braking" them in they feel worse then stock. Heck after a long drive i was able to touch my calipers and rotros without getting burned. They were just warm?? any clues?

PF Flyer

... could be you'll need to 'bench bleed' the master cylinder.

Andy Fanshawe

iTrader: (1)

Don't take this the wrong way, but,....did you use hydraulic flexible pipe clamps on the front when the calipers were changed? And, did you remove them?!!!

I did this a few years ago! Left the piggin' things on!!

Loosen the bleed nipples off at the front, one at a time and see if fluid comes out when the pedal is pressed. If it isn't a healthy squirt then either the flexibles are blocked or the proportioning valve is stuck to one side. Is the brake warning light on?
How did you bleed the system out? Was the proportioning valve changed also?

I would have thought if the m/c needed bench bleeding, the pedal would be soft.

Are the pistons nice and free in the calipers? What about the sliders?!!!

Hope this is of some help.
Andy.

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

ehhhhh??????????

Morley

Clamps that you use to squeeze the rubber hoses so when you remove the caliper all your brake fluid doesn't end up on the ground.

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

I got rid of the brake lines and all, they were replaced byt the SS lines form baer

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

if I read what you said right the rears work but the fronts really don't the pedal is hard. do the rears lock up if you want? I think it could be a stuck porp. valve. other wise the banjo bolts may not be right not allowing enough fluid to flow. alot of times a good bleading job will free it up again.

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

I cant lockl my brakes at all. Before and after the swap. Nothing ever locked up. It seems to be getting better. I amde a few hard stops after 4 days of driving and I can smell the brakes after a hard stop, like someting i s burning off.

Chickenman35

What are you using for pads? They probably aren't bedded in yet. Racing pads in particular need a specific procedure to bed the pads before full retardation can be expected. Street pads will take some time to bed in as well, although generally not as critical ( bedding procedure that is ) as racing pads. New rotors need bedding in as well. Give it some time. Put some more miles and hard stops on them.

With racing pads or Premium Metallic or Carbon street pads, a good procedure is to do several ( 4 to 6 ) hard 60mph to 20mph stops in a row. Drive the car without stopping to let brakes cool and then repeat two more times. You need to get the brake pads stinking hot ( That's the burning smell ) then let them cool. DO NOT at ANY time stop and leave your foot on the brake pedal!!! Or stop and apply the parking brake. Sure way to warp the rotors and\or produce hot spots on the rotors.

The smell that you observe is called " outgassing " . It is the resins and binders that are being burned off during the initial " Bedding " of the pads.

BTW, Bendix Titanium pads do not require a bedding period , They have a special Titanium coating that scours the rotor, removing old " buildup". The Titanium also initially raises the temperature of the pads so that the pads are properly bedded during normal driving in a very short period. The TI coating wears off in a short time, leaving perfectly bedded pads and rotors. An excellant pad for every day use, high performance street use and Autocross.