1LE proportioning valve question
08-04-2003, 08:02 PM
#1
1LE proportioning valve question
Working up to doing the swap on my Formula from drum to disc brakes out back. I've got a Borg Warner 9 bolt from an 88 T/A and I'm about committed to doing the recall kit on a set of reman calipers since the ones that came on the rear are scrap metal and I'm going to hold off on the PBRs until I can do a complete f/r brake upgrade. I also got the complete master cylinder with booster and prop valve from the same car and after a few searches I have a couple of questions. First,since my car is a 90 model, can I just swap to a disc/disc prop valve with the 88 rear or will I have to swap the entire master cylinder? Second, can I use the 1LE prop valve for a 90-92 car or will I have to get a 1LE valve for a J65 (88 model) car? Anyone with any good solid advice to help make these brakes work and work correctly chime in.
08-04-2003, 08:41 PM
#2
Supreme Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,771
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
10 Posts
Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
You should be Ok just using the Proportioning Valve from the 88
9-bolt set up. Thats all I used when I went to a 9-bolt Disc rear on my 87.
9-bolt set up. Thats all I used when I went to a 9-bolt Disc rear on my 87.
Last edited by DJP87Z28; 04-17-2006 at 01:31 PM.
08-04-2003, 09:26 PM
#3
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
The pre'89 1LE valve will NOT work in your car- the thread pitch to the brake hardlines are different. You need the post'89 1LE valve with the proper threads.
08-05-2003, 06:53 AM
#5
Supreme Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,771
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
10 Posts
Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Originally posted by AGood2.8
The pre'89 1LE valve will NOT work in your car- the thread pitch to the brake hardlines are different. You need the post'89 1LE valve with the proper threads.
The pre'89 1LE valve will NOT work in your car- the thread pitch to the brake hardlines are different. You need the post'89 1LE valve with the proper threads.
08-05-2003, 08:05 AM
#6
08-05-2003, 09:23 AM
#7
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by DJP87Z28
If you are talking about the change from SAE to Metric brake line fittings, It was changed before 1988.
If you are talking about the change from SAE to Metric brake line fittings, It was changed before 1988.
Trending Topics
08-05-2003, 08:25 PM
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Hey Mike. You are fine with the master, they are all the same from '90 on up.
The Prop valve you need is:
P/N 10136840 1990-'92: M1.5 tube nut threads.
Mine was $55 shipped from Dal at VanDevere. His number is 877-448-5451
fax 330-658-4065.
More info and complete 1LE part numbers are on Dan Burke's site here:
http://ws6transam.org/1LEbrake.html#1LEfront
Ed
The Prop valve you need is:
P/N 10136840 1990-'92: M1.5 tube nut threads.
Mine was $55 shipped from Dal at VanDevere. His number is 877-448-5451
fax 330-658-4065.
More info and complete 1LE part numbers are on Dan Burke's site here:
http://ws6transam.org/1LEbrake.html#1LEfront
Ed
08-05-2003, 08:41 PM
#10
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
I believe the number that 1991z posted is correct (#10164112). I think GM has fairly recently changed the part #'s on the valves and the older article that ebmiller quoted on is outdated.
08-06-2003, 07:17 AM
#11
08-06-2003, 08:15 AM
#12
Thanks for the help guys. Here's the plan so far: get a pair of reman calipers,rebuild them with the recall kit,get the 1LE prop valve,new hard lines and Earl's SS lines,new pads,etc. You guys think this will give me a good set of brakes until I can afford to throw the Baer catalog at it?
08-06-2003, 08:42 AM
#14
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Sorry Mike, I don't have any pics of my old setup that you'd need. I think a good properly working brake system will be fine to hold you over. My RS stopped great with the stock disc/drum setup when I replaced everything, I could lock the fronts easy.
Have you considered going with the C4 or C5 front brake setups instead of Baer? I admit they make great stuff, but for the money you can have the C4 fronts and PBR rears and have the same brake system for a LOT less money. If looks are a consideration, have the calipers powdercoated.
You can take my RS for a spin when I see you next to see how they feel.
Ed
Have you considered going with the C4 or C5 front brake setups instead of Baer? I admit they make great stuff, but for the money you can have the C4 fronts and PBR rears and have the same brake system for a LOT less money. If looks are a consideration, have the calipers powdercoated.
You can take my RS for a spin when I see you next to see how they feel.
Ed
08-06-2003, 05:54 PM
#16
Supreme Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: The State of Hockey
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Just get an adjustable valve per the tech article on this site and be done with it.... All of the stock proportioning valves pale in comparison to something that is infinitely (well.....) adjustable.... You can constantly adapt the rear brakes to things like weather conditions (that effect heat) and different pad materials....
I love mine and highly recommend it. The valve goes for around $35 from places like Summit and the required fittings and a decent double flare kit will probably cost you another $30-50 depending on your "hook-ups"
, so it's not like it costs a ton of money to do this.....
This valve (I have the Wilwood one) was worth its weight in gold the last time I was at BIR.... I had Wilwood Bs on the front (absolutely like nothing I have EVER felt before with stock 10.5" rotors) and PFC Zs in the rear (4th gen 11.9" PBRs) and lets just say I put nearly full line pressure to the rears just to get them to do SOMETHING.....
I love mine and highly recommend it. The valve goes for around $35 from places like Summit and the required fittings and a decent double flare kit will probably cost you another $30-50 depending on your "hook-ups"
, so it's not like it costs a ton of money to do this.....This valve (I have the Wilwood one) was worth its weight in gold the last time I was at BIR.... I had Wilwood Bs on the front (absolutely like nothing I have EVER felt before with stock 10.5" rotors) and PFC Zs in the rear (4th gen 11.9" PBRs) and lets just say I put nearly full line pressure to the rears just to get them to do SOMETHING.....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
