Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Balljoint removal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-19-2003, 02:05 PM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
colonboy14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Balljoint removal

OK, I rented a balljoint press from Autozone (the big C-clamp), but I can't get it to work. It seems like the whole clamp is too short to reach all the way around the balljoint. Can anybody give me better directions than those that are on the back of the box?

Oh, and I used the biggest acceptor ring or whatever. Is that what I'm supposed to do?
Old 06-19-2003, 05:56 PM
  #2  
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
colonboy14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
anybody?
Old 06-19-2003, 06:21 PM
  #3  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
slowTA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
I rented the autozone one also... it worked great for me.

From what I remember you may have to turn it upside down to get the balljoint out. So the bolt might be sticking down to remove it and up to install it. But I can't remember EXACTLY how that worked for me.

What I can say is that you do not push on the threaded part of the ball joint. You have to use the large collar on the bottom of the control arm so that it goes around the pocket for the joint.

The non threaded end of the c-clamp may be large enough to go around the stud of the ball joint without one of the adapter/spacers. I think it rested right on the body of the ball joint.

I know this sounds confusing, but it wasn't obvious right away to me either.
Old 06-19-2003, 07:15 PM
  #4  
Junior Member

 
prockbp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 1992 TPI 350
Transmission: 1989 T5
Axle/Gears: 1992 10 Bolt Rear w/ 3.42 gearing
i had the same problem... the stud is just too darn long, cut it!


i used a dremel tool to cut about a half an inch off the top of the balljoint stud... and then i smoothed the threads out so the stud would fit into the little hole in the balljoint press plate....

works great if you do this..


if you don't understand what i'm talking about.. then email me and i'll give you my phone number and i can explain it better

joshua_kirby@hotmail.com
Old 06-19-2003, 07:48 PM
  #5  
Member
 
Hung Start67's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: redneck central
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bro...I rented the press/removal tool from autozone as well. When I first got started it looked like the press would not work..But stick with it..If they gave you the right part it will work. when you go to press them in have fun..It was kinda tough I used my foot and a 7/8 wrench to cut new threads with the moog ball joints I bought. When I had my car aligned I told the guy that it was a PITA putting in the new balljoints..He told me next time..use a air gun on that sucker!! stick with it bro..you can do it.
Old 06-19-2003, 07:49 PM
  #6  
Supreme Member

 
mrr23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: orlando, fl usa
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
or don't use one.

http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/balljointreplacement.html
Old 06-19-2003, 07:51 PM
  #7  
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
colonboy14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
WHOOOOOOO DOGGEY!!!!!! I got it!!! And it was so easy.

Ok, for those of you who will be reading this in the future, here is what you do to get them off easily.

Arrange the clamp so that the threaded part is on the bottom, followed by the disk with the SMALL hole, then the largest spacer. (I know the instructions say to put the one with the large hole on the bottom ... don't.) This goes onto the bottom of the balljoint, and the disk with the large hole goes on the top. The stud will stick through the hole, and the disk will push right on the ball itself, not the stud. Just tighten her down, and it takes like 30 seconds.

Just make sure you use a 2' breaker bar at least.
Attached Thumbnails Balljoint removal-bjremoval.gif  
Old 06-19-2003, 07:53 PM
  #8  
Junior Member

 
prockbp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 1992 TPI 350
Transmission: 1989 T5
Axle/Gears: 1992 10 Bolt Rear w/ 3.42 gearing
hehe.. i think it's an easy job... getting them in takes patience, you need to have them lined up really well(use lots of lube!), even then you may end up having to back the ball joint back out and do it again

i actually got to a point where i could not make the new ball joint press all the way in.. i just let it sit with pressure on it for a while and it slid into place


when you're pressing those new joints in with a 2foot breaker bar... you start worry about the strength of that autozone ball joint press
that's the only thing that caused me any stress
Old 06-19-2003, 08:06 PM
  #9  
Junior Member

 
prockbp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 1992 TPI 350
Transmission: 1989 T5
Axle/Gears: 1992 10 Bolt Rear w/ 3.42 gearing

wow, that's like some kind of a joke..... i can live with the way they uninstalled the ball joint...

but there wasn't a whole lot of thought put into the safety of installing them...... and no thought put into damaging the control arm...

when you care that little about your car.. why even waste time reaplacing the ball joints?
Old 06-20-2003, 09:50 AM
  #10  
Supreme Member

 
TomP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Central NJ, USA
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Glad you got it, colonboy! I just did this to my 250,000 mile firebird; I bought the OTC balljoint press, and it worked great. The sucker popped out with no problem. I was so glad to see that the opening in my control arm wasn't oblong or misformed or in any way f'd up. Haven't pressed the new ones in yet... bought Moog K6145T's from Summitracing.com (MOG-K6145T).
Old 06-20-2003, 04:58 PM
  #11  
Supreme Member

 
mrr23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: orlando, fl usa
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Originally posted by prockbp
wow, that's like some kind of a joke..... i can live with the way they uninstalled the ball joint...

but there wasn't a whole lot of thought put into the safety of installing them...... and no thought put into damaging the control arm...

when you care that little about your car.. why even waste time replacing the ball joints?
there was plenty of thought in safety while installing them skippy. ever see a ball joint press fly apart? less safety there than doing it my way. if you can damage a control arm by hitting it with a hammer, then it would just break apart everytime you hit a pothole. i do this for a living.
Old 06-20-2003, 06:38 PM
  #12  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
slowTA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
I don't see how a ball joint press could fly apart, please explain how.

I would think it is more dangerous to use the sledge hammer method because of the spring too. I saw how you were supporting the car on that lift, but with jackstands I wouldn't want to try it that way. My control arms were completely off of the car at the time, so I clamped them to a workbench.
Old 06-20-2003, 06:44 PM
  #13  
Supreme Member

 
mrr23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: orlando, fl usa
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
ok rephrase ever see a ball joint press shatter? or slip off the ball joint? if your control arms were off the car, then using a ball joint press is the better choice. or still just support the control arm and hit the ball joint into place.
Old 06-20-2003, 06:55 PM
  #14  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
slowTA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
No, I haven't actually seen one of them fail. But I can picture it shattering, causing someone to fall if they are putting alot of pressure on it. As for slipping off, I would think that they would have to be pushing/pulling the threaded part instead of trying to twist it. So in other words, using a wrench completely wrong. The one I used seemed to have some really good steps or indentations to keep from slipping. But I think using pitchforks to seperate the joints is caveman-like, so of course I'm not going to like the sledgehammer method.
Old 06-20-2003, 07:00 PM
  #15  
Supreme Member

 
mrr23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: orlando, fl usa
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
not all will like the caveman method. but for those without the use of airtools (air hammer to separate the balljoint from the spindle) and doesn't want to pay to have it done, this is an alternative. so long as you support the arm with a jack, then use the bottle jack to put pressure on the ball joint, the spring will not come out. if the bottlejack was to come out, the first jack under the arm will catch it. no way the spring will propel the arm down with enough force to lift the car up and pop out. but a safety thing you can do is wrap a chain through the arm and around the spring. that way it can't go anywhere.
Old 06-20-2003, 07:07 PM
  #16  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
slowTA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
I didn't use air tools to remove or install mine. Just a longish box-end wrench.
Old 06-21-2003, 02:06 AM
  #17  
Supreme Member

 
TomP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Central NJ, USA
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Same here; I have air tools, but I use a regular balljoint pickle fork to separate the knuckle from the balljoint. Used a breaker bar and 24mm socket on my balljoint press.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GeneralIesrussi
Carburetors
6
06-20-2024 07:21 PM
HP52TA
Interior
8
02-03-2018 10:51 PM
ctoledo0834
Interior
5
09-18-2015 04:16 PM
rb85TA
Organized Drag Racing and Autocross
26
09-14-2015 10:29 PM
Stroopwafel
Tech / General Engine
7
09-11-2015 06:38 AM



Quick Reply: Balljoint removal



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:32 PM.