TomP

So I ordered all my suspension stuff, except for the springs, from Summit last week. They came in Friday, and the box for the center link was a little beat up... a threaded end was poking out. No big deal, I figured, I'll just spin the castellated nut on to make sure the threads are okay. No big deal; it's a suspension part meant to take hard roads, not a chrome valvecover or anything.

So I open the box and the hardware bag was apparently slit open by the threads of the center link. A castellated nut was just rolling around in the box by itself. Two other nuts (that don't fit the threads) were also in the box, and, the worst part, no grease fittings!!

So are these grease fittings available at a local store? I don't know if I need to get ones that are self-cutting threads, or ones that are meant for threaded holes. It looks like the Moog link is threaded, but I can't be sure.

Think I should just return the thing to Summit for a new one? That's what I'm leaning towards. But I want to do the suspension this upcoming weekend; it seems rather idiotic to send back a center link just because there were no grease fittings. I'd rather drop $1 or $2 for two of them locally- BUT I want to get the right ones.

Any ideas? Thanks!!

Oh and what are the felt washers for in the hardware bag? Do they go over the studs between the center link & idler arm/pittman arm?

RB83L69

Yup, you can get zerk fittings at almost any parts store or hardware store, even Home Depot or Auto Zone. Take the part with you so you can pick the right thread as they come in several sizes.

The washers go over the studs that go into the idler & Pitman arms, before you put the stud into the other part.

Don't forget Cotter pins, if they're missing.

TomP

Thanks for the quick response, RB! So you think the center link is definately threaded for grease fittings? What do you think the chances are that the fittings in the other boxes (tie rod ends and idler arm and balljoints) are the same as the one in the center link? I could drag one of those along, too. And yep, I forgot the cotter pins... I have a bunch of new ones in the garage, but that's one other bit missing from the bag.

I think the extra "won't fit the threads" nuts were probably from another box with a hole in it, and someone thought they came from this box.

Thanks for the info on the washers; my Helms didn't mention them.

War_Eagle

Tom, you mentioned your helms. I am considering buying one of those manuals, are they pretty detailed? what exactly do they cover? and do you feel like there worth it? sorry about all the questions but not many people to ask about them. thanks in advance.......

TomP

They are 100% worth it; no f-body owner should be without one!! You won't believe how much stuff is in there compared to a Haynes or Chilton!! You can't even compare the two; Helms/GM is in it's own class. I've had mine since I bought my firebird, back in 1994, with 65,000 miles on it (now at 250,000).

MartinCadek

autozone has the fittings in the section where their grease stuff is (usually way back in the corner).

PS: TDS sells grease fitting caps , I bought them and they are the best thing ever (cheap as hell to , only a few bucks).

TomP

I just don't know if the Moog needs self-cutting or "regular" threaded fittings. Unless they're all self-cutting. I actually need another set of tie rod ends (I only bought one part # of each because the http://www.federalmogul.com online catalog said "two per" next to the tie rod part #s... I guess they meant two per car should be installed, not "two ends in the box". ), so I think I'll just order another center link, and send the original back.

Seems like the safest route. There shouldn't have been a hole in that damn box anyway.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Yep, what they said. Get new grease fittings at AZ, HD, or Lowe's. They come in a pack of 5 or so so you'll have extras when you loose them again...he heh


Ed

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Check to see if they fit the tie rod ends. They are included in case you need to cut the old ones off.

They may also be a deformed thread lock nut. Don't need to use cotter pins if so.

As you are doing the whole thing, don't even need to separate the tie rods & idler arm from the center link. Just leave it whole then use it as a model for the new stuff.

RBob.

TomP

I'll have to hit Home Depot tonight.. can't believe they sell grease fittings! I guess for lawn tractors? That's funny.

I'll give those nuts a closer look; they didn't even spin two-threads-worth onto the center link, though. Is that -safe- though, to not have a cotter pin? These don't even have the castellations...

Hey is it also safe (ha) to put anti-sieze on the threads of my new LCA bolts/nuts? The nuts are the locking ones with the crushed ends... but I'd rather drop $51 again at the dealer for new ones then chance losing an LCA bolt... yikes.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Yep, use the anti-seize stuff. I use stuff called Moly-Kote. It's good up to around 500-600* F and won't let stuff loosen up, just makes it easier when you have to take it off. I use that stuff everywhere.

"Deformed" thread locknuts don't have castellations, they look bent from the top and deform to hold themselves on the bolt. They are good, I got them with my stuff too.


Ed