can't remove front struts
#1
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Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 288
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From: Connecticut
Car: 91' Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: WC T5
can't remove front struts
those things are stuck on there good....i removed the upper strut bolt but the steering knuckle bolts are impossible, i took it to the shop and asked them how much they would charge to just swap the new ones in for me and they said $120....thats a little steep! how the hell can i get those loose...i dont own a lift so its hard gettin at the bolts from underneath...any ideas?
#2
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
funny..usually its the other way around. Most everyone has a hell of a time getting the top nut off. For the two lower bolts, use a vice-grip on the rear nut and position it so that it will wedge against something while you turn the bolt in front. Use a bigger torque wrench. If that doesn't work, and you don't know anyone w/ air tools, take it to a shop and have them break the bolt free w/ an air tool, hand tighten them, put your wheels back on, drive it home and then continue.
#3
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
Oh jeez!!!! I nearly forgot: While your car is on jack stands, use a hydraulic jack under your control arms, just beneathe where the springs sit. Jack it up a few inches to take most of the pressure off those bolts. Then retry it. Be careful after you remove the strut bolts; your hydraulic jack will be the only thing preventing those control arms from slamming down and your springs flying out under tremndous pressure.
#4
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Duncan, OK USA
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: LG-4 305
Transmission: 5-speed
Try some penetrant & let soak a while, & then just grit your teeth & strain.
Just before I did mine last year, a friend mentioned it was real hard for one person to do it.
I managed it, but I would recommend leaving the top nut on except loose until you break both of the knuckle nuts loose.l
Just before I did mine last year, a friend mentioned it was real hard for one person to do it.
I managed it, but I would recommend leaving the top nut on except loose until you break both of the knuckle nuts loose.l
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 288
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From: Connecticut
Car: 91' Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: WC T5
heh, my shop teacher loosened them, hes a pretty big guy...then i just took it home and did them myself...no penetrating oil required...and only took me 30 minutes to do...not bad for just a jack and some jack stands
#6
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Did you hit any curbs? I had a hell of a time removing a strut bolt from my knuckle- I bent the knuckle on a curb. Finally got the bolt out by hammering it out- when it was out, I rolled the bolt on the garage floor- it was bent.
Although- the nut came off easily... you couldn't budge either. Nevermind!
Although- the nut came off easily... you couldn't budge either. Nevermind!
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#8
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 189
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From: Calhoun, Georgia, USA
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: Code "H" LG4
Transmission: 700R4
I had the same experience as the one who started thsi post. Top bolts all too easy. Used a pipe over a 1/2" wrench and all my weight to break the bottoms loose.
#10
I used a 1/2" breaker bar and a socket with a 4 foot piece of pipe for an extension, thats what it took to get mine off, it was a PITA. I broke 2 ratchets and a breaker bar. it was worth it though, feels like a new car.
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