Acidtalons

Gentlemen, I did a search on seperating a ball joint and tried the techniques mentioned, none have worked.

I am in the process for replacing my springs, ball joints and motor mounts and my drivers side spindle in massively stuck to the ball joint.

Currently the only thing connected to the spindle is the ball joint, the strut and steering linkage are both disconnected. Attempted hammering a pickle fork under the spindle without sucess. Also repeatedly beat on the spindle with a 5lb sledge. The ball joint remains connected to the spindle.

Anyone have any other idea before I take a die grinder to the ball joint?

Dans_Zed

Spray in some Releasall and keep your sledge hammer handy. Try alternating hits on the spindle area surrounding the ball joint and also on the protruding stud of the balljoint. It may take some time but it will work.

(I mention hammering the stud as well, only because you said that you are changing your balljoints, otherwise it is of course a big no no if you are re-using them). Additionally if the assembly is not secured either on the car or in a bench vise you do not stand such a good chance of seperating the two parts.

I usually loosen (not remove) the nut for the ball joint followed by healthy hits to the spindle. This has always worked for me.

Good luck!

ede

heat the area where the stud goes into the spindle.

Steve89GTA

I need to change my ball joints soon too.
Why does everyone loosen but don't remove the ball joint nut.
i don't understand how this helps at all.
Also, I remember reading once that a pickle fork was not necessary and that you can pound on the top of the ball-joint downwards to get it out...

A little confused...

Dans_Zed

"Everyone" loosens but does not remove the ball joint nut because besides the strut and the sway bar end link the ball joint is the only thing keeping the control arm from dropping to the floor and the coil spring flying out in your face/crotch. (Always loosely attach the coil spring to the car with a steel chain to prevent such accidents when removing the lower ball joint or strut)

Another reason would apply only if you are re-using the ball joint and it is to protect the threads from damage made by a missed hit with a hammer. You can wack the s**t out of the ball joint stud if you are NOT re-using it and are only say for example changing coil springs only.

I can only say from personal experience that hittting the area of the spindle that surrounds the ball joint stud has always worked best for me, mostly because there is better access to get a good swing at it as compared to the less accesssible area around the ball joint stud.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

I completely remove the nut and place a floor jack a couple inches underneath the control arm. The floor jack will prevent the control arm from falling far enough to eject the spring.

flyway190

I think I used a C-clamp and one of the extensions from a ball joint press.

BretD 88GTA

The pickle fork is the best tool for the job.

Keeping the nut on the ball joint prevents the spring from unloading and speeding the A-arm toward the ground or any body parts that may be in the way. Many years ago, while working on a front susepnsion, I forgot and completely removed the nut. I also forgot to have my floor jack positioned under the A-arm (haste makes waste). As soon as I cracked the ball joint from the spindle, the assembly promptly whacked me right in the knee. Not a pleasant experience. That's the last time I forgot to practice the correct safety procedures.

wm_sorg

I have also seen a tool that looks like a gear puller that can be used in place of the fork.

Breadfan

air hammer pickle fork , be out in seconds

vjo90RS8

iTrader: (1)

ball joint separator tool and a large hammer, BEAT THE HELL OUT OF THAT THING!!!!!! Thats what me and my friend had to do when we installed new springs, struts, A arm bushings and ball joints this past summer.

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

I just separated one laying in the mud in the back area of a junkyard using a generic parts store pickle fork and a 5 lb. mini-sledge. It shouldn't be that hard to separate. One thing that seemed to help when I did it was to have the spindle still attached to the strut. This will hold the spindle steady while you separate the lower control arm and ball joint from it. If you have the spindle disconnected from the lower part of the strut, it allows it to flop all around, making it difficult to get the fork wedged between the control arm and the ball joint decently. Also, make sure if you are using a separator fork that it's a ball joint one, and not the one for tie rod ends. The tie rod fork is narrower and won't work. The only method I've used that's never, ever failed me on really stubborn ones is to use an air hammer with a blunt shank attachment right on the top of the ball joint stud. Once again, leave the nut on the stud just a few threads as this will act as a centering device for the air hammer tip. It sounds like you're replacing the ball joint anyways, so it shouldn't matter if you do it this way. Good luck!

ede

a very long time ago i was a front end mechanic and the whole time doing that as well at home i doubt if i ever hit a pickle fork over 6 times before it seperated. with air hammer it's more like a few seconds and no effort at all.

Hellraiser

I do this on a daily basis, on all sorts of vehicles using (most of the time) your average $10 pickle fork tool. It sounds to me like you just need a bigger hammer. Remember - SHOW NO MERCY! when removing things your going to replace, just haul off and hit them hard. It will give up eventually! =)

Acidtalons

Finally got it off today with the help of a friend, a pickle fork and a 10 lb sledge hammer (took about 10 hits). Probably was the original ball joint from 1986 cause it was stuck on there good.

I tried for about a half hour on saturday with a 5lb sledge and the pickle for but it wouldn't budge.