What to do first?
#1
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Car: 87 Pontiac GTA, 03 Audi A4, 05 Volv
Engine: ZZ4 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.27
What to do first?
I was planning on having sfc installed, and then attempt to lower with the Eibach prokit, and install new shocks, struts, panhard and lca relocation brackets. A mechanic told me to lower the car first and get the suspension/geometry completed prior to installing the sfc. Is this true? I would like to just have the sfc installed and then lowered. Any comments?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
i don't know what SFC's and suspension geomitry have to do with each other.
installing subframes won't alter or effect the geomitry one bit.
installing subframes won't alter or effect the geomitry one bit.
#3
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I wouldnt put too much trust in what that mechanic says. SFC's are the first thing you should do, period. They are completely independent from the suspension system (SFC's attach to the chassis). The only consideration you need to make when planning to install SFC's is your exhaust setup, and this is primarily because of clearance issues. Have your exhaust work done BEFORE you do the SFC's and save yourself from pulling hair out later.
#5
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Car: 2007 Corvette Z06
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Probably lowering it first and driving for a little while (couple hundred miles) would be better, then put in the SFCs. W/o SFCs the chassis flexes a lot, after SFCs the chassis doesn't flex much anymore, that's why everyone says to weld the SFC with the car supported by the tires(or with suspension loaded), b/c once the SFC are in, the chassis will pretty much stay that way. And YES the chassis flexes/rests different on jack stands, than compared to on the tires (I lost 1/4+" b/w my radaitor supports during a 5 week period on jack stands, the rad. had to basically be hammered into place).
I doubt either way it will make that much difference unless you auto-X etc. and really push your car to the limits that you'll be able to tell the difference. I say listen to your mechanic if you want to do it "right".
I doubt either way it will make that much difference unless you auto-X etc. and really push your car to the limits that you'll be able to tell the difference. I say listen to your mechanic if you want to do it "right".
#6
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Car: 87 Pontiac GTA, 03 Audi A4, 05 Volv
Engine: ZZ4 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.27
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