what type saw blade to cut springs?
#1
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Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
what type saw blade to cut springs?
i was gonna use my jig saw to cut my springs but the blade i have wouldn't even nick it, it's a 14 tooth/inch blade and says it's for ferrous metals up to 1/4". the store also has 18 and 24 teeth/inch blades for non ferrous metals, which one should i get?
#5
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
The only EASY way is like raggedout91RS said.
Use a 4" cut-off wheel on a die grinder or an angle grinder.
I do hope you know that you SHOULD NOT USE HEAT!!!!!
You do know that right?
Use a 4" cut-off wheel on a die grinder or an angle grinder.
I do hope you know that you SHOULD NOT USE HEAT!!!!!
You do know that right?
#6
I just cut a pair of Moog 5664's with a die grinder style cutoff wheel. I didn't have a grinder, so I chucked it up in a drill, using a 1/4 inch, maybe 5/16 inch thick bolt, some washers, and a nut. I burned up two cheap ones from an auto store, so buy a decent one.
Aside from that, my hacksaw made some progress, slowly but surely. I'd figure maybe 20-30 minutes per spring with a hacksaw, if you're up to it.
I'm not sure if anyone else has had this problem,... When I put the new springs in, I couldn't keep the rubber top piece centered on them. I used three pieces of duct tape to hold it to the top of each coil. It seemed to make things a whole lot easier. I figure, a few grams of extra weight won't slow me down all that much .
Good luck with the spring swap
- Craig
Aside from that, my hacksaw made some progress, slowly but surely. I'd figure maybe 20-30 minutes per spring with a hacksaw, if you're up to it.
I'm not sure if anyone else has had this problem,... When I put the new springs in, I couldn't keep the rubber top piece centered on them. I used three pieces of duct tape to hold it to the top of each coil. It seemed to make things a whole lot easier. I figure, a few grams of extra weight won't slow me down all that much .
Good luck with the spring swap
- Craig
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 564
Likes: 2
From: Cathlamet, Washington
Car: 87 Formula
Engine: 327
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
You can use a torch.. but only if you submerge ALL of the part of the spring you wish to keep. This will keep the spring from changing temper. I did this on my stepside. Just put the spring in a 5 gal bucket.. filled it with water to where i wanted to cut it and torched it off.
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#9
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Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 2
From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
If you use an oxy-acetylene torch and cut the spring(don't melt it) correctly it should take only a second or two and very little heat will transfer into the rest of the spring. Water is a little extra insurance
Last edited by 82camaro; 01-06-2003 at 10:24 AM.
#10
i think some of u r misleading him on the water part. u can cut it with a torch let it air cool. this will insure u dont change the temper water will weaking the metal. this same topic is brought up all the time. i know i hate wen people tell me to do a search. i promise u will find tons f info.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 564
Likes: 2
From: Cathlamet, Washington
Car: 87 Formula
Engine: 327
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Water would weaken the metal if you were using it to quench a hot spring. Here we are using it to keep the spring from ever getting hot enough to change the metal at all. Same way as using a piece of welders clay as a heat sink on sheet metal to prevent warpage.
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